Oh dont forget the voltage drop with DC volts.. maybe a couple of #10 and # 8 gauge wires. you can always use the larger #8 to feed power to another fuse panel and split off from there..

 

Well, I'll admit that the first few miles were a little nervous and hoping that I didn't forget anything, but now I'm just Rollin on the miles to the next oil change which after today is only another 230 miles I ended up putting some good miles on the van today while going to my doc appt for my shoulder. The nice thing was that the route that the GPS took me was mostly highway speed (55) and she felt really good. Even the steering was good considering its condition, but I still want to replace the tie-Rod's and the drank link, and anything else in the linkages.

The only trouble that has been persistent is this damn wiring issue with the hacked up stock harness. Right now the only electrical issue that I'm trying to resolve is the one with my brake lights not working. Does anyone have any PDFs of the wiring diagrams for the 86? I absolutely hate this POS Haynes manual, it doesn't show anything beyond the very very basic system and not even all of it. Like the brake light switch isn't even included in the diagram at all. I did trace one of the wires for the brake light switch to the connector for the turn signal switch, and I "think" that I've found the wires for the brake lights...BUT I can't tell how the brake light switch is setup with the turn signal switch. IF the brake light switch is powered from the battery and then sent to the turn signal switch for each individual light then I will have a power problem (which marchese everything else). BUT IF the brake light switch is grounded opposite the turn signal switch, then I have a bad ground (which also doesn't surprise me at all). The problem is that without a good wiring diagram, I have absolutely no idea what I'm looking for, especially considering how likely either problem is. If anyone can help me out I'd really appreciate it.

If anyone knows how to use a multimeter for resistance, you could even check your brake light switch with the turn signal harness disconnected for power or ground. I'm pretty sure that this is not something that would change between the years, but it is possible. Granted with all the other electrical problems that I'm having a diagram would be nice, but at least power/ground info would hopefully keep me from getting a ticket for something obsurd.


Once again...if anyone wants this interior they need to speak up. I just put in the transfer paperwork to move to AZ so I'll have the possible chance to bring it right too you soon if you want it. The transfer should go through by the end of January hopefully, once I get to AZ then I will get rid of it one way or another.

 

sent you a PM...

 

I just ran across this link while I was looking for some formulae to calculate the R value of what I intend to do. There is also some other information regarding fiberglass' performance in the winter months that you guys will want to read. Let's just say that after reading that I'm glad that I was already dead set against using fiberglass when possible. Granted it won't be completely 100% feasible considering all the tiny access holes and dead spaces in the wall, but I will do my best. I am also considering using polyester fiberfill, similar to that of what is in your pillows and sleeping bags, but I haven't found any info yet on its R value yet.

R-Values in the Real World SIPs | SIPA - Structural Insulated Panel Association

 

Forgot to mention that I noticed that I didn't have heat the other day out of the defrost vents. First thing I checked was the coolant level and noticed that it was considerably low even though I never noticed the temp gauge going high. When I refilled it I ended up putting in a hair less than a full gallon, so I obviously have a leak somewhere but I'm really not 100% where. If I have to bet, I would say either the bypass hose for the rear heater core, or the front heater core. When I parked the van last night I did notice what looked like a possible puddle underneath the front of the van roundabouts where the front heater core is. I do remember that when I first put in the antifreeze I remembered smelling a faint whif of it when I first ran the van, but it doesn't persist so I couldn't nail down where it was coming from. There was a little antifreeze sitting on the front lip of the crossmember, but I didn't see where it was leaking down from yet. I haven't seen any antifreeze leaking from anywhere on the engine yet even when it's hot, so I'm a little stumped as to where it could be leaking from. The exhaust doesn't have the sweet smell normally associated with coolant getting into the combustion chamber and it doesn't steam other than when the motor is cold. When I checked the oil the other day I didn't see any coolant in the oil either, but I'll try to remember to double check everything. Anyone have any other ideas to look into?

 

AZ and other parts stores have radiator pressure testers in their loaner tools...
If you could pressurize it, then perhaps you could find the leak easier..

When you connected the heater cores, how long did you bleed the air out of the system? I don't know how much antifreeze both heater cores and lines could take up, but probably a good bit...

Other choice might be to bypass the heater core you think it might be.. But I would pressure test it first...
DON'T think water in the oil!!!!!
Good chance it is just air in the system!!
Do you have a overflow tank? Good radiator cap? you could have lost some there...

 

AZ does have a pressure tester and I've used it before, I think I found the leak this afternoon. At first it looked like the thermostat housing was just a little wet below the radiator hose, but after warming the engine up there was a good solid dripping from the bottom of the housing.

 

You probably know that when installing the thermostat, you have to make sure that it doesn't slip down.. I'm guessing the 302 and 351 have that same problem.. You may have seen my post where I used a rubber band looped through the thermostat to hold it in place and also a self adhesive gasket..

If you need a new housing, I got mine at NAPA for $8 and it was heavier then the original.. Because of then new housing being thicker material, I had to buy new bolts a 1/4" longer..
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/WP_20151212_11_57_38_Pro.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/WP_20151212_11_57_38_Pro.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_20151212_11_57_38_Pro.jpg"/></a>

 

I was having issues with my iPad last time I posted but yes I had the same issue when I first installed the thermostat. I ended up taking it back out and RTVing it in place first and then put a bead around the mating surface. It wasn't leaking shortly after installing it so I assumed it was good since I knew that the thermostat hadn't slipped, but I can check it again later with the pressure tester and look at the mating surface to be sure that the RTV didn't fail.

 

Well the day before yesterday I ended up messing with the front of the engine, getting the bolt in for the intake manifold and replacing the hose clamp, and then went to help a friend get their Christmas tree. The entire drive down there I was impressed with how well the engine felt and how the transmission was shifting gears. I ended up taking a look at the engine again yesterday and realized that when I was moving the kick down linkage out of the way of everything else that it had somehow gotten hung up in the carb throttle arm, ironically right below where it is supposed to be mounted. Since I have the Holley kit to get it mounted "correctly" I'll try to get that done tomorrow hopefully. Of course that means that I'll have to make some sense of the instructions that I saw for that kit, but I'm sure that when I put my mind to it I'll figure it out.

I do have a friend that offered up his AOD transmission that came out of a 86 or 87 Town Car, I know that it would need to be rebuilt but I was wondering if that trans would be strong enough to put in the van. If I used it and rebuilt it myself I would use the Monster kit, but I wanted to be sure that it would be able to handle the power from the 351W. Monster claims that their rebuilds can handle up to 600hp/550tq even with the AOD SS Mega Monster rebuild kit. I honestly don't see that my engine would be making that much power, so my concern is whether or not it is up to the task of towing while in this van. Granted, I won't be doing anything foolish like trying to tow in OD or letting the trans get hot, I just wanted to know if anyone else has tried this option and had either success or failure. Eventually I will also get a GearVendors OD to put behind it to help keep the engine in it's power band, and when I'm not towing to allow the engine to run at a lower RPM.

 

It's been a while since I got this thread caught up and a few things have happened since then so I'll start with the mechanical things first.

My coolant leak was because my intake manifold bolts weren't torqued down, I retorqued them and now I haven't seen any unexplained loss of coolant at least.

My oil leak that I referred to in the general engine thread was because of the cork valve cover gaskets from the cheap gasket set. I replaced them with a set of good rubber and steel ones. I still have a leak, but it's not as bad and may be because of the valve covers themselves deforming from the clamping force of the bolts. I will try a set valve cover bolts and "washers" and see if that fixes it.

If anyone can tell me where the vacuum line goes through the firewall for the heater control panel I would appreciate it. I need to reconnect the vacuum line to it so that I can regain control of the vents. The fan stopped working about a month or so ago but last week I was driving it and stopped to check the fuses. The fuse for the heater system was blown and the fan was working when I replaced it and found out that the fan switch doesn't work anymore. I will probably have to replace the control panel as well, but I will at least set up the fan to run through a PWM so that I have better control over the fan speed.

Hopefully I can trim down what I have in my storage unit by selling a few things and get me some money to replace the tires I have on the van right now that are dry-rotted. I think one of the rear tires may also have a slipped belt too, hopefully the vibration that I'm feeling above 65MPH will be eliminated when I replace the tires.

 

Did you make your trip?
Since you posted last, I have acquired a EVTM for a 88 e150 and just learning how to read it. It doesn't show where the vacuum line goes through the firewall but the 88 and 86 are the same, the vacuum for the control comes off the vacuum tree. From there it goes to a 3 line check valve and connects to the side with a single line. The other side of the check valve that has 2 lines going from it, one goes to a vacuum tank while the other goes to the control panel. Seems to me like I have read a post that said the vacuum tank, and maybe the valve, are behind "inside" the right front fender... Don't quote me on that.. But if correct, then somewhere on the right side under the hood you should find the vacuum line. The reason for the vacuum tank is so it doesn't swap from heat to defrost from lack of vacuum when you are accelerating.
And this is all providing the 88 and 86 are the same setup..
BTW,, Don't run 65 with dry rotted tires!!!! If one of those tires come apart, even if you control the stop, it can really damage your fenders and other stuff under there! Years ago I needed some tires and a friend gave me some very old recap tires. It wasnt long before I had lost 2 of them.. SO be careful..

 

I've gotten to Huntsville Alabama right now so that I could address the issue with the storage unit. I'm also trying to sell off a ton of stuff that I just really don't want to have to move and also to get me a new set of tires for the van.

I'll have to get a vacuum line T so that I can put in a tank as well as reconnect the controls. I'll take a look at the right side when it's done raining and see if I can find something that looks like what I need. I tore everything out that was vacuum before since I knew I wouldn't be using almost any of it, but besides that I had no idea what was what anyways.

How far from Huntsville did you say you were?

 

I hope you didn't have any problems on the way.. I'm about 155 to 160 miles from you. Its supposed to dry up tomorrow and be sunny and warm for a few days.
If you have a email addy, I can send you diagrams of the 88 vacuum line connections to the heater.
Maybe there is a way to just temp in a vacuum line to hold the heater door opened so you wont freeze. There is a mix setting that gives you floor and defrost.

 

That's essentially all I'm trying to do, just get it working so that I have better control over the heater since I can see perfectly fine but my feet are freezing lol

I'll have to admit though that the weatherstripping that I shoved into the window cracks and the door seal areas has helped considerably in that regard, not to mention it has made the van considerably quieter as well.

I have the vac diagrams for the 86 that I pulled from the AllData site, but they don't say where any of the vac lines enter the body, so I was hoping someone else knew before I tore into this thing blind.