Replacement Crew Cab Doors
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Replacement Crew Cab Doors
Need to replace the rear doors on my 1995 F350 Crew Cab. The truck has power windows and power locks but all I can seam to come across are non-power doors. Would the non-power doors have the mounts for factory power equipment and would the powered door panels fit on the non-powered door shell? Pretty much everything on the current powered doors is shot. Passenger side door power window and locks are broke and interior and exterior handles don't work. Passenger side door is essentially junk. On the driver side door the only part I know that works for sure is the interior handle. The wires connecting to the door rotted and broke (or previous owner cut). The power locking mechanism is busted for sure and I'd have to guess the power window mechanism is too. So what do y'all think I should do? Buy manual doors and convert them using universal power accessory kits (wiring's already there so shouldn't be too hard as far as wiring goes) or buy manual doors and convert them using OEM Equipment (given the mounts would be there on the manual doors)?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
Need to replace the rear doors on my 1995 F350 Crew Cab. The truck has power windows and power locks but all I can seam to come across are non-power doors. Would the non-power doors have the mounts for factory power equipment and would the powered door panels fit on the non-powered door shell? Pretty much everything on the current powered doors is shot. Passenger side door power window and locks are broke and interior and exterior handles don't work. Passenger side door is essentially junk. On the driver side door the only part I know that works for sure is the interior handle. The wires connecting to the door rotted and broke (or previous owner cut). The power locking mechanism is busted for sure and I'd have to guess the power window mechanism is too. So what do y'all think I should do? Buy manual doors and convert them using universal power accessory kits (wiring's already there so shouldn't be too hard as far as wiring goes) or buy manual doors and convert them using OEM Equipment (given the mounts would be there on the manual doors)?
The doors are the same(that goes with EVERY DOOR).
As for aftermarket JUNK parts? NO, I would just leave the doors manual until you have time to fix the Stock parts.
Also, chances are nothing is wrong with the parts in the door, but the harness that goes from the cab to the door has broken wires in it
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Yeah like I said the wiring is cut right at the door hinge. Haven't gotten around to using a test light to see if they are broke else where other then right at door hinge or if the main driver switch block is bad but doubt the main driver switch block is bad because it works for the driver and passenger front windows and locks. When I say the factory power locks are busted I mean I can't even manually lock them or anything. Only thing keeping someone from breaking into the truck is the fact that the exterior handles on the rear doors don't work either. The passenger side door doesn't even have the locking mechanism in the door anymore, nor does it have the power window equipment. Good to know the manual doors will have the mounts for the power equipment though. Just going to buy manual doors and convert them to factory power equipment. Read some reviews online about aftermarker "Universal" power window systems and seams that there is one brand that is pretty reliable most of the time but never had problems with any factory power accessories in any of my other trucks before so think I'll just pay a few more dollars and stick to factory power equipment.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Menifee, CA
Yeah like I said the wiring is cut right at the door hinge. Haven't gotten around to using a test light to see if they are broke else where other then right at door hinge or if the main driver switch block is bad but doubt the main driver switch block is bad because it works for the driver and passenger front windows and locks. When I say the factory power locks are busted I mean I can't even manually lock them or anything. Only thing keeping someone from breaking into the truck is the fact that the exterior handles on the rear doors don't work either. The passenger side door doesn't even have the locking mechanism in the door anymore, nor does it have the power window equipment. Good to know the manual doors will have the mounts for the power equipment though. Just going to buy manual doors and convert them to factory power equipment. Read some reviews online about aftermarker "Universal" power window systems and seams that there is one brand that is pretty reliable most of the time but never had problems with any factory power accessories in any of my other trucks before so think I'll just pay a few more dollars and stick to factory power equipment.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Menifee, CA
Yeah like I said the wiring is cut right at the door hinge. Haven't gotten around to using a test light to see if they are broke else where other then right at door hinge or if the main driver switch block is bad but doubt the main driver switch block is bad because it works for the driver and passenger front windows and locks. When I say the factory power locks are busted I mean I can't even manually lock them or anything. Only thing keeping someone from breaking into the truck is the fact that the exterior handles on the rear doors don't work either. The passenger side door doesn't even have the locking mechanism in the door anymore, nor does it have the power window equipment. Good to know the manual doors will have the mounts for the power equipment though. Just going to buy manual doors and convert them to factory power equipment. Read some reviews online about aftermarker "Universal" power window systems and seams that there is one brand that is pretty reliable most of the time but never had problems with any factory power accessories in any of my other trucks before so think I'll just pay a few more dollars and stick to factory power equipment.
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I believe the rear doors are different than the front comma in the regard that if the doors are unlocked, you can't push down good luck to manually lock the vehicle. Also, in the front door, if the door is locked you can pull up on the handle and the door will unlock to open. In the rear doors that isn't the case. So just fixing those wires might hear your problems.
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I never sit in the rear seat of my own truck so I may be wrong, but the power locks cannot be manually locked on the rear doors unless you remove a certain mechanism inside the lock linkage. with the front doors you can pull up the handle if the door is locked and they will still unlocked and then open, the rear doors won't do that.
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From: Menifee, CA
that button does lockout the windows. I'm going to guess it is some type of safety feature, but the real problem is if you are in a catastrophic accident and you have the doors locked while you were driving, if those doors were still able to open physically, they wouldn't be able to if you had a loss of electrical power
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that button does lockout the windows. I'm going to guess it is some type of safety feature, but the real problem is if you are in a catastrophic accident and you have the doors locked while you were driving, if those doors were still able to open physically, they wouldn't be able to if you had a loss of electrical power
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
I believe the rear doors are different than the front comma in the regard that if the doors are unlocked, you can't push down good luck to manually lock the vehicle. Also, in the front door, if the door is locked you can pull up on the handle and the door will unlock to open. In the rear doors that isn't the case. So just fixing those wires might hear your problems.
I never sit in the rear seat of my own truck so I may be wrong, but the power locks cannot be manually locked on the rear doors unless you remove a certain mechanism inside the lock linkage. with the front doors you can pull up the handle if the door is locked and they will still unlocked and then open, the rear doors won't do that.
But on my '97 F-250HD CCSB the power and manual actuation of the rear door locks is completely independent of each other. You can lock or unlock them, either with the power actuator or by pulling/pushing the **** manually. I've never seen any vehicle that was intended to be anything different from that either.
The front is essentially the same, except that the ***** go down flush with the panel when the door is locked, so you can't grab them to unlock them manually (but you could if the ***** were longer, or not screwed on as far). But it's not an issue because, as you said, you can open the front doors with the inside handle even if the door is locked (it unlocks the door in the process). And also as you said, that's not true of the rear doors. They must be unlocked (either by pulling up the **** or using the power actuator) before they can be opened from the inside or the outside.
And you said in your last post, the "lock" button is just for the windows. It disables the power window switches on the 3 doors other than the driver's door. The window switches on the driver's door and the power locks (on both front doors) still work when that button is pushed.
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From: Menifee, CA
I'm not entirely sure what all of that means (I'm thinking you might not have proof-read everything your smart phone thought you meant?).
But on my '97 F-250HD CCSB the power and manual actuation of the rear door locks is completely independent of each other. You can lock or unlock them, either with the power actuator or by pulling/pushing the **** manually. I've never seen any vehicle that was intended to be anything different from that either.
The front is essentially the same, except that the ***** go down flush with the panel when the door is locked, so you can't grab them to unlock them manually (but you could if the ***** were longer, or not screwed on as far). But it's not an issue because, as you said, you can open the front doors with the inside handle even if the door is locked (it unlocks the door in the process). And also as you said, that's not true of the rear doors. They must be unlocked (either by pulling up the **** or using the power actuator) before they can be opened from the inside or the outside.
And you said in your last post, the "lock" button is just for the windows. It disables the power window switches on the 3 doors other than the driver's door. The window switches on the driver's door and the power locks (on both front doors) still work when that button is pushed.
But on my '97 F-250HD CCSB the power and manual actuation of the rear door locks is completely independent of each other. You can lock or unlock them, either with the power actuator or by pulling/pushing the **** manually. I've never seen any vehicle that was intended to be anything different from that either.
The front is essentially the same, except that the ***** go down flush with the panel when the door is locked, so you can't grab them to unlock them manually (but you could if the ***** were longer, or not screwed on as far). But it's not an issue because, as you said, you can open the front doors with the inside handle even if the door is locked (it unlocks the door in the process). And also as you said, that's not true of the rear doors. They must be unlocked (either by pulling up the **** or using the power actuator) before they can be opened from the inside or the outside.
And you said in your last post, the "lock" button is just for the windows. It disables the power window switches on the 3 doors other than the driver's door. The window switches on the driver's door and the power locks (on both front doors) still work when that button is pushed.
interesting that you mention about the lock *****, mine in the rear are flush when the doors are locked, I didn't know that they would be any different so that makes a lot of sense.
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From: Menifee, CA
I think the problem with the rear doors in my truck is at the linkage was messed up. The previous owner tried to do some work without replacing the dead power locks so perhaps that is why they don't stick up further
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
The threads are the same so someone could have put shorter front ***** on the rear doors too. If it were my truck though I'd do something about it so I could grab the rear *****. I wouldn't want to have to rely on the power actuators.