I need a install diagram/instructions for the locking in-cab hood-release that came as an option on these trucks.
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ND I know your watching, so drop some know-how on us.
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Don't know how, I sold these kits but never installed one, but the pic is somewhat explanatory.

Cable with handle bolts to the bottom of the dash (04320). Cable then attaches to hood latch (16700).

 

Well, it' still works for me.
Unless someone actually has a copy of the instructions, this is just fine.

I'll have to head out & pick the part up from storage & try to get some pics while I install it.
ND, as always thanks for the great schematics.
Your awesome.

 

Are you replacing the upright bar (16864) and the locking latch or just the locking latch?
1. Remove screw # 56912 S (U-413-C) holding the cable connection eyelet cover plate on.
2. Remove the cable connection cover plate 16B968, pop the cable plastic collar out of the slot.
3. Unhook the cable from the tab it is connected to.
4. Mount the release handle in the cab, route the cable thru the firewall.
5. Mount the latch mechanism, connect the cable, install cover.
Adjust to release properly, careful the cable is NOT that sturdy.

 

Here are 2 different advice routes to take.

1.To get the back of the hood down to line the cowl, loosen the 2 very back bolts on the hinge flange where it boltsto the inner fender and then have some one push the hood up standing in front of the truck while you tighten them back down, not a lot, might take a couple of movements to get it where you want it.

Close the hood slow, DONT SLAM IT, watch the back while it close's. Next, to get the gap the same all the way across you loosen the hood bolts on only the side you want to move, if your closeing the gap, tap the back of the hinge arm with your rachet handle and the hood will move onits own, if you want to widen the gap, loosen the bolts and pull upon the back of the hood and tap the hinge arm on the front side and the hood will slide forward, always close the hood slow after any adjustments to make sure its not gonna hit any where. Let us know howyou do.

To tighten the front of the hood, there is 2 bolts on the hood latch that is slotted, you can see the slots if you look, loosen them and tap the latch down, if you go to much the hood won't latch, bring it back up, I have to slam mine hard to latch so the hood down bounce on the corners.


2. Hood: Often the hood sits up above the cowl. To fix this, adjust the hinge where it mounts to the inner fender. Up at the front, and down at the rear. Reverse procedure to raise the rear of the hood. The hinges should be lubed with a good lubricant to operate properly or your alignment wont work no matter how long you play with it. (you should be able to almost throw the hood open with the flick of a finger).

Set everything in the middle, hood hinge to inner fender bolts and the hood bracket bolts. I like to remove the latch at first so I can easily swing the hood open and closed. If the rear of the hood is sticking up when it is closed you actually adjust the hood to open MORE. Either by lifting the front of the bracket or lowering the rear of the bracket. Sometimes both in combination. The center bolt acts as a pivot. Once that is done, and it can take a while to get everything nice and the gaps decent you then set the latch height.

If the hood is maxed out forward and is still interfering with the cowl you'll then need to loosen the inner fender to firewall horn bolts, inner fender bolt and radiator core support and move everything forward.

If you're hood is high compared to the cowl loosen the middle bolt and the rear bolt, then open the hood and it will push (rotate) the hinge down and towards the cowl. Look for the clean marks that the bolt head will leave behind for reference.

 

Keeping upright bar.
Will be replacing just the stock under-hood release,
with the remote locking release.
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Thanks for the adjustment info.
But have experienced setting a couple myself.

I've already had spent about 2 hours getting this one adjusted from where
it was catching only the safety latch & needing to be pressed down to be released.
To popping up like a happy pup, with just a small tug.

This was a mess of a front clip, it had been hit on driver's side, slightly crumpled the fender & hood.
Plus busted that little bar on Pass. hinge that makes the hood lunge awkwardly forward.

So I had spent under an hour replacing the Pass. hinge & adjusting the hood to line-up
before I commenced to spending the time to get it "working perfect".

Body alignment will have to wait until after get a replacement front clip & bumper.
& hope the front horns are unbent.
But at least the cab & back of hood lay reasonably strait, gapped right & functions like it should.
_

 

Then follow steps 1-5 accordingly.