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Yes. I was. Thanks. Your wire is red with a mesh sleeve. The other poster's wire is blue.
Since changing your power wire, has your Ex exhibited any other change in behavior?
What kind of behavior... could be anything. EMI has a way of manifesting itself in seemingly unrelated things, and if you think back now some time after rerouting your power wire, can you recall any anomalous instances since that time that might otherwise by dismissed as coincidental?
I ask this not in veiled criticism of your wire routing, but rather in genuine curiosity, from the standpoint of being in the same boat, as just the other day I added a supplemental power wire from a high amperage alternator across the engine valley toward the passenger side battery in much the same manner as you did.
I have not noticed anything since making the new wire permanent and cutting out the old one. Everything is running as it should (finally!). However, my wife drives this thing every day, and I rarely drive it. Yesterday she said the heat is not blowing like it used to in the front and rear. She said it barely gets warm now, but this is the first time she is using heat this year. So I have to look into that now. I doubt that would be related to this, though.
Well I'm going to continue to blame it on crappy alternators. I just picked up a "new" one and it's a no good only putting out 11.7V I measured the voltage drop and I had more variation from the meter than I could measure. I'll check again later once I take this "new" one back and get another.
John, are you waiting a full two minutes after startup before checking voltage? Two minutes seems like forever to me when having to wait, but it is necessary before checking voltage on the diesel, due to the glow plug operation. The glow plugs continue to draw current after the Wait to Start light extinguishes, for up to 2 minutes.
Apologies in advance if you already knew to do this... but since so many folks are surprised to learn this, it seems always prudent to mention, in case someone else reading in the future can benefit from the info.
Yes I waited, I drove it for about 10 minutes before the battery light came on. I guess that's how long it takes to draw down fully charged batteries to the critical level.
And the second alternator I got yesterday is acting up already. When I start the Ex it battery light comes on and when I hook up my battery charger up to it I get 0% alternator output after it runs for about 10 minutes it seems to start working and the output jumps to 100% and the battery light goes out.
Yes I waited, I drove it for about 10 minutes before the battery light came on. I guess that's how long it takes to draw down fully charged batteries to the critical level.
That's not what the light means. It's really an alternator light. That bulb gets 12v from the ignition switch on one side, and 12v from the alternator's regulator on the other side. Connect a bulb to +12v on both ends and it won't light up. When all things are normal, this is the no-light condition.
What happens when the alternator does not have output is the 12v from the regulator goes away, and now you have 12v on one side of the bulb and less than 12v on the other side so electrons can flow and the bulb lights up.
It doesn't mean your batteries are critical or bad or anything like that. It only means the alternator output is too low.
And the second alternator I got yesterday is acting up already. When I start the Ex it battery light comes on and when I hook up my battery charger up to it I get 0% alternator output after it runs for about 10 minutes it seems to start working and the output jumps to 100% and the battery light goes out.
Bench test the alternator. If it's got a problem it will present itself on the bench too. If it's fine on the bench but funny in the car, the issue is in the car.
Bench test the alternator. If it's got a problem it will present itself on the bench too. If it's fine on the bench but funny in the car, the issue is in the car.
Apparently nobody bench tests alternators anymore I called every parts place around and nobody has the equipment.
That's not what the light means. It's really an alternator light. That bulb gets 12v from the ignition switch on one side, and 12v from the alternator's regulator on the other side. Connect a bulb to +12v on both ends and it won't light up. When all things are normal, this is the no-light condition.
What happens when the alternator does not have output is the 12v from the regulator goes away, and now you have 12v on one side of the bulb and less than 12v on the other side so electrons can flow and the bulb lights up.
It doesn't mean your batteries are critical or bad or anything like that. It only means the alternator output is too low.
I was shocked at how little power these engines need to run. I got stuck the other morning and the auto club guy was able to get me started. My alternator was putting out 9V (according to his little machine) and I was able to drive the 30 minutes home.
They are just over a year old June 2015. They seem strong and charge up without issue. We haven't had any real cold yet but they started at 23F last weekend without issue.