Help....Drum to drum distribution block needed
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: New Hampshire
Help....Drum to drum distribution block needed
Trying to get the *&^% dash brake light to shut off.
Looking for a drum to drum distribution block for my 1975 F250 Highboy.
Currently the block is off truck(so truck no worky) and soaking in PB blaster to try and get piston moving again with no luck so far.
Bleed procedure didn't work, nor did Air pressure or the "lashing-block-to-a-hammer-and-banging-hammer-on-an-anvil" trick work.
As a extreme measure, thinking of drilling a hole on the back side of the block and pushing the plunger/piston thru; would thread the new hole and run a bolt into it to seal the hole up.
Anyone have a drum to drum block available??
Do any non vehicle specific aftermarket parts exists?
Many thanks
tbruz
Looking for a drum to drum distribution block for my 1975 F250 Highboy.
Currently the block is off truck(so truck no worky) and soaking in PB blaster to try and get piston moving again with no luck so far.
Bleed procedure didn't work, nor did Air pressure or the "lashing-block-to-a-hammer-and-banging-hammer-on-an-anvil" trick work.
As a extreme measure, thinking of drilling a hole on the back side of the block and pushing the plunger/piston thru; would thread the new hole and run a bolt into it to seal the hole up.
Anyone have a drum to drum block available??
Do any non vehicle specific aftermarket parts exists?
Many thanks
tbruz
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Assuming that the valve was going to work right again, you probably, majorly, screwed up by soaking the valve with PB Blaster.
The rubber brake seals and O-rings in the brake system are designed to be compatible with synthetic fluids --like DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 brake fluid. They are NOT compatible with petroleum-based fluids/solvents like WD-40, PB Blaster, etc.
The seals will swell, split and fail if they come in contact with petroleum-based products. If the residue from these oils gets into the brake system and makes contact with the caliper or wheel cylinder seals, they will fail too.
If your brake valve is just the pressure differential valve (no metering or proportioning functions inside it), Muscle Car Research has rebuild seals for that valve.
The rubber brake seals and O-rings in the brake system are designed to be compatible with synthetic fluids --like DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 brake fluid. They are NOT compatible with petroleum-based fluids/solvents like WD-40, PB Blaster, etc.
The seals will swell, split and fail if they come in contact with petroleum-based products. If the residue from these oils gets into the brake system and makes contact with the caliper or wheel cylinder seals, they will fail too.
If your brake valve is just the pressure differential valve (no metering or proportioning functions inside it), Muscle Car Research has rebuild seals for that valve.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: New Hampshire
It is just a pressure differential valve on a 1975 4x4 with front and rear drums; not a proportion or metering valve. Also the block is off the truck so no worries about contamination of the rest of the hydraulics with PB blaster; I can clean the block out really well once I get the piston out.
I just want to shut off the damn light and have the system working as ford designed it.
Seals to rebuild are available once I can get the piston out.
Thanks
Tbruz
I just want to shut off the damn light and have the system working as ford designed it.
Seals to rebuild are available once I can get the piston out.
Thanks
Tbruz
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From: New Hampshire
Still looking for this brake distribution block.
It can come off of a 73,74 or a 75 F250 4x4.
It's pn C8TZ 2B257 C
Hoping someone had/ has one from a drum to disc axle swap
Thanks
Tbruz
It can come off of a 73,74 or a 75 F250 4x4.
It's pn C8TZ 2B257 C
Hoping someone had/ has one from a drum to disc axle swap
Thanks
Tbruz
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
There's a Ford NOS pressure differential valve currently listed on eBay. It isn't dirt cheap but it's also a new, in the box item, and not a used component of unknown condition.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1968-1973-FORD-F250-BRAKE-PRESSURE-DIFFERENTIAL-VALVE-/351582304733?nav=SEARCH
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1968-1973-FORD-F250-BRAKE-PRESSURE-DIFFERENTIAL-VALVE-/351582304733?nav=SEARCH
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From: New Hampshire
Spoke with them today; its not the correct part number and it only has 4 ports versus the 5 needed for the 1975 F250 with drums all around.
May grab it in a pinch, but i'm really hoping someone has a 73 74 or 75 F250 correct part.
Thanks,
tbruz
May grab it in a pinch, but i'm really hoping someone has a 73 74 or 75 F250 correct part.
Thanks,
tbruz
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,170
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Seems like since you tried the push or pull the pin on the end trick with no luck. And just could not by pass the light buy jumping the switch plug?? (NOT the preferred technique).
Advanced search there is a thread that cover an in depth pro valve rebuild, I have no luck finding it....but I do remember it.
And maybe these pics and info will help? But probably not since this is not really what you have.
Advanced search there is a thread that cover an in depth pro valve rebuild, I have no luck finding it....but I do remember it.
And maybe these pics and info will help? But probably not since this is not really what you have.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: New Hampshire
Its similar to the pic that 77&79F250 posted, although mine has 5 ports not the 4 his shows(also 77&79F250s pic and the posted diagram next to the pic do not match)
Here's a pic of mine:
Should not be a black plug on the left side as that is where I drilled to push out the balance rod.
My block is leaking brake fluid thru the switch, so my o-rings must have failed.
I have a new set on order and will try that first.
Also have another block coming from a fellow member; will be trying to rebuild that one in case mine is trash.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions folks; trying to keep this old truck working the way Ford made it back in the 70's
tbruz
Here's a pic of mine:
Should not be a black plug on the left side as that is where I drilled to push out the balance rod.
My block is leaking brake fluid thru the switch, so my o-rings must have failed.
I have a new set on order and will try that first.
Also have another block coming from a fellow member; will be trying to rebuild that one in case mine is trash.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions folks; trying to keep this old truck working the way Ford made it back in the 70's
tbruz
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,170
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I never said the pic of the actual one did match the diagrams. I was posting the diagrams hoping they might help show what might be inside yours, that is all.
Sounds like you have a handle on it now, congrats.
Sounds like you have a handle on it now, congrats.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Its similar to the pic that 77&79F250 posted, although mine has 5 ports not the 4 his shows(also 77&79F250s pic and the posted diagram next to the pic do not match)
Here's a pic of mine:
Should not be a black plug on the left side as that is where I drilled to push out the balance rod.
My block is leaking brake fluid thru the switch, so my o-rings must have failed.
I have a new set on order and will try that first.
Also have another block coming from a fellow member; will be trying to rebuild that one in case mine is trash.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions folks; trying to keep this old truck working the way Ford made it back in the 70's
tbruz
Here's a pic of mine:
Should not be a black plug on the left side as that is where I drilled to push out the balance rod.
My block is leaking brake fluid thru the switch, so my o-rings must have failed.
I have a new set on order and will try that first.
Also have another block coming from a fellow member; will be trying to rebuild that one in case mine is trash.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions folks; trying to keep this old truck working the way Ford made it back in the 70's
tbruz
The pressure differential valve you have is common on all Bumpside F100 through F350 trucks --even on the '68-'72 F250 and F350 trucks that had optional front disc brakes. Bumpside F100s didn't come with factory front discs (there were only drums all the way around on the Bumpside F100s).
The only brake valve component difference between the Bumpside F100 and the disc brake equipped Bumpside F250/F350 trucks was a stand-alone metering valve plumbed in the front brake circuit. On the all-wheel drum Bumpside F100/F250/F350s, the metering valve was simply left out.
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