The Alternator Eater
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Billings, MT
Mine used to eat rebuilt alternators all the time...until I got a DC Power 185 amp alternator and have not had an issue since. It is a little pricey but having some peace of mind is worth it. They make their own from scratch, not a rebuilt alternator.
Thread Starter
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
I may be going that route. I am also looking at Nations in Mizzou. They seem to make a super-powered alternator as well from scratch.
Mine aren't dying immediately. They all last at least a few months, which leads me to think this a crappy-alternator-made-from-crappy-parts-problem.
Mine aren't dying immediately. They all last at least a few months, which leads me to think this a crappy-alternator-made-from-crappy-parts-problem.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 12
The Alternator Eater
I may be going that route. I am also looking at Nations in Mizzou. They seem to make a super-powered alternator as well from scratch.
Mine aren't dying immediately. They all last at least a few months, which leads me to think this a crappy-alternator-made-from-crappy-parts-problem.
Mine aren't dying immediately. They all last at least a few months, which leads me to think this a crappy-alternator-made-from-crappy-parts-problem.
As for repeated failures, you would think that it would make sense to clone a working setup such as the legendary Ford 3g 130 amp alternator (found in any 97+ Triton truck) and use the same Mega fuses instead of these funky fusible links. Circuit protection is only as good as it is replaceable. Mine is all original, despite building a new fuse block for the mega fuses. Puts out a solid 14.4v at the battery no matter what and spare fuses are available anywhere.
My RX7 has a similar setup with a 130A Taurus alternator using a 140A PAL/JCASE style bolt down fuse, retrofitted into a rebuilt/ heavily modified fuse box. Works with zero thought required.
Look closely at how the 7.3's alternator mounting ears are, compared to the 4.6/5.4L, they're probably similar so doing a retrofit should be easy.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 42
From: Almost back in TX biotche
I had the same issue man. I ended up getting a 270amp from Ficmrepair.com and returned the alternator for store credit.
I have not had a single issue since and I can run all my lights, both A/C units, radio, hazards, wipers and have several electronics plugged into my inverter and still idle at 14.5 volts.
I have not had a single issue since and I can run all my lights, both A/C units, radio, hazards, wipers and have several electronics plugged into my inverter and still idle at 14.5 volts.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
If you go the LN route, just be VERY mindful of the vast array of Made In China replica units floating around out there.
Ford 7.3L Diesel Alternators
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 727
Likes: 2
From: Seaside NJ
Get the 185 or 270 and the wiring kit...never look back. Pricey but with what you have been investing in terms of time and frustration, its worth it. Been running that set up in mine since February and couldnt be happier
Wiser by FTE
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,837
Likes: 48
[QUOTE=Travis S;16405840 Also, it was me that ssuggested isiting your local welding supply shop for fresh cables. Solder the lugs on yourself.
As Ford 3g 130 amp alternator (found in any 97+ Triton truck) and use the same Mega fuses instead of these funky fusible links..[/QUOTE] The welding cable and mega fuses are a great idea, but solder melts at 375 degrees, so buy crimp or Allen head lugs...
As Ford 3g 130 amp alternator (found in any 97+ Triton truck) and use the same Mega fuses instead of these funky fusible links..[/QUOTE] The welding cable and mega fuses are a great idea, but solder melts at 375 degrees, so buy crimp or Allen head lugs...
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 12
The Alternator Eater
[QUOTE=Curt's05;16408101]
Not quite, 650 degrees is the average for most 60/40 solder and 700+ for 95/5 as I used. Takes a bit of heat to melt, even with a torch. For reference, 4043 aluminum welding rods melt around 1000 degrees. A single allen head grub screw doesn't have enough surface contact area to transmit 100+ amps. As for crimp connections, every 4awg or larger crimp I've encountered failed with minimal effort from my cat. all 10 lugs on my cables were crimped by the welding shop and failed before install. I soldered them and had no issues since.
It's harder to properly crimp these big cables due to the amount of force required to deform them than to properly solder them. 10awg and smaller, I crimp. 8awg and bigger, I solder.
Originally Posted by Travis S;16405840 Also, it was me that ssuggested isiting your local welding supply shop for fresh cables. Solder the lugs on yourself.
As Ford 3g 130 amp alternator (found in any 97+ Triton truck) and use the same Mega fuses instead of these funky fusible links..[/QUOTE
As Ford 3g 130 amp alternator (found in any 97+ Triton truck) and use the same Mega fuses instead of these funky fusible links..[/QUOTE
The welding cable and mega fuses are a great idea, but solder melts at 375 degrees, so buy crimp or Allen head lugs...
It's harder to properly crimp these big cables due to the amount of force required to deform them than to properly solder them. 10awg and smaller, I crimp. 8awg and bigger, I solder.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Somebody needs to check their sources. While the soldering tip on many irons are 650F or 700F, the solder that is used for electrical work (60/40) melts at 375F, eutectic even less - around 360F
Thread Starter
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Well, I had to go and get another lifetime Autozone. I was upgraded to "new" since they didn't have any more rebuilt ones in stock. It immediately put me back into the 13.9-14.1 range at idle, but by the time I drove 5 miles home it was too hot to touch.
So I went to a car audio shop and bought cable, lugs and fuses. Gonna replace the B+ lead off the back of the alternator to the starter solenoid. I am getting a .675V drop there. Fusible links are going in the trash with the old cable. I bought a 300 amp fuse (150x2) to put in the fuse block. You guys think that is enough? I am running a gear reduction starter that has only pulled 275 amps on start up so far.
Once I get the wiring fixed to what it should be (replace the old stuff), I will spring for a REAL alternator from FICM or Nations. $ is a major factor, so that will determine what I buy and from whom. Looking for the best bang for my buck while maintaining quality when I do it.
So I went to a car audio shop and bought cable, lugs and fuses. Gonna replace the B+ lead off the back of the alternator to the starter solenoid. I am getting a .675V drop there. Fusible links are going in the trash with the old cable. I bought a 300 amp fuse (150x2) to put in the fuse block. You guys think that is enough? I am running a gear reduction starter that has only pulled 275 amps on start up so far.
Once I get the wiring fixed to what it should be (replace the old stuff), I will spring for a REAL alternator from FICM or Nations. $ is a major factor, so that will determine what I buy and from whom. Looking for the best bang for my buck while maintaining quality when I do it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,841
Likes: 923
From: Kaufman TX
F the B.S. with crimping and soldering. Compression lugs are the way to go. And if for whatever reason you need to make a change down the road, they're re-usable.
Pardon the cheesyness of the video.
Pardon the cheesyness of the video.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,841
Likes: 923
From: Kaufman TX
You're correct that the problem is in the wiring, not the alternators. You could possibly get a big badass overbuilt alternator that would eat **** and not care, which would mask over the problem for you but that isn't really a solution and that could also potentially escalate the problem to a fire hazard.
You're on the right track, keep at it and you'll figure it out.
You're on the right track, keep at it and you'll figure it out.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 12
The Alternator Eater
I just re-checked and you are indeed correct about solder's melting point. I mistakenly applied the wrong information from an old r/c car magazine article about making battery packs *facepalm*