Ok, I have about backed down on building a stroker motor for my 95, F-250.

Comp Cams has a roller, S/D cam for the 5.8 has anyone used this cam?

If so how many extra HP does it give you?

Since my 95 F-250 is Speed density controled I have decided to go with a pretty stock rebuild with Comp Cam. and a Gear Vendors over drive to use as a gear splitter.

Anyone done this combo?

Thank ya.

 

Are you sure that your 5.8L is a roller motor?

I want a gear vendors unit too!!!! 3K rpm @ 70 MPH is too much, NEED overdrive!

'88 f150 4x4 3.55 gears C6 auto. SUPERCAB.

 

Yes, the non-Lightning 5.8 in '95 had roller lifters.

Jim

 

Well, as you already know im working on such a setup. The swap was supposed to be done by last weekend, however a few other vehicular projects got in the way, so It will have to wait untill tommorrow before I can start tearing the truck apart. As it sits right now, the cam is installed in the new engine, and waiting patiently untill it can scream between my fender wells. I will post my results when complete.

fishin1976, have you ever considered swaping in an AOD? Properly built up, they can handle some major power. I have heard of people using built 460's with these, obviously with a transmition adaper plate.

 

Sorry about the stoker. You will be better off in the long run. If you really want to see a big difference when you are done I would get some Ford Motorsport heads GT40 Y's and a cam they from them, the stock cam would probably be fine. Buy the mass air conversion kit also. The GT40 P's are the low line of power, GT40 X's are a little to big and will take away from the low end, GT40 Y's are just about perfect, they have different size combustion chambers so if you have to get your block decked you can still keep a lower compression ratio. The MAF kit is nice and makes it so you don't have to worry about modifications, it seems expensive but for what you get and what it does for you I am totally happy spending the money and I would not be scared to tell you the truth if it was a dumb investment. I bought one and I really like it. Ford builds their stuff for low end torque, most aftermarket stuff takes away from that bottom end and adds a bunch of top end you will never use in your truck. The comp cams stuff is nice but without heads I don't think it will be worth it. There has also been talk about hunterstyle.com, this guy seems to do great work on the stock heads for a very reasonable price in my book. He has cam and head prices also. If you go with the comp cams cam make sure you get the recomended springs and all other parts they tell you to buy for the heads. A buddy of mine just got one and broke one of the rocker studs, so a bunch of money later he has new springs, studs, rockers on stock heads in his speed density Mustang. He wishes he would have just bought aftermarket heads and stuck with the stock cam. It has a ton of power, lost some on the low end but after reading tons of articles and talking with Ford Tech you just can't improve the bottom end from where Ford has it with aftermarket products. You can blow away the top end performance though. Good luck with your choice, I went with everything Ford Motorsport suggested and I am totally amazed with the outcome and happy I went with they suggested instead of trying to figure it out for myself.

 

yes I've thought about it, but I would have to find the adapter to my T-case and very few 4x4s came with the AOD and the manual t-case. If they had the AOD or AODE they had the electronic BW1356 t-case, I have the manual BW1345. (and auto Hubs).

Know of anyone that makes the adapter?

thanks. I like my C6, and would rather split 3rd gear, but the tranny swap may be cheaper. Only if I did not have to rebuild the tranny to handle my 351w.

What about the Drive shafts, would I have to have them custom made? How much longer is the AOD than a C6? Do I have to change tranny crossmembers?

I am beginning to think that the AOD swap may end up being more expensive, what do you think?

 

I am waiting for gamehunters results.

Figure I still have about 12 months service left at best out of the old 5.8-351. @ 166,000 no oil use and I changed the timing chain and gears at 125,000 I also have lightened the load as I will not be pulling a huge 4 horse slant trailer after Sunday.
The truck starts and runs pretty well, but with those kind of miles on it someday its going to need help.

I already had figured to use all the part Comp Cams recommend.

gamehunter knows me from another forum, so I am doing my research!!!! It just going to take some time to assemble my information for the results I want.

Thank you

 

every married Ford transfer case ever produced has the same bolt pattern to my knowlege, should be 6 bolts. That basically means the NP205 used in the early years, the NP 208 used into the 80's, and the newer style BW1300 series. The electric and manual T-cases should both have the same belhousing so no adapter is available or necessary.


My complaint about the gear vendors over drive is its price. The last time I checked, they were over 2 grand, and for a simple 2 speed gear box. I would definately have to agree, however, that a C6 with one of these GV splitters would be far superior in strength and versitility.

I have never talked to anyone who has done the swap before, but I would guess the original driveshafts could be reused. The difference in case lenght is only .5". The C6 having a case length of 20" and the AOD at 20.5". You may also need to check into the crossmember, depending on were exactly it bolts to the AOD compared to the C6, the bolt holes may or may not align properly.

The swap does sound doable though. I am personally checking into a built up AOD to swap out my 5 speed with. I enjoy crawling over things at the pace of a snail and being able to pull my boat up the ramp without using low range and still be able to scream down the highway at 75mph without turning 3000rpm. All this just isn't possible with only 3 gears to work with. Even so, 4 gears just barely gets by. To bad there isn't a 5 speed swap that wouldn't require a masters degree in wiring and fabricating.

 

Oh, I forgot to mention....I found out the hard way that this cam requires adjustable valve train. Im a little dissapointed because Crane said I wouldn't need it, the shims should take care of it. Well, im .040 off and if I started it up as is, it would sing like a sewing machine. This did present a bit of an obstacle because if I go with RR and studs with chromoly pushrods, I would have to have the heads reworked to fit the new guideplates. However, I found out that Crane does sell a kit that gets around this with a poly type guidplate to use the existing steel pushrods and requires no head work. Cost: $90 This kit only works for stock to mildly modified engines though. Then, all I need to pick up is a set of 1.6 RR. Jegs has a set from proform for $149.99 that I may look into. Not the pretties, but who sees 'em anyway? I am also looking for a good used set of anyone knows of any real quick like(has to be 1.6 ratio though) I will probalby have this stuff 2nd day aired right to work so it will be here bright and early on monday morn. See now, there is ALWAYS something else you need no matter how prepaired you are.

 

Make sure you get the correct springs also. After my buddy was done had spent enough money to buy some GT40 P's. Make sure to get some ARP rocker studs also or the ones you mention. The stock studs will start breaking after a couple of months. It is never ending! The HO cam out of a Mustang from what I read is a real good choice for your setup.