When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also as far as DOT is concerned the factory GVWR means nothing. They look at the licensed weight of the truck/ trailer. You can, if you want license an F-150 for 80K, you couldn't haul it but you can license it that way, and you would need a CDL to drive it.
The DRW bed is different, the opening is bigger and has mounting holes for the fenders. Just get a bed off a 99-2010.
The DRW rear end is a Dana 80 so the yoke and drive shaft length may be different, the rwd drive shafts are two piece so just get one from a salvage yard. The springs and sway bar are heavier so I would try and get a rear end with them ready there.
The rwd front spacers are part of the rotor so the rotors have to be replaced and I think that the F350 has a heavier I Beam than the F250 so the spindles may be different.
One easy way to confirm what parts are interchangeable is to go to the Rock Auto site and look up parts for the F250 and F350 DRW and see of they are the same. Be sure to check rear rotors and calipers, front calipers, spindles and bearings, shocks and so on. Hang on to something when you price front rotors for a RWD DRW.
The DRW bed is different, the opening is bigger and has mounting holes for the fenders. Just get a bed off a 99-2010.
The DRW rear end is a Dana 80 so the yoke and drive shaft length may be different, the rwd drive shafts are two piece so just get one from a salvage yard. The springs and sway bar are heavier so I would try and get a rear end with them ready there.
The rwd front spacers are part of the rotor so the rotors have to be replaced and I think that the F350 has a heavier I Beam than the F250 so the spindles may be different.
One easy way to confirm what parts are interchangeable is to go to the Rock Auto site and look up parts for the F250 and F350 DRW and see of they are the same. Be sure to check rear rotors and calipers, front calipers, spindles and bearings, shocks and so on. Hang on to something when you price front rotors for a RWD DRW.
Denny
I have no issue cutting the rear wheel well openings out and drilling mounting holes for the fenders, but after looking at prices a complete bed with everything is the way to go because my current tailgate is pretty beat up.
My current rear driveshaft has a good bit of travel in the slip joint, so I'm pretty sure length would be ok, I just need to verify that the flange on the Dana axle will have the bolt pattern to match my driveshaft.
Good info on the rotors, I was hoping I could just add the spacers. If not, I may try to get a complete rotor to rotor 4x4 front axle with springs, hangers, track bar, and steering linkage and put that under the front and I'll be that much closer to a 4wd conversion when I get to that part.
I'm not too concerned with the rear brake parts, because all the axles I've looked at are complete from rotor to rotor and I even found one that the guy said I could have it with springs and tires still attached for $2K.
I wish I could just find a 4wd DRW 350 with a blown engine and maybe some body damage to the cab, trashed interior, etc... that would have all the parts I need in good condition, but people think these SDs are worth their weight in gold no matter how trashed they are!
I've been trying to find Ford parts fiche online, IDK why I didn't think of RockAuto.
In my search for used parts I came across an ad from a guy with a white 1999 F350 Lariat DRW long bed with 284,000 miles that says he is interested in trading for a SRW super cab truck. Mine is a 2003 with 157,000 miles. Still may be a decent straight across title for title trade. I'll have to think on it. My taxes and insurance would probably go up a little, but maybe not as much with an older truck. Then I could dive right into the 4wd conversion. I know the 7.3 has less pulling power than my 6.0, but it has a track record of being longer lasting and more dependable. Decisions, decisions...
EDIT -
IDK... I just looked up the specs and it's actually 125HP and 135ftlb of torque less on the '99 7.3 than on the '03 6.0. That's a pretty big power loss! I know puling 7,000lbs is no big task for any of these diesel trucks, but the whole situation changes an awful lot when you start climbing a steep grade in the mountains with that same load behind you.
Opinions on this are more than welcome from anyone who has towed with both engines.
Still undecided if I want to mod my current truck or take this guys trade. Can I mod the 7.3 to bring it up to or slightly above stock 6.0 power levels without having to get into any internals like head studs or piston rods?
I'm starting to lean that way. The guy with the '99 is starting to act flaky, which makes it hard to believe anything he's telling me. And I'm pretty sure that truck has been worked very hard. My truck has been used, but not hard at all. the guy I got it from (the second owner) used it to haul stuff in the bed and rarely towed with it. And I've only towed a max of around 8,000lbs. Not to mention I will enjoy the axle swaps, etc. but I'm kind of over engine work and power mods. I'm thinking bumping the gear ratio to 4.10 will give me enough of a performance gain to make me happy. The only thing I will still miss will be the crew cab as my current truck is only a super cab.
So, I guess I'm back to picking through parts listings and searching for info and used parts. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.