I'm changing the cam in my 97 F-350 this weekend. I had a hard time finding a cam. Ford discontinued the cam and the motorsport tech guy told me that I would need to find a cam that works with a Speed density senor. He then told me that he only knew of one and that was Crane cams. Which is out of business now. My parts guy talked to Comp cams and they said they have one that will work.
Roger

 

i called comp also and i bet they told you the same thing EX256H-14 that was the cam they told me to use and i bet that is what they said to you. I am looking for one on my 96 i am switching mine to mass air so i wouldn't thing it would be that much of a problem to find a cam but i guess i am wrong.

 

I am in the middle of a cam change on my 97 F350/460/CA model with mass air and I chased my tail like you guys did looking at cams. I ended up calling Scott at RHP, phone 253-988-6648, Re-In-"Car"-nation High Performance and Automotive Repair/index and he had a local cam grinder (Delta) grind me this:

Voodoo Hyd Cam - Ford 429-460 250/256

Product Description

Lunati's Voodoo series of Hydraulic camshafts deliver more area under the curve than any other series of Hydraulic camshafts. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum, better efficiency, combined with maximum horsepower and torque!Hydraulic. Very strong torque and increased HP for mild performance rebuilds. Compatible with stock type fuel injection. Works great for pleasure/ski boats, and mild towing applications.

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 250/256
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 207/213
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .503/.535
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: idle-5000
• Includes: Cam Only

Part Number: 61600



except he went with a 114 LSA to keep the smog ***** happy in CA and I think it is advanced 5* instead of 4*. About $220 for custom cam and lifters. I also ordered drop in valve springs, etc. ($110), as well as a ported intake manifold exchange ($200). Scott has been very helpful and informative (I haven't changed a cam in over 10 years). I don't have much time to work on my truck, so I have been at it for over a week, but it should be complete by this weekend???

 

Dezertracer nailed it. After researching for a couple of months, I called RHP and got the same cam. It's sitting in the garage still, I'm trying to find a set of headers for less than $700 that'll get me thru Calif smog check.. And find the time to do the install..

Dezertracer, I'm looking forward to hearing how your stuff runs!!

 

The cam I got is a Comp cam. They have a cam that is a stock replacement for E.F.I. engines with a speed density sensor. It is supposed to be a stock replacement but they claim more torque. My 460 is in my 97 F-350 4X4 crewcab. I use the truck for pulling my 23ft travel trailer, camper and quad trailer when hunting or to pull the racecar. I'm not looking for more power but want a cam that will not need different springs and pushrods and of course work with the stock computor. The Comp web page does not list the specs, I phoned Comp and talk to a rep and he said this is the cam for me. I will post the spec or cam card later when I open the box. I started pulling the motor apart last night and should have it running by sunday. Comp cam part # 34-255-5 it does not show up on their page so you have to search the part #.
Roger

 

i chose a cam from summit racing its the sum-3501 ..great cam has 503 intake and exhause lift ..works with stock springs has a noticeable idle ..

 

I went with the comp 34-255-5 also should be here some time next week. it has a .490in .495ex lift 212, 219 duration and i think a 114 LSA.

 

I just opened the box and your specs are right. It has been a long and trying weekend. I was hoping to be putting the motor back together by now but life happens. Taking the motor apart also had challenges but the worst was the lifters. They had a bad plaque build-up and all where stuck in the block. I had to use vise grips to rotate them and spray with a lubricant. I broke 4 lifters while doing this and it took 4 hours to get all 16 out.
I'll try in a few days to post pics of the damage on the rockers. In the fulcum of the rocker is 2 oil grooves but on my motor the rockers had worn themselves into the fulcum so instead of oil there was metal on metal. The previous owner must not have done regular oil changes or ran the motor low on oil. I'm worried about the oil pump so I'm installing a mechanical oil gauge.
I was surpised at how much oil or gas plaque build-up there was in the intake runner and head. I cleaned it out with throttle bore spray. My brother inlaw used to be a Ford mechanic and was always using the thorottle spray when he helped me on my Fords. I will start using the cleaner with every oil change.
Roger

 

My motor only had an estamated 40K on the motor but i would guess it probaly has closer to 60K. The reason i say this is the guy i bought the truck from pulled it behind his RV. So true driven miles is unkown. But my motor had a lot of carbon build up in it too. That is why i am going to do a total rebuild on mine. I did port the crap out of the upper and lower intake this weekend looks real good can't wait to get it back on the dyno.

 

Well, I finished my cam change yesterday and man was it a lot of work...

My truck is a 1997 F-350 Crew Cab - Long Bed - 460 CA model w/ mass air - E4OD - 4x4 w/ 4.10 gears. It is only used for hauling dirtbikes to the desert and pulling a 10,000 pound fifth wheel toyhauler. Previous modifications were Banks PowerPack headers/exhaust/TransCommand/air filter, John Wood built E4OD and BBK throttle body. The truck just turned 100,000 miles and I knew that I should replace the timing chain, so I might as well slip in a new cam while it is torn apart, right?

RHP supplied the Lunati Voodoo #61600 spec cam:

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 250/256
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 207/213
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .503/.535
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• RPM Range: idle-5000

but changed the LSA to 114. They also supplied the lifters, valve springs, retainers, locks (+.050 on exhaust) and ported intake manifold. Y2K Ford (one of the FTE Forum sponsors) supplied a new water pump and intake manifold gasket set. Summit supplied a Ford Racing timing chain set, moly paste and Fel-Pro timing cover gasket set. I already had a new Mr. Gasket 180* thermostat. I picked up a few other gaskets here and there.

How long did the entire job take me? Over 50 hours - maybe even 60...Why did it take so long?

1. The truck is tall. I used an old water heater stand to stand on which worked really well, but still lots of climbing on and off...
2. I had trouble removing the EGR tube. Lots of heat and lots of swearing; 5 hours at least...
3. I had to borrow tools from Kragen to remove/replace power steering pump pulley, remove/replace harmonic balancer and remove/replace valve springs. Their valve spring compressor worked on 12 out of 16 springs; I had to purchase and modify another spring compressor from another parts store to reach the remaining 4. Their fuel line disconnect kit did not work for me, so I had to pick up the plastic clam-shell type at another parts store. Kragen wanted an $80 deposit for the more expensive tools, so after removing the parts I got my money back. Had to go back and borrow the tools again to reinstall. Lots of running back and forth included in my total time...
4. I have never replaced valve springs before. Not a bad job once I got the flow going, but still 4 or 5 hours...
5. I had to swap fuel injectors, fuel rail (I spent at least an hour polishing it), upper plenum, plugs, fittings, etc. over to the ported intake manifold...
6. I used the factory Ford service manual which had me bouncing back and forth to different sections. I basically went by what they said and I torqued everything to spec...
7. The new factory Ford waterpump had one web on it that did not clear the alternator bracket or the water pump pulleys. I did not notice it until after I installed it. Had to break out the grinder and grind, grind, grind...then re-paint.
8. I am kinda old and kinda slow...but I work methodically and am very clean. All my gasket surfaces were sano and no crap, tools, rags, etc. fell into the engine...

I changed the oil and filter, added the oil additive, primed the oil pump, installed the distributor (got it right the first time), filled the radiator with water and it started on the second attempt...broke the cam in for 30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm and then changed the oil and filter again and filled the radiator with coolant.

The result...no water or oil leaks at all. My intitial reaction was just being happy that I had done no harm to the engine (slow and sano, right...) The cam that I chose was the mildest in the Lunati Voodoo line (I need to pass smog every 2 years) and my truck is very heavy, so I had realistic expectations from the cam change. I drove the truck about 20 miles and noticed a little torque increase off the bottom, a nice mid-range boost starting at about 2500 rpm and it breathes much, much better on top. I don't think I saw a performance increase when I first installed the BBK throttle body, but now with the increased lift of the new cam and the ported intake, maybe it is starting to flow? I won't know what I really think of the new cam, etc. until I haul the trailer over one of the mountain passes, but time will tell...

JD

 

John,

Glad to see you are getting good results. You might want to try setting initial timing to 12 degrees BTDC if you have not chipped the ecm.

I do not like the comp cams XE256H-14 because at 212 / 219 degrees duration at .050" it moves the powerband up to far. The stock cam is 193/207 @ .050" and adding almost 20 degrees duration @ .050" lift shifts the power and torque peaks up 400 to 500 RPM. Not good for a heavy tow vehicle.

We recently finished tuning an 89 motor home 460 fuelie combo that is based on the E 350 van chassis. It weighs in at about 11,000 pounds plus.

Mods were as follows:

E7TE heads with port cleanup and larger 2.08" intake valves. They flow as well as stock early castings on the intake side and near 200 cfm exhaust. This is on par with the better F3TE fuelie castings with their larger intake valve.

Heads decked .025"

Ported factory intake

Same voodoo cam. upgraded valve springs

Banks exhaust with doug thorley headers.

K&N aircleaner and air silencers removed.

Hypertech chip with 180 t stat.

BBK # 1706 fuel pressure regulator set to 44.5 psi at WOT and 38 psi idle. This is done to alleviate the lean conditions that occur at WOT with the stock and chipped fuel maps.

The RV repair shop service advisor (Chris at automotive specialties in tacoma wa.) that installed the items commented that he has NEVER driven a 460 based combo that pulled like this hog does. The HP value per dollar spent was a good investment in his opinion.

This combo also has the add on overdrive unit and is quite happy at 65 mph turning 2500 rpm and will even pull hills in OD.

Combo likes better fuel and this is because of the hypertechs more agressive ignition advance curve.

All in all I feel the combo works quite well and am going to continue to utilise it.





Scott Johnston / The Mad Porter
RHP
Tacoma, WA.

 

The motor is running but needs a little work. I have to set the timing and fix a couple vacum lines I broke. What should the timing be on a 97 460? Another fix I need to do is the oilg I installed is leaking and I have tightened it twice.
Roger

 

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/215117191010067166HMFpz?vhost=rides

 

i was plannin on using that comp cam i heard alot of good things guess i'll be re thinking that now

 

The fuelie engine's cam requirements are unique in that with a speed density EFI system you must have similar idle vacuum to stock in order for the EFI to be happy.

Most aftermarket cams run lobe sep at 110 to 112 degrees versus the stock cams 115 lobe sep. The tighter the lobe sep the earlier the intake valve closes which increases low and midrange torque but increases overlap and reduces vacuum at idle. The additional overlap increases higher rpm efficiency and makes better peak power numbers albiet with a slightly lower HP peak rpm (narrower powerband) but usually more peak power.

Another side effect of a wider lobes sep in addition to the better idle quality and vacuum is a wider power band with higher HP and torque rpm peaks for a given duration figure. Since most fuelie combos need a bunch of low end torque for towing etc I do not feel that a cam with 212 degrees intake duration with a wide lobe sep is appropriate for these applications.

The stock valve lifts are in the .437" range and additional lift present in the aftermarket cams almost always translates into additional torque and HP due to better cylinder filling. I have run the above voodoo cam on a 112m lobe sep for fuelie apps and while it works well the combos lope when warming up. Though the lope is not really a problem the tighter lobe sep can sometimes invite detonation when the engine is heavily loaded due to the earlier intake valve closing event. Remember the fuelie combos actually have c/r in the 8.5 to 1 range. Not like the mid 70's 460's which were in reality in the mid 7's.

When dealing with a mass air vehicle then I have much more lattitude to tighten lobe sep and add some duration which is not such a compromise but again in most truck applications I see no real need to have a HP peak any higher than 4,750 rpm.