Door spacing adjustment
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: Front Range & Gunnison
Door spacing adjustment
Howdy folks,
Looking to adjust the spacing of both the doors on my '76 F250 4x4. Both of them are too far forward. (I'd post a pic but I'm not w/ my truck right now). I searched this forum using "door spacing", "door adjustment", and I've Googled Youtube for the same. Nothing of use popped up. One interesting link was this:
Hinge Tweaker
for a tool that facilitates bending the hinges back into their original shape. I cannot make sense of how this would work to move the doors essentially straight back.
Am I missing something incredibly obvious? If there is a link to a video or reference document, please send it along. Or just share your tricks.
Thank you.
Mac J.
Looking to adjust the spacing of both the doors on my '76 F250 4x4. Both of them are too far forward. (I'd post a pic but I'm not w/ my truck right now). I searched this forum using "door spacing", "door adjustment", and I've Googled Youtube for the same. Nothing of use popped up. One interesting link was this:
Hinge Tweaker
for a tool that facilitates bending the hinges back into their original shape. I cannot make sense of how this would work to move the doors essentially straight back.
Am I missing something incredibly obvious? If there is a link to a video or reference document, please send it along. Or just share your tricks.
Thank you.
Mac J.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 14
Theres 2 ways to move the door back, the best way is like said above,take the door off and move the hinges back and hope the you got them lined up right. The simple way and is done a lot, go down to your local auto store or even body shop, buy 6 or each, body shims. Id get 1/8 thick and 1/16 thickness. Do 1 hinge at a time, the shim will go between the hinge flange and the door, close the door slowly to make sure it will shut ok, most guy's take the striker post right out also when doing this. 
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,783
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
You will not need that tool, by no means. Just some patience and some shims like Bud Mud said.
Are you sure the door hinges are bent, they are pretty heavy duty. Have you or someone else had the front fenders or front clip off, and maybe put them or it back on to far back?
Before you remove the striker, shapie mark around it to aid in reinstalling it back in it original position. That way you will not be chasing that all over the place too come reinstall time.
To hold the height you need use some regular house door frame wooden shims. Also set the height using the "dent" body lines from the small cab section dent..
Using a fender dent for the front of the door is touch and go, it all depends if the fender to cowl gaps are good.
Are you sure the door hinges are bent, they are pretty heavy duty. Have you or someone else had the front fenders or front clip off, and maybe put them or it back on to far back?
Before you remove the striker, shapie mark around it to aid in reinstalling it back in it original position. That way you will not be chasing that all over the place too come reinstall time.
To hold the height you need use some regular house door frame wooden shims. Also set the height using the "dent" body lines from the small cab section dent..
Using a fender dent for the front of the door is touch and go, it all depends if the fender to cowl gaps are good.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: Front Range & Gunnison
Thanks....as always.
Thank you, boys!! I love this forum!
Next chance I have to work on the problem will be Thanksgiving week. But I'll take all the stuff y'all have recommended up with me.
Rich, I'm not sure if the hinges are bent or not, nor can I say what's been done to the front end. My truck is a metallic gold color that was most likely done with a rattle can. However, the driver's side hinge is a navy blue, in all likelihood a replacement at some point.
I'm backlogged on a couple of repair items on which I owe you guys reports; steering wheel squeak and valve cover leaking. Hopefully, I'll have some time and reasonable temps over Thanksgiving to work on each. Although, at 8964' I could easily be facing a couple feet of snow. Then it's on to the SkiDoo forum!
Thanks again.
Next chance I have to work on the problem will be Thanksgiving week. But I'll take all the stuff y'all have recommended up with me.
Rich, I'm not sure if the hinges are bent or not, nor can I say what's been done to the front end. My truck is a metallic gold color that was most likely done with a rattle can. However, the driver's side hinge is a navy blue, in all likelihood a replacement at some point.
I'm backlogged on a couple of repair items on which I owe you guys reports; steering wheel squeak and valve cover leaking. Hopefully, I'll have some time and reasonable temps over Thanksgiving to work on each. Although, at 8964' I could easily be facing a couple feet of snow. Then it's on to the SkiDoo forum!
Thanks again.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,783
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
As far as the valve covers leaking, when you have them off to replace the gaskets...flat edge ck the area underside of the valve cover around the bolt holes for being flat or straight.
A 6" steel ruler works great, people over torque the valve cover bolts and then bends the valve cover itself and that can lead to leaks.
Squeak steering wheel, I bet you need some graphite on the 2 spring loaded horn ring buttons?? Use a steering wheel puller so not to mess up the threads.
Kerosene or propane torpedo heater...quick way to warm the shop.
A 6" steel ruler works great, people over torque the valve cover bolts and then bends the valve cover itself and that can lead to leaks.
Squeak steering wheel, I bet you need some graphite on the 2 spring loaded horn ring buttons?? Use a steering wheel puller so not to mess up the threads.
Kerosene or propane torpedo heater...quick way to warm the shop.
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