before starting this engine a few more questions. Is this a drain plug pictured? should I drain this before I attempt to start? Since both of these hoses went into the heater inside should they just be looped to each other or do they need to be plugged?

 

Pezsox,

Like a couple of other folks here have mentioned, when you are ready to crank the engine to start it for the first time, do not pour a lot of gas down into the carb.
You only need a little bit.
I'd recommend using a plastic cap to a soda bottle as the measuring amount. Fill it about 3/4 of the way. That small bit of gas is all that is needed to determine if you have adequate compression and spark for starting. It may take a while for your fuel pump to take over, so try using the bottle cap method two or three times, with plenty of cranking in between each dose.
You may have to get someone to hold your clutch in since the engine is stone cold. This will help reduce the load on the engine until it warms up and can handle turning the mainshaft in the transmission while in neutral.

Yes, you will want to loop your heater hose for engine test purposes. Later you can determine if your heater core is solid. You will want to flush all the old crap in the coolant anyway. Might as well run straight water in the radiator for now.

Good luck on starting the 226, they sure run nice and smooth and you'll be excited when it fires and runs on it's own.

Don't touch that drain petcock yet - it could strip or break and best to leave it alone until you are ready for a deeper examination of that engine.

Tom

 

Does anyone have an oil filter number? I opened that canister and there is not one inside?

 

Fram C4,
WIX 51006,
Purolator P34,
Motocraft FL25,
NAPA 1006

 

So just to clarify. I put my cables on my jumper vehicle red on red/black on black. Then I take the positive red cable to my 48 frame and the black to the starter post? This seems so wrong! Lol

 

If you do that, be sure the truck's in neutral. But yes, that should crank the starter. Since you're going to use the frame, it's really important that the starter case is grounded to the frame. The procedure you described will bypass the starter button, ignition switch, battery, etc...

And unless it's been converted to 12 volts, you should use a 6 volt battery to jump it. Otherwise, if they're not protected, you'll blow out several 6 volt components.

 

Personally, I would disconnect the cables from the donor vehicle and run the jumper cables directly from the battery, without having the battery hooked to the vehicle. It may not matter, but I wouldn't cross connect and take a chance on frying something in the electrical system on the donor car.

 

Do it Wayne's way to be safe. If you are short on power use a battery booster/charger if you can. Jump starting cars is risky enough for the donor charging system even without the flipped ground scenario.

 

Next issue... i had mounds of sludge that I cleaned from the oil filter canister. I took off the canister, cleaned it out. I took out the oil pan "plug" with all 7 nuts and sludge. So now I am going to take the advice and pull the oil pan. I figure I might as well give it a fair shot with clean components. any trick to the oil pan removal before I start?

 

Wear gloves and don't misplace the screen after cleaning it.

 

Is it even possible to get the oil pan off this engine without pulling the engine? It looks like the front of the pan will be damn near impossible to get to those bolts because of the cross member

 

All these questions are answered in detail in the Shop Manual...

 

already ordered the manual, just waiting for it to arrive. but even that won't stop progress! lol after further inspection of others posts, I see why I was confused. "remove the splash pan" very few other people have these on their trucks in pictures. Mine is still there, so I was trying to figure out how the hell to get to those bolts. as I read further on posts, looks like they don't get put back on very often. Thanks.

 

You made a good decision to do this, whether it works out in the end or not. Hopefully all the nasty skank is in the oil pan. I'm sure most of it will be. While you are in there lube the bottom of the cylinder walls you can see with penetrating oil. Turn the crankshaft a bit and repeat procedure. Have you pulled the sparkplugs and poured anything down the holes yet to loosen the rings and lube the cylinders? A lot of old school guys like Marvel Mystery Oil. Anything you can do to free stuck rings will be good. I'd start on that now and let if work a few days. You'll want to turn the engine over to blow out the trash before you attempt a start. I'd use the starter at that point. Then replace the plugs when you are done turning the engine over. Good luck.

 

On the flat-6, I'd bet the lifter chest is a common hiding place. But that's a pretty hard area to access without pulling the manifolds. My impression is that few 6's ever had their valves adjusted, even tho it can be done with the manifolds in place. It would be nice to do it now and not have to get back in there.