Tips for a test start on Flathead 6
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
Tips for a test start on Flathead 6
I am hoping to attempt to start/crank my stock 226 flathead 6 this weekend, but boy do I need help. This is literally the first time I have ever done this, and I just want to see if this engine still moves, but I don't want to damage anything. What would you all do before giving this a go? I currently have the cab off and no wires hooked up. I was planning on the old jumper negative cable grounded to the frame, and hot jumper cable to the starter post. I know this is preschool stuff to you guys, but I want to learn. I guess the questions are...
drain oil
flush radiator
oil - grade?
napa/autozone/oreillys #'s
oil filter -
plugs-
plug wires-
fuel filter-
points-
distributor-
coil-
distributor vacuum "thing"??? -
water temp plug??
does the generator have to be hooked up?
oil bath air filter need to be on and functioning?
drain oil
flush radiator
oil - grade?
napa/autozone/oreillys #'s
oil filter -
plugs-
plug wires-
fuel filter-
points-
distributor-
coil-
distributor vacuum "thing"??? -
water temp plug??
does the generator have to be hooked up?
oil bath air filter need to be on and functioning?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,174
Likes: 4,781
From: Burbank, WA
The first thing I would do is put a wrench on the crank bolt and see if it will turn over by hand, before putting juice to the starter. No point in going much farther if it's seized.
The next thing would be not spending any more money on it than necessary. The electrics look intact, so I wouldn't waste time and money changing everything out just to see if it turns over. One step at a time. Pull off air cleaner, check and clean connections as necessary. Make sure it has oil or add fresh. Put electricity to the starting circuit and see what happens. If it turns over and you have spark, drip a little gas in the carb and see what happens. If you have fire, add water and see if it will run longer on its own. (if it will hold water) Like I said, one step at a time. That's my 2c. Good luck
The next thing would be not spending any more money on it than necessary. The electrics look intact, so I wouldn't waste time and money changing everything out just to see if it turns over. One step at a time. Pull off air cleaner, check and clean connections as necessary. Make sure it has oil or add fresh. Put electricity to the starting circuit and see what happens. If it turns over and you have spark, drip a little gas in the carb and see what happens. If you have fire, add water and see if it will run longer on its own. (if it will hold water) Like I said, one step at a time. That's my 2c. Good luck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Positive cable goes to ground, negative is "hot".
How long since it was in service? Personally I would drop the oil pan and see if the engine is full of sludge. Why start it if all you are going to do is circulate sludge? It will never be easier.
Hook up a boat gas tank or a 2-gallon gas can to a hose feeding the fuel pump. Use fresh gas.
Likewise I'd just disconnect everything on the generator. You can run off the battery for a couple of hours.
How long since it was in service? Personally I would drop the oil pan and see if the engine is full of sludge. Why start it if all you are going to do is circulate sludge? It will never be easier.
Hook up a boat gas tank or a 2-gallon gas can to a hose feeding the fuel pump. Use fresh gas.
Likewise I'd just disconnect everything on the generator. You can run off the battery for a couple of hours.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
see that is why I ask, simple things like the battery jumper cables! haha I can spin the pulley, it spins pretty easily. So that is not an issue. I was planning on starting at draining oil, cleaning pan, and putting in a fresh oil filter. so gas straight to the fuel pump. should I replace plugs, wires, etc..?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,174
Likes: 4,781
From: Burbank, WA
9278 oil pressure sender. You don't need to mess with that.
12370 vacuum advance. You don't need to mess with that.
6600 oil pump. Don't mess with that, either.
9437 is a heat shield. No reason to mess with that.
12370 vacuum advance. You don't need to mess with that.
6600 oil pump. Don't mess with that, either.
9437 is a heat shield. No reason to mess with that.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
if all goes well on the engine checking out, will the oil pressure sender, and vacuum advance need to be updated or bought new?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 256
You can check the advance by unhooking at the carb, sucking on it and seal with your tongue. If you lose vaccum your diaphram is bad and you lose advance. You do not need that on the first start though, you have other things in front of that first like going through the fuel supply piece and making sure you have good spark.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Remove the spark plugs and pour an ounce of oil down the cylinders. Let it sit awhile and turn the engine over by hand. Downside risk is it gets on the plugs and complicates the startup. But if you start it dry and smoke the rings raking them across dry cylinders that are likely rusted a bit then the startup has no benefit anyway.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
