Hey guys quick question. I have read about doing the swap on the leaf springs for ride comfort, towing, etc. I've got about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of space between the front bump stop (or whatever that's called). I don't do a whole lot of towing, but when I do it is usually a 14' utility trailer I own hauling dirt, helping people move, picking up fertilizer, usually not super heavy loads. I am thinking of just doing the v code/x code swap for the front, and the b code for the rear to level out the height difference from the v codes in the front. I have read about modded b codes for the rear, but I'm thinking that is more for people towing heavier loads like travel trailers and mountains. So my question is, am I OK for just getting the stock v code and b code springs and doing a straight swap on the excursion, or do I need anything more? Any info would be great, thanks guys!

Andrew Lowry
2000 Limited 6.8L V-10
Rancho RS9000XL's

 

Swapping in a set of V codes up front will raise the ride height some depending on your motor (on re-reading your post I see the V-10, so you should see about 1.77" of ride height increase from V codes), swapping in stock B codes will maintain the stock ride height. So you may end up with the droopy azz look or actually level. The B mod was developed to bring the rear up to match the new ride height from V codes without having the extra expense of the taller F-350 tapered blocks.

 

I have the B-mod's in addition to the V's and 2" drop hangers up front. It sits perfectly level unladen and rides well.

When towing my Chevelle on a 20' flatbed tandem axle, the rear still squats about 2" and the combination is barely 6300 pounds.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Is the main reason for doing the B mod to save a little money? (in addition to bringing the truck up to level) If I decided to just get the tapered F350 blocks do those just come in one size? What could I search for when looking to buy them? Thanks again!

 

It saves some money if you find a good set at the parts yard. New they aren't that much through our ATS sponsor on here (Junior).

A big reason to go to them is they're a stiffer spring which helps combat the axle wrap and associated passive rear steer which occurs during said wrap. They help eliminate some of the steering wander through this as well. They also have a higher load capacity IIRC, which helps a LOT towing. If I squat ~2" now, I cannot imagine how bad it would be on stock springs.

I wouldn't do just the tapered blocks as you'll be keeping the stock mushy springs, and you'll actually worsen their existing level of craptitude. The taller block will increase the leverage on the springs, exacerbating their tendency to wrap even more. Especially while towing with the low end torque the engine puts out.

 

Thx for the reply. In my last post when I said I'm thinking of just doing the tapered blocks I should have said I'm going to put the b codes on, and also the tapered blocks instead of doing the modification to them. I just re read that and the way I said it made it seem like I was just thinking of leaving the stock springs on. Sorry for the confusion! I'm having a shop do the swap so was just thinking of putting the tapered blocks on with the b's in the rear. Would I just go with the 4" tapered blocks for the 2000 F250/350? I can't seem to find 3.5" tapered blocks. Sorry for all the questions!

 

Krazee,

I'm looking at doing the same setup you have with V/B and 2" shackle... I don't want to hijack the thread, but what are the measurements from ground to fender, and center of the hub to fender?

Looks like it fits 35's nicely.

Also how does it ride vs stock... Firmer, same, etc?

Cheers

 

I have X/modded C's on mine with 5100 Bilstein's and love them. Best upgrade I've made so far. I have the 7.3 and the ride is 100x better. I've had them on for about a 6 months now and no complaints at all. Cost about $500 total (new from SD Truck Springs) and gained about 2.5". I tow a 9000 lb trailer through the mountains and it completely eliminated the wandering.

 

Why would you choose to use a block when the spring mod is so inexpensive?

 

Front and rear measure 26.25", I used brand new springs. 35's fit fine, originally I had 315/75R16's and have since up sized to 35x12.50R18's. With the new wheels being a -25 offset, I had to trim an inch off the bottom of the bumper to clear when turning over uneven terrain. It rides quite well, definitely firmer than stock but not overly so. Personally I'd like a little bit firmer, I'll be going to X and mod-C's come tax season.

Something to keep in mind, I used a full drop kit up front instead of just a 2" shackle. The shackle by itself won't provide the same measurements.

Not bashing, but it's information that's pertinent for future readers and researchers on this topic. The springs from SDTrucksprings are known and proven to have less capacity and softer rates than OEM springs. Just don't want someone to be expecting a different result if they source OEM springs.

 

Ajlowry I'm with andym one this one.
The taller F-350 blocks come both flat and tapered depending on what wheelbase truck they came on (cab configuration and bed length), for the trucks that had the same wheelbase as our EXs the proper blocks are the tapered ones. The taper keeps the correct pinion angle on the rear axle to avoid drive train vibrations, noise and wear.
The correct F-350 tapered blocks are part numbers 7C3Z5598B (left) and 7C3Z5598C (right), the last time I checked they are about $100 for the pair. The B code mod is about $5 in parts (new center bolt and nut) and with either upgrade you will be buying new longer U bolts. All of the other parts needed for the B mod are already under your EX, the bottom two leaves and the slightly thicker between leaf spacers/isolators from the stock EX rear springs can be liberated from the spring pack in about a minute of angle grinder time. The assembly of those parts into the new B codes should only take 15 minutes or so per spring pack. Even at typical shop rates the mod should be cheaper than the new blocks.
Your money, your choice.

 

[/QUOTE]Something to keep in mind, I used a full drop kit up front instead of just a 2" shackle. The shackle by itself won't provide the same measurements.



Not bashing, but it's information that's pertinent for future readers and researchers on this topic. The springs from SDTrucksprings are known and proven to have less capacity and softer rates than OEM springs. Just don't want someone to be expecting a different result if they source OEM springs.[/QUOTE]


What other components for the full drop?

Track bar, drop pitman, or anything else? Where'd u get parts from?

And thanks for the reference to the springs fro sd, I was curious about that. Looks like new OEM springs are about $200 per corner. Has anyone found a better price?

Cheers

 

The full drop kit reference means I have a 2" drop bracket up front and a 2" shackle in the rear. I also have an adjustable chromoly trackbar, but there are relocation brackets available at a cheaper cost. I prefer the adjustable as it allows for changes to the suspension while retaining the same unit and just adjusting the length to compensate. Plus it's substantially beefier than the stock unit.

At my height, the steering components are fine stock and I haven't had any issues in the 18 months or so I swapped springs. I sourced the drop kit and trackbar from Icon.

 

Listen to WE3ZS, he knows what he is talking about...with that out of the way my experience is similar to others who have already posted but more opinions are always better....right?

I too have a V10 and needed more stability for towing. I also wanted a taller stance as stock they just aren't "right". The previous owner had installed rear air bags which were retained after the mods listed below.

Started with ATS X/Mod C springs with Monomax shocks. Overall pretty happy as towing was FAR improved. I have no rear sway bar and have no plans to add one. I tow about 7K pounds and it handles it great, no WD hitch btw...which I know others aren't a fan of. For comparison handling is better than the 06' Ram Mega Cab I have towed the exact same load with. Only complaint is lack of isolators between the added leaf in the rear spring pack, no idea why those weren't included, the rear springs squeak as a result.


I added the Monomax shocks at the time of the spring swap, would go Bilstein if I could have a do over. I think the Monomax are too stiff but it could be the leafs, wont know until I change shocks...


Get an adjustable front trackbar. I know others have said stock has worked fine but I had issues with the axle being offset to the driver side and caused the spring to rub the perch...horrible squeaking noise that drove me nuts.


I made some 1" lift (2" longer than stock) front spring shackles also. The front was too low in my opinion and I plan to add a winch in the future.


I started with 285's and went to 315's about 2K miles ago. Towing power suffered a bit but the look is so much better (4.30 gears btw). These rigs are HUGE and 35's barely make them look proportional. I did space the front bumper out an inch as the shackles pushed the front axle forward slightly. Also drilled and tapped the steering knuckles for some additional steering stop as the 35's rubbed the springs at full steering lock.


Good luck and sorry for the long post, hopefully the info helps someone.