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When you consider the amount of time(labor cost or your own time) involved in replacing the actuator rod I would definitely go genuine Ford. The Ford part is only so good, but probably better than most of the generic brands.
funny, when i asked the counter guy at NAPA, he said they couldn't get the actuator rod. I have reason to trust him, he was the best man at my wedding.
So i stopped by the Ford dealer, i got a replacement ordered, $20. they do offer a "severe duty" one, made out of steel instead of aluminum, for $67.
ok gents, i finally got around to tearing into the column. I decided not to go the grinding route, and instead did the full disassembly to get the part in properly. However, i have run into some new issues.
First off, the truck will not start. I need to test the igniter wire, make sure i have power at the starter selonoid. i'll let you know what i find there.
Secondly, after jumping the starter solenoid to get the truck running, it refused to shift into gear. which further makes me wonder if something isnt right.
ok, after spending a few more minutes with this truck today, here is what i found out.
first off, the truck still wont start, but when i bypass the starter solenoid ( that button thingie is so cool!) then it gladly fires right up. Key promptly turns it off as well.
The key switch will move to all positions, or so it seems. i cannot verify that it is hitting the "start" position. hopefully i will get an assistant to help me check for power at the end of the igniter wire.
Secondly, the trucks shifter will shift into all positions, im not sure what i was seeing last night. However, the truck will only stay running while in park or Neutral, as soon as i slide the lever into neutral, the truck stalls out, like i just shut off the ignition switch. I ended up backing the truck into the shop this afternoon.
Anybody care to point me in the right direction? is the actual ignition switch ( located on the bottom end of the rod, down the column a ways ) causing my no start issue? anything else i should be looking at?
I had quite a time getting the brass gear behind the ignition tumbler (where the key goes in) timed just right so as to get all of the ignition switch positions. It really is a pain! Here is a picture of the gear position when removing or inserting the key cylinder. It took me a few times to get it right.
i fiddled with that for close to an hour before getting it so that the lock cylinder would line up properly. but, as far as i can tell, it seems like i can go to all 4 positions. Off, turn back for accessory, turn forward for on, and i have movement forward from on, where the dash lights come on, so i would assume thats start)
if i am one gear off, will it cycle, but not quite connect?
also, when disassembling, i saw a single wire (black with pink stripe, if i recall) that had a brass connection that would hit on the key tumbler itself. can anyone tell me what that wire does? im curious....
others have mentioned this, but i dont see where you have responded to the suggestion that you slide the ignition switch up the column a bit to see whether that does the trick.
if i recall, the black/pink wire if the "key in" warning chime.
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