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I am about to take the heads off my truck next week. I have rebuilt heads for a 302 and a 351W in the past (16-17 years ago) but never a 351M. I have new valve springs, keepers, and seals, and I just ordered new rocker arms and push rods. Also have new ARP head bolts, intake bolts and appropriate gaskets. I plan on gasket matching the heads as well. Are there any tricks or warnings that I need to look out for while doing this, or is it going to be the same as the 302 and 351W? Any help will be appreciated.
Finally got around to removing my heads. Once I got them on the bench, I started disassembling them. I picked up a valve spring compressor from e bay for $60, it's pretty heavy duty too. I took the bare heads, valve covers, and intake manifold to the hobby shop on base to give them a good cleaning in the parts washer. I ordered a polishing kit from SR for $32 last week, not bad imo. Started grinding down the thermal humps in the exhaust ports and smoothing out the intake side, while removing some casting imperfections, with my dye grinder. The polishing kit is well worth the money, btw. I was surprised how easy it is to do this. I am able to gasket match the heads pretty easy, but it is time consuming. It took me three hours to do one head. I am doing the other tomorrow.
Heads disassembled (sorry it's so blurry, I was hungry)
The only cylinder that didn't look too good, all the rest looked okay.
Damn thermal humps.
Thermal hump gone.
Smoothed out and lookin pretty.
One head finished and ready for another cleaning before reassembly.
Nah! Just gonna clean them and lap them. I inspected every valve and seat. I was very surprised to see that they were all in great shape. I rolled the valve stems on my table saw as well, all straight as an arrow.
I have been told to leave the intake runners alone, gasket match to no more than 1/2" into them. They need the rough surface to atomize the fuel/air mixture and they flow pretty good as is. Do what you will with the exhaust runners though. These are restricted to the point of almost choking the engine. Good luck on the project. Pops.
I have been told to leave the intake runners alone, gasket match to no more than 1/2" into them. They need the rough surface to atomize the fuel/air mixture and they flow pretty good as is. Do what you will with the exhaust runners though. These are restricted to the point of almost choking the engine. Good luck on the project. Pops.
You are correct, i would have them checked for cracks, i went threw 4 sets that were cracked.
Too late. Already gasket matched and smoothed. I did only go in about 3/4" on the intake side but I did smooth them as good as I could. We will see how they act and I will give feed back. This has kinda turned into a trial and error project any way.
Finished it all up today, finally. I get my new exhaust installed on Wednesday and I can't wait. From the headers, I'm running 2 1/2" to a single 3", to the muffler with 2 1/2" duels exiting straight out back. I will try to post a video of it on here of the whole thing and let you guys (and gals) know if the porting and polishing was worth the trouble.
Don't do it. With the very little that I removed, I now have a cracked head, coolant seeping into #1 cylinder. It's like a steam engine coming out of the exhaust. Oh well. Luckily I know a guy that has some nice 4V 351C heads for $200. So she will sit for a little while till it warms up a bit outside.
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