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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 06:37 PM
  #16  
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Nope. None. As Tugly stated, that issue was corrected long ago in changes in formulations and o-ring compounds, 1960-70's I believe, but the issue lives in the collective memory.

Now, I did have a leak on the passenger side due to a valve cover bolt being loose.

I am the only one that works on this truck. Go figure....

I hate the passenger side bottom VC bolts with a passion.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jhl3
Nope. None. As Tugly stated, that issue was corrected long ago in changes in formulations and o-ring compounds, 1960-70's I believe, but the issue lives in the collective memory.

Now, I did have a leak on the passenger side due to a valve cover bolt being loose.

I am the only one that works on this truck. Go figure....

I hate the passenger side bottom VC bolts with a passion.
Thanks. Talked to a buddy today about the and he said his 7.3 has terrible romps. He thought it was injectors or glow plugs. Had both replaced...still romps in cold weather. He is trying T6 in next couple weeks. This will be very good experiment
 
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #18  
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When I first got my PSD over 7 years ago, it had 124k miles and would romp as warm as 65F-68F. I ran Delo 400 15w40. Once I switched to 5w40 synthetic it has never romped since. Some of the additional cost is offset by longer oil change intervals. Also, no leaks. I think the whole notion with synthetic oil leaking more, or creating leaks, is largely a myth. Especially with modern engines and synthetic gasket materials.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 07:41 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by binuya
When I first got my PSD over 7 years ago, it had 124k miles and would romp as warm as 65F-68F. I ran Delo 400 15w40. Once I switched to 5w40 synthetic it has never romped since. Some of the additional cost is offset by longer oil change intervals. Also, no leaks. I think the whole notion with synthetic oil leaking more, or creating leaks, is largely a myth. Especially with modern engines and synthetic gasket materials.
Yep, mine romped today at 55 degrees I'm going to wait a couple weeks and change it out to T6
 
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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From: Asheville-where weird is
Yep! And some think that it is still a new technology and hence not reliable. However, synthetics have been around for about 80 years. The Germans relied on synthetics for about 50% of their needs at times during WWII.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 01:00 AM
  #21  
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When it romps, I found that mashing on the accelerator briefly, than letting go, makes the romps go away, even with 15W40 oil (but this accelerator snap trick has not been tested below 20 degrees F).

When I switched to synthetic 5W40, I never had the opportunity to practice snapping the accelerator to make the romps go away again. Because the romps never appeared with synthetic. Just like the others have reported.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 05:01 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jhl3
...I hate the passenger side bottom VC bolts with a passion.
Two things: Fender well and 13mm flex socket. You can get at those bottom buggers in the rear (closer to the firewall) quite easily through the fender well with a 13mm ratcheting combination wrench. I use a 13mm flex socket on my Milwaukee driver drill with crazy-long extensions from the top. I can get every bolt on the VC with the driver, but I have to switch to a deep socket with a universal on those stud bolts.



Originally Posted by binuya
...Some of the additional cost is offset by longer oil change intervals. Also, no leaks. I think the whole notion with synthetic oil leaking more, or creating leaks, is largely a myth. Especially with modern engines and synthetic gasket materials.
Synthetic oil causing leaks isn't a myth, it's a part of history. While not disputing jhl3, I thought it was in the 1980s. Once a product as fundamental as oil starts making expensive damage to a car, that reputation is hard to kill - even decades later.

The extended oil change only holds IF the oil stays golden. With our high-mile engines, it's very easy for soot to get into the oil, through a variety of channels. I have exhaust getting into the oil via the valve guides - I can actually see it. I can't even get my 3000 miles out of the oil before it turns black, so I had to install an oil bypass filter. My synthetic should make it 5000-6000 miles now... if I choose.

 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 07:42 AM
  #23  
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Rich, I cannot read the manufacturer of the socket from the picture. Could you help me a bit? Is it SnapOn? I have a set of the floppy headed ones. This may work better.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 08:02 AM
  #24  
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Snap-On has them - I bought Armstrong. They don't flop around (yet), so you can "aim" them when approaching the bolt. They are specifically designed for the battery-powered impact drivers that everybody buys now. Don't forget the impact extension set:

 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #25  
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Thank you for the info Rich. The search begins...
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #26  
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Rich,


If you pull your pants down in another thread. My god man.


: )
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 06:11 PM
  #27  
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T5 10w40

Looking around Shell site and saw this. All I ever saw in T5 was 10w30. Might be a good in between oil for some climates. Cheaper than T6. Anyone here ever use this or is it new?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #28  
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I'm sticking with the T6.


'm sure it's good but Diesel rating is the qualifier.


I'd rather spend a thousand dollars on an oil change than 2k on 40 pairs of cowboy boots.


Denny
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DieselDenny
I'm sticking with the T6.


'm sure it's good but Diesel rating is the qualifier.


I'd rather spend a thousand dollars on an oil change than 2k on 40 pairs of cowboy boots.


Denny
After reading the specs on each oil, the T5 doesn't mention diesel motors at all. Says heavy duty but not diesel. The T6 mentions Diesel engines several times in the product description. Interesting
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 07:01 PM
  #30  
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From: Asheville-where weird is
The viscosity of the oil when cold is what helps or hinders the injectors. The "5" in the 5/40 is what makes all of the difference. Effectively, it is a 5w oil until it begins to warm up and it slowly becomes a 40W as it continues to reach FOT.

A "10" W would obviously bridge the gap, but it might be "close and yet no cigar".

I would try the 5/40 T6 for this winter at a minimum. You may find you'll run it all the time. The injectors in this 7.3 are noticeably quieter with the 5/40.
 
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