Tips for a test start on Flathead 6
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
I did get some Marvel Mystery oil and plan on doing that to take a break from this splas pan and oil pan removal. If everything goes well with this startup then I will have a decision to make as to what to do from there. keep it bone stock and "revive" it, or have some point of reference for someone else to dig deeper if I decide to sell it. I would love to keep the engine, just not super hip on the suspension, transmission, and rearend! haha
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
On the flat-6, I'd bet the lifter chest is a common hiding place. But that's a pretty hard area to access without pulling the manifolds. My impression is that few 6's ever had their valves adjusted, even tho it can be done with the manifolds in place. It would be nice to do it now and not have to get back in there.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 692
Likes: 8
From: Roanoke, VA
I can verify that the valve chambers on the flat 6 are a hiding place for sludge. They are accessible now more than ever, and cleaning them out will help to keep your valves moving when she runs again.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 256
Break out the nitrile gloves, rags, and mineral spirits - start cleaning away. Make sure your crankcase holes are not plugged and same for the holes that connect each chamber. The bottom plates come out so clean those also. $100 days it's never been cleaned and the nastiest plAce in your truck.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
I am still learning and waiting for my manual. I have never gotten into an engine before... Ever! So after I remove the splash pan, and the oil pan, am I just looking straight up to the valves and cleaning or does it require removal of parts to get to? Sorry for dumb questions, but... I'm dumb! Lol
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
I am still learning and waiting for my manual. I have never gotten into an engine before... Ever! So after I remove the splash pan, and the oil pan, am I just looking straight up to the valves and cleaning or does it require removal of parts to get to? Sorry for dumb questions, but... I'm dumb! Lol
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
Last night I squirted that oil in the spark plug holes. It spun previous to the oil, and spun even easier after I added it. I think I will take fatfenders advise on this one. I'll take the pan off, clean as much as I can with getting too crazy an go from there. Hopefully once that hidden oil heats up, it cleans itself out a little when it starts to run... Hopefully
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Last night I squirted that oil in the spark plug holes. It spun previous to the oil, and spun even easier after I added it. I think I will take fatfenders advise on this one. I'll take the pan off, clean as much as I can with getting too crazy an go from there. Hopefully once that hidden oil heats up, it cleans itself out a little when it starts to run... Hopefully
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: Yakima, WA
I got the oil pan off, scraped, and cleaned. I have my fuel line set up, fan/crank spins smoothly, oil pump screen clean, have my 4-5 quarts of oil in it, and I got a 6v battery charger ready instead of battery, so now one last question before trying to turn it over. Do I need to prime the oil pump? I figure for the first go around I would unhook the coil and remove the plugs to check compression. I just want to make sure no damage can be done before priming. Also what compression should I be looking for on the first go?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,174
Likes: 4,781
From: Burbank, WA
I wouldn't bother with the compression check. Turning it over a few times with the coil unhooked is a good idea to get oil around everywhere before putting a load on everything. Watch the oil pressure gauge to see if it moves, if you have power to the gauges. (If not, then disregard) Give it 10 seconds or so of cranking (don't burn up the starter), then plug in the coil and give it a go.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Are all of your connections and cables sound? And good deal on the battery charger. It may not turn it over on its own, but it will be a good assist and recover fast. And as 52merc said be patient and keep the starter cranking time down or you'll be buying a starter before you proceed. May need one before it's over but no sense burning it up if it happens to have a year left in it.