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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

292 draft tube question

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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #1  
mad murdock's Avatar
mad murdock
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From: Lancaster
292 draft tube question

Good evening all.... I'm pretty sure this is my draft tube, on my 1960 292. I dont know a whole bunch about them, I'm curious if this can be replaced by a PCV valve ?? and if so, how do I go about blocking this thing off ?

draft tube ?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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You can convert to a PCV system, but it requires some modification. Don't just block it off there's more to it than that. I don't see the necessity frankly, keep clean oil in the crankcase and avoid short trips. Less to go wrong with a road draft system.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:01 PM
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Danleig
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This should help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 09:31 AM
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hiball3985
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If you decide to go to a PCV system the major problem is finding the correct valley cover to use.

I'm using one from a 61-64, they are getting harder to find and expensive. There is a block off plate for where the draft tube is, very similar to the one you have for the fuel pump. They were used on early 55-56 T birds. I found one new OEM one Ebay for $9.95. I'm sure the T Bird suppliers have them.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:14 AM
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hardlyrider
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John Mummert sells a valley cover and PVC grommet for conversion.

HOME PAGE
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 07:49 PM
  #6  
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mad murdock
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when you say "valley cover"...... are you talking about the cover under the intake manifold ? or the valve cover ? if I have to put the PCV valve in the valley cover...... well that already sounds like too much effort. I haven't started this motor yet, (close) soon hopefully), I just remember on the old motors, my dad would convert them to a PCV valve...... but hey, if the draft tube works. I just figured it was a bigger potential for oil leaks.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #7  
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mad murdock
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this truck has been quite the learning curve. it's just old enough to be out my normal area of "been there done that"
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 09:57 PM
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hardlyrider
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Originally Posted by mad murdock
when you say "valley cover"...... are you talking about the cover under the intake manifold ? or the valve cover ?
Yes, the cover under the intake. Really no need to convert. As the old saying goes: "If it ain't broke . . ."
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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Y-blocks are a little different, for example with the exhaust crossover pipe in front of the engine, distributor at the back of the engine (PITA to get to); Solid lifters, you'll want to check and adjust the valve lash for piece of mind. Look up Walt Nuckels and his 1/4 turn adjustment method for valve lash, give it a try and see what you think.

They had a reputation for poor upper oiling but using modern detergent oils this doesn't seem to be an issue. Firing order is 15486372, the front passenger side cylinder is #1.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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thanks for the info..... and yes I have realized that the Y block is a little different. But solid lifters !! ooh my. more learning curve coming my way. this motor hasn't ran in 5-years, I've been dealing with finishing the tranny swap, working my way toward firing her. I should probably check the lifters before I fire it yeah ?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 07:27 PM
  #11  
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As far as the draft tube...... well, if it works, I'll paint it.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:16 PM
  #12  
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hiball3985
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Originally Posted by mad murdock
thanks for the info..... and yes I have realized that the Y block is a little different. But solid lifters !! ooh my. more learning curve coming my way. this motor hasn't ran in 5-years, I've been dealing with finishing the tranny swap, working my way toward firing her. I should probably check the lifters before I fire it yeah ?
It wouldn't hurt to remove the valve covers and turn the engine over watching the valve action. Sometimes on engines that haven't run for a few years you could have a stuck valve that will let a push rod drop out. Don't worry about valve adjustment until after you fire it up and ran for a while, they are best adjusted HOT. Also check that oil is getting to the rocker arms. When you first fire it up run the rpm up, don't let it idle, the higher rpm is needed to splash oil on the cam and lifters..
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:50 PM
  #13  
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Awesome thanks for the heads up. I'm trying to get it running to verify motor and trans work, before I start dumping a lot of $$,
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:01 PM
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Yeah, it would be a good idea to pull the valve covers and at least take a look see.

Have adjusted the valve lash hot and cold, using the 1/4 turn method engine stone cold and it sure seems to work fine to me and no burning yourself on those upswept exhaust manifolds, no feeler gauges required, and it's also consistent between all cylinders. I believe this method gets them a lot closer to .019" hot or cold. It's easier too, and this makes it more likely people will actually do it.

Also like to run marvels mystery oil in the fuel and crankcase in an old engine like that (at least at first), it does help keep from stuck lifters and rings. Keep clean, fresh oil in the motor and they will run forever.

Many people think Y blocks have some of the best exhaust notes of any V8, with the possible exception of the Flathead. Getting dual rams horn exhaust and porter mufflers installed on my 64 right now so I'm gonna find out if I agree with that soon. To avoid severe separation anxiety in the meantime I have been prescribing myself Rx as-needed YouTube videos of Y blocks screaming on test stands and such.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #15  
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Ram horns...... NICE. when I was at that point I couldn't find any one that had any in stock, I really like the look. I ended up putting a set of patriot headers on, but I really like the ram horns. porter mufflers ? nice sound ?
 
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