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I am constantly amazed by the endeavors shown on FTE. I was excited by my own meager effort to install a new door check stop rubber in the passenger door to prevent further contact between the door and fender. Persevere WB.
Ok, enough sniveling, just get after it. I got the running board off, not too tough to sawzall the brackets so they will be easy to weld back on. Rear fender off and the bulging side was an easy fix. Seems there were only 3 rivets holding the side to the floor angle iron piece, one was gone, one completely wollered out and one loose. Clamp it up and drill/bolt it back up.
This is progress???
The side that's pulled back in.
The side that's not.
Cracks on the inner wheel well that will need fixed to stiffen the whole rear side back up. This poor old truck went through hell on those rough Montana dirt 2 track roads.
Glad to see you bit the bullet and are going in deep. Are the current axles ok? Maybe you should just use them and some kind of cool engine and tranny. They look to fit well. Too slow for the wide open spaces? My employee called in sick (translation: hungover because the Seahawks won yesterday), so I decided to work on the woody. From what we have seen on repairing these panels I am trying to engineer things so it comes apart for repair a little better.
Thanks a LOT! now I gotta build a 4x4 tonner...... I measured my DD T-100 toyota 4x4 single cab. Same width and wheelbase as the '42-'47 tonner. Exactly 122" and it has 33 x 9.90 x 15s. Tall skinny and just an inch shorter than the 7.50 x 17s. It would be gutless, but everything I own is. Probably never happen anyhow.......
The front axle under it doesn't fit the hangers. It's just cobbled in there with 2 bolts and some chains. Steering is wrong, from a newer truck and plus my steering box is froze up solid. I don't think it will take much at all to mount the Scout axle and springs under it and make a bracket for the steering box. I might be able to used the rear springs as is but those hangers are worn out too. I'm thinking hangers and all from the scout rear. I might even be able to fit the scout gas tank between my rear frame rails.
Got a touch of flu and strep, better not lay on the ground any more today so I welded up the worn outside door handle shafts from the 40 and replaced the cream 47s with some purdy stainless ones. Set nice and straight too, no drooping (hate that droop, so easy to fix, took all of 20 minutes to do both)
The old panel tried to make a run for it while I was in the house. I went out and it was clear off the slab and in the circle drive. I guess the jack leaked down and it tipped off the jack stand. I got her lassoed and back where she belongs.
Is it a 122" tonner? It certainly has later 3/4 ton axles. If it goes in the sevens it's a steal for what I have into mine. Mine would be considered a starter project for most people. OK, most wouldn't even look at it. That panel is a very nice vehicle especially if it is indeed 'rust free'. That can mean a lot of different things as we have seen....
Yeah, pretty sure it's a 122. I have considered a roof rack for mine too. Great place to strap on fenders and such when hitting swap meets or picking. It's a long way up there though, would need a ladder too.
I would have called mine rust free too, until I started tearing it apart. It really has no cancer but there is a lot of metal that isn't as thick as it once was.
It still bugs me that they just painted over all the lug nuts and hubs. How much work is it to pull the wheels to paint them? Little things like that are a huge red flag to me on what kind of other lazy-a**ed stuff they did when building it. Might be why it only brought half of what it seems like it should. I shouldn't nitpick something that looks better than mine ever will but it wouldn't have taken much to make the interior a lot nicer. Like kick panels, something besides an old household carpet remnant and JC whitney seat covers. If you pick a level a car is going to be finished to, the whole vehicle needs to be finished to that level.
i want to remove most of the dents in my roof, my budget doesn,t plan for a interior liner (for a while, maybe never). so i want a nice roof inside and out. seems like they must of used alot of bondo the inside looks kind of rough. nice looking panel thought!
i want to remove most of the dents in my roof, my budget doesn,t plan for a interior liner (for a while, maybe never). so i want a nice roof inside and out. seems like they must of used alot of bondo the inside looks kind of rough. nice looking panel thought!
Bernette you make a good point there about the inside of the roof and all the bondo used. It's a good bet he used 2 five gallon pails of it. I suppose I can handle the fact that some guy might like the look of color matched wheels/hubs/ nuts (Personally I hate it, but I hate a lot of what I see on 'restored' vehicles), but I just looked at the photos again and the windshield rubber was the thing that would have scared me off as to the shoddy workmanship in this thing. It's like half way painted over in spots. Who does this? And what the heck was he hauling on the roof with that highly engineered internal cage to brace the roof rack? All that said, it was still a good deal if that's what it sold for. It was a St Vincent DePaul auction. I think people typically donate cars to them to be hauled away. Perhaps the widow? One of the guys on the '48-'56 group has a signature that goes something like this: "I have this fear that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for what I told her I paid for it".......
Even more red flags that I missed. Do you suppose the outside of the roof looked like that and they just filled it with bondo?
I can't imagine how one could suppose anything else. There's the inside, there's the outside. I once knew a 'woodworker' who filled all his bad joints and low spots with wood dough. We nick-named the guy ' Legends in Putty'. Maybe this was his brother 'Legends in Bondo'.....
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.