Good to know about the locks. Today after testing I came to the conclusion that both power lock equipment and power window equipment is toast. I cut all the wires from door to cab and hit the ones coming from cab with the test light. All wires were in working order using the driver main switch. Reconnected the wires from cab to corresponding wires from door with temporary alligator clipped wires. Got good power to the door wires. Traced the window wires to the rear door window switch and tested all wires on the switch. Switch was working properly and no life was shown by the window motor. Couldn't get in to test if window motor was actually receiving power (or plugged in for that matter) or not so will do that tomorrow (ran out of light). Did same technique for the power locks. Again no dice but didn't have enough time to check/pull the connector off the actuator to see if it's receiving power as it should. Will do tomorrow. If this is true about the manually being able to unlock the rear doors by means of pressing down or pulling up on the lock stub I doubt it's in working order as I can't press the stub down or up. Post more findings tomorrow.

 

there are 5 wires going to each door for the window. All 5 need to be connected in order to work.

Then 2 for the door lock

 

I'm thinking you mean 5 wires going to the window switch in each door. Aren't there only three going to the door? Red/black, red/light blue and yellow/black? These three connect to the window switch in the door and then 2 wires go from the switch to the motor: red/yellow and yellow/red.

 

I forget what exactly was but I'm pretty sure this is right. The switch on the rear door has 5 connecting points, two the Controlled by the up/down switch on the drivers main switch panel for that corresponding window and two that the actual switch on the rear door will engage plus one wire that's always hot when key is in the prestart (wait to start) position. There was a total of 7 wires going into the door. Three of which were for the window controls...
1 being the always hot
1 being the wire that becomes hot when you hit the switch down from driver seat
1 being the wire that becomes hot when you hit the switch up from driver seat
Four wires are for the locking electricals
1 always hot
1 ground
1 hot when unlocked by buttons in driver/passenger seat
1 hot when locked by buttons in driver/passenger seat
This information could be wrong as I did it at t 8 o clock yesterday morning but pretty sure it's correct.
I Also discovered that you can NOT unlock the rear doors with the interior handle if the doors are locked. You must pull the lock stub up to open the doors. The rear driver door lock works manually (pulling/pushing lock stub out/in) but no dice using power actuator. Going to gut the door and bench test the window motors and lock actuators next.

 

Yes, 5 wires Per Rear door for the window functions
2 Per rear door for the lock