No start no crank
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No start no crank
Just my luck! Got everything fixed and tuned, the truck was starting up perfectly fine, running great, then boom! I was doing some final clean up work for the state inspection, got in it to start it and take it for a test drive and nothing happened expect for a grinding weering noise from the solenoid, which I replaced and now I'm not getting anything at all... It's an 85 F150 DSII manual trans, carbuerated 302. The only thing that happens when I turn the key is the brake light on the dash comes on. I'm going to test the starter tomorrow to see if I'm getting any juice down there since I need a helper for that, but i feel it would be making some sort of noise if it was the starter.... I'm also thinking clutch safety switch, but I tried jumping the posts on the solenoid with just the batery cables attached and I still wasn't getting anything... Any help is appreciated!
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From: Angier, NC
Ok let’s start at the batt. Does it have 12.6 volts at/on the batt not the cables? No volts, charge or change out batt.
If yes then test for volts on the cable ends. 1 at sol. Batt cable, the other on the engine block. If no volts clean the connections or better yet if old cables replace them and the 1 from sol to starter.
If you have volts but still no lights check the batt cable connection at the sol. Pull it off and clean it and the other wires there as I think there should be a wire or 2 on that same sol lug. IIRC the other wires are fuse able links that feed power to inside the truck. Check to see if the wires have power all the way up into the harness. I found on fuse able links if you bend them in an arch if blown it will not be a smooth arc it will have a sharp bend.
Now you can check the sol & starter without help just atest light and a starter button (jumper wire). If you have dash lights showing you have power to the truck remove the small wire on “S” lug of the sol. Put test light on this wire and the other end of light to ground. Turn key to start and the test light should light up showing power to the sol for start. If not you need to trace back why no power to the truck or bad IGN switch?
To test the sol & starter take a starter button or jumper wire going from the batt cable connection on the sol take the other end of the jumper wire and tap the “S” lug on the sol and if all is good the starter should engage and motor turn over.
If it will not turn over is the sol clicking? Take the testlight and go from the sol connection going to the starter and ground and jumpthe sol again – batt to “S” lug. The test light should light up if not replace sol. If yes bad cable to starter or bad starter.
That should cover about everything to find the cause of nocrank/start.
Dave ----
If yes then test for volts on the cable ends. 1 at sol. Batt cable, the other on the engine block. If no volts clean the connections or better yet if old cables replace them and the 1 from sol to starter.
If you have volts but still no lights check the batt cable connection at the sol. Pull it off and clean it and the other wires there as I think there should be a wire or 2 on that same sol lug. IIRC the other wires are fuse able links that feed power to inside the truck. Check to see if the wires have power all the way up into the harness. I found on fuse able links if you bend them in an arch if blown it will not be a smooth arc it will have a sharp bend.
Now you can check the sol & starter without help just atest light and a starter button (jumper wire). If you have dash lights showing you have power to the truck remove the small wire on “S” lug of the sol. Put test light on this wire and the other end of light to ground. Turn key to start and the test light should light up showing power to the sol for start. If not you need to trace back why no power to the truck or bad IGN switch?
To test the sol & starter take a starter button or jumper wire going from the batt cable connection on the sol take the other end of the jumper wire and tap the “S” lug on the sol and if all is good the starter should engage and motor turn over.
If it will not turn over is the sol clicking? Take the testlight and go from the sol connection going to the starter and ground and jumpthe sol again – batt to “S” lug. The test light should light up if not replace sol. If yes bad cable to starter or bad starter.
That should cover about everything to find the cause of nocrank/start.
Dave ----
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Hmmm... Bradley... For some reason I'm expecting to read about a heater.... LOL
A grinding noise would be coming from the start motor itself (and the flywheel.flexplate) and not the solenoid - but people's description of "grinding" can be open to interpretation.
BRAKE light comes on but nothing from the starter - you said you replaced the solenoid (relay) I'm wondering if you wired it correctly... it's the red/blue-stripe wire that gets power with the key in START... that wire connects to the S terminal on the solenoid, is it there? Do you have battery voltage at that red/blue wire with the key in START? Didn't I already go through this with you the past month or so?
Follow fuzzy's troubleshooting and let us know whatchya find....
A grinding noise would be coming from the start motor itself (and the flywheel.flexplate) and not the solenoid - but people's description of "grinding" can be open to interpretation.
BRAKE light comes on but nothing from the starter - you said you replaced the solenoid (relay) I'm wondering if you wired it correctly... it's the red/blue-stripe wire that gets power with the key in START... that wire connects to the S terminal on the solenoid, is it there? Do you have battery voltage at that red/blue wire with the key in START? Didn't I already go through this with you the past month or so?
Follow fuzzy's troubleshooting and let us know whatchya find....
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Haha Chris I meant to tell you I fixed the heater!! It was corroded terminals, cleaned em up, turned it on and got a face full of dust! But yeah, it's wired correctly, I'll post a picture tomorrow, if ya like! I actually went back and used that topic for reference! But I'll go through all of the troubleshooting in the a.m. And get back to yall, the thing I can say, unfortunatly my tester doesn't show down to the decimal, but it does show 12 volts at the batery, my tests didn't really go too far beyond that, but hopefully I can spot the problem! Thanks guys!
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Oh and it was definitely the solenoid making the noise, I originally thought starter, and tried the old hit it with a rubber mallet while someone turns the key, but realized it was coming from up above, got up there and it was coming from the solenoid, grinding might not be the right word, but it was a very hard sound to describe lol
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Alright, I did the tests, and... Well, when I did the tests with the key in the start position it started... Idk what I did, if there was a wire loose that I hit the right way, or if the solenoid is malfunctioning or what but it started, I took it for a drive down the road, and it being a manual and me being a stick shifting novice stalled it out, when I went to start it back up, it started but the starter didn't disengage! I switched it back out with a different solenoid and it seemed alright although by the time I was able to pull off a batery cable the batery was dead... When it's charged I'll post back!
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Ford explicitly states in the Owner's Manual to not run the starter for more than 30 seconds without stopping and letting it cool off.
Point being, you may have also burned out your starter motor (although it may still appear to sort-of operate).
If the solenoid sticks, beat on it with a solid object to un-stick it. Seriously.
Point being, you may have also burned out your starter motor (although it may still appear to sort-of operate).
If the solenoid sticks, beat on it with a solid object to un-stick it. Seriously.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
It sounds to me like the relay is sticking.
I have a friend who tried to jump-start his car when the fuel line was frozen; not knowing anything about cars, he kept the starter engaged for HALF AN HOUR! Sure, it still worked, but it got replaced when he finally got it taken to a shop.
You never said for how long you ran the thing but I nevertheless wanted to throw that out there, many people here don't have or bother to read the Owner's Manuals and aren't aware of this stuff....
I have a friend who tried to jump-start his car when the fuel line was frozen; not knowing anything about cars, he kept the starter engaged for HALF AN HOUR! Sure, it still worked, but it got replaced when he finally got it taken to a shop.
You never said for how long you ran the thing but I nevertheless wanted to throw that out there, many people here don't have or bother to read the Owner's Manuals and aren't aware of this stuff....
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See thats nuts, I know enough to not do that, I really don't know how long I left it running, but my immediate reaction was to try and make it stop, probably about 30 seconds it took me, if that. My owners manual is not in the best of shape! haha that's putting it lightly!
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