When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm a little late in creating this post, but better late than never right?! Lol
Anyways, as many of you know I purchased my 1986 E-350 Super Club Wagon early this year and then shortly after the original motor went out on me with a loud BANG! After I pull the motor out I found that the #8 cylinder connecting rod had failed and damaged the block pretty good. A couple months ago I picked up a motor from a junkyard that I took to a local machine shop to inspect and clean up for me. Then I ordered a few replacement and upgrade parts for the motor before I put it back in. Of course, during the removal of the original motor I had some help, but when everything was ready to go back in I had none.
I haven't counted up the money that I've spent on it yet (I'll probably be ashamed lol), but what I've done so far beyond the normal rebuild is this:
Holley 670 Street Avenger carb
COMP Cams K35-230-3 cam and springs kit
Proform HEI distributor
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
I'm not sure how much power this will make yet, but I do plan on going to the dyno at some point to dial in the carb for better power and MPG. Of course, that will most likely wait until I get the headers for the engine, and possibly even after I get the new heads. The heads that were on the replacement motor weren't in great condition and most likely won't last another 50k. I managed to lap the valves and get them to seat and hopefully seal, but I don't expect much from them, so new heads are in order for this engine. After I replace the heads a carb tuning will be in short order.
Here is a few pics of the project after I had already taken the motor out:
And here is some since rebuilding the motor (of course they aren't in order for some reason):
I managed to get the motor in by myself the other day and finally got the trans mated to it yesterday. All I have left to do (since I didn't take any pictures yesterday) is tighten up the transmission mounts for the frame, linkages and the stuff on the front of the engine.
Then I'm hoping to "paint" it with black truck bed liner with a red BioHazard symbol on the side of it.
Of course 4x4 will be in the future if I can figure a tidy way to put it in with a GearVendors Overdrive on a rebuilt (most likely Monster) C6 transmission.
The heads are the biggest limiting factor, you can toss a ton of stuff on a 351 and it will still suck until you replace the stock heads. ANY aftermarket head is going to add a ton of power as long as your carb is big enough.
If performance is what you're after, why didn't you opt for a 460 swap?
Because I didn't want to have to change the entire drivetrain to another gas motor. If I go that far to do a motor swap it'll be to a desiel, which I don't want to do right now because of funds as well as because I need the van now for winter. I've love my bike, but it just doesn't do that well in the northern winters, and because I'm tired of having to feel like the stay puff marshmallow man while I ride lol
Originally Posted by Jmanb13
The heads are the biggest limiting factor, you can toss a ton of stuff on a 351 and it will still suck until you replace the stock heads. ANY aftermarket head is going to add a ton of power as long as your carb is big enough.
Im well aware of that, which is why another set of heads will be ordered at some point. I would've loved to replace them but I just couldn't justify spending the money on them right now.
Originally Posted by JWA
Yeah but it bolts in----AND back out again when/if needed!
Exactly! Lol although it is A LOT easier when you have help!
All I managed to get done today was get the thermostat, water pump, motor mount nuts, starter, drivers side exhaust manifold, and harmonic balancer in. Could've had more done if I'd found my boots in a reasonable amount of time. Even though the bolts were bagged and labeled for the most part, I still couldn't find them. It was a good thing I had two motors worth of bolts there since I couldn't find one of the bolts for the thermostat, not to mention the damaged crank bolt for the harmonic balancer.
That is your passing gear kick down. Should be a metal rod that comes from carb down to that linkage. If you did not get a carb set up for the ford kickdown it might not be able to be hooked up unless they sell an add on linkage for the carb. You can drive with out it. Mine has been off for years after I went to 460 and a holley.
That is your passing gear kick down. Should be a metal rod that comes from carb down to that linkage. If you did not get a carb set up for the ford kickdown it might not be able to be hooked up unless they sell an add on linkage for the carb. You can drive with out it. Mine has been off for years after I went to 460 and a holley.
Ok, I think I know which Rod you're talking about. I completely forgot about it sitting in the van, I'll see if there is any way I can put it on the new carb today when I go down there. Thanks for info moose
Got almost everything installed now, just have the bumper, fuel line, spark plug wires and the valve covers. Tightened down the rocker arm bolts, hopefully there won't be any issues. I rotated the engine a couple times by hand after I primed the oil pump. If I have any backfiring through the carb that I don't think is timing then that will be the first thing I address. The only thing that could change valve lift at rest would be the lifters and I seriously doubt the new COMP ones are different dimensions than the stock ones. I used the stock steel fuel line from the fuel pump and cut off the end, which fits 5/16 fuel line, so I have to add in a fuel filter and adapter to get it up to the 3/8 size used by Holley. This Proform HEI distributor doesn't fit with the Holley and the stock coolant line for the heater core, so I'm going to have to do some surgery to the distributor cap ro remove the "key" so that I can rotate it to make it work. I'll try to remember to take better pics of the issue tomorrow. I am hoping that I can get the old ignition cylinder out tomorrow so that I can start it since the one that is in it is all mangled from having to destroy it to be able to move it during the spring. I still have to look at the old carb and find out what kind of connections I need from my Holley install kit as well. As for the filter, I'm going to have find a carb spacer block, or a filter spacer to get the filter above the Proform HEI distributor as well. I didn't order a new filter housing because I was planning on using the old one, but I can't since it hits the distributor.
Does anyone have any idea where I can get the original style replacement for the clip nuts that are used for the front end assembly? I have a few that are missing, plus more than a few of the trim rivets that are broken.
Does anyone know of any OEM cruise controls for the van in 86? I'd like to put cruise in it, but of course I'd like it to stay as OEM looking as possible, at least on the user end of it.
Yesterday, I got the ignition cylinder replaced and put the battery in, tried to start it and...nothing. Checked the starter selnoid with a wire straight from the battery and it works fine. I don't have the manual with me ask its with the van right now and I may not go down there today. Anyone have any ideas as to why this may be happening? I haven't hooked up the hot wire from the original coil harness to the HEI yet. I don't think this early of a model had any safety measures for faulty equipment, so I thought I'd ask you guys if there was anything that you guys think I might have missed. I'll wire a temporary push button start to get it running right now, but I'd still like the key to work eventually.
Yesterday, I got the ignition cylinder replaced and put the battery in, tried to start it and...nothing. Checked the starter selnoid with a wire straight from the battery and it works fine. I don't have the manual with me ask its with the van right now and I may not go down there today. Anyone have any ideas as to why this may be happening? I haven't hooked up the hot wire from the original coil harness to the HEI yet. I don't think this early of a model had any safety measures for faulty equipment, so I thought I'd ask you guys if there was anything that you guys think I might have missed. I'll wire a temporary push button start to get it running right now, but I'd still like the key to work eventually.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
