Looks like I will be replacing it this weekend. Is there a good source for these motors other than the local parts house? If so, are they better than those available locally?

 

could ya do me a favor, and let me know the color of the wires, and how many there are on the motor?
id greatly appreciate it!

 

I figure most of them are manufactured from the same place, but I'd check the name/model number and see if you can find any bad reviews for the particular one you get. The one's that I've gotten from Advance seem to be good, "ACI" brand .

 

Here's a link on what I found with my 1994. Still happy with my Motorcraft rebuilt via rockauto.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

In contrast to the rebuilt motorcraft motor that is doing fine, I am replacing under warranty the side window motors made by Dorman every 2 years now. I did not have that problem with the Siemans motors on Fords, which are no longer around.

One Red wire, one Yellow wire.
IIRC, the tailgate motor itself is the same motor as one of the doors (don't remember which side), but the tailgate motor assembly has longer wires on it, and the wires have an overmolded snap-in peg on them in one spot that snaps into the door structure near the bottom, to keep the motor wiring out of the way of the glass and regulator as it goes up and down.

 

Chiming in on the idea of rebuilt; The previous owner of my Bronco put in a Motorcraft/OEM rebuilt motor, and it didn't really last that long. I've been running one of the aftermarket one's I mentioned, in one door for many years now with no issues, as well as a second in the other door. Both seem to raise and lower at the same speed and sound the same. Guess it's all luck.

 

thanks a bunch! now i can finally roll this window up, the wiring is all cut up...

 

What is wrong with the motor?

Often, the bushings inside will break. They're made of plastic. You can clean the chunks of plastic out and replace them with steel nuts of the same diameter. Costs about thirty cents and your motor will work again, plus it's vastly stronger.

That is, IF your motor still works (it still spins) but isn't turning the gears.

I'd check that first.

 

The ole steel nut solution sounds good on paper, but I found it has it's own cons. The fit isn't as tight as the plastic parts, and that causes excessive play in window operation; meaning the window inadvertently slides down a small amount. I feel some aluminum or steel that can be cut down and shaped to match the plastic parts would be better.

 

Hrm... I've done it on both of my Broncos and never had an issue. It's nice and snug and the window works like new.

Granted, cutting something that's a perfect circle would be ideal, but a few nuts are much more common to have on hand.

 

I don't know, maybe the nuts you used fit better than what I had. It's a good option in a pinch to get it working again, but I don't care for it and feel there's better options for the long haul.

 

That could be. They were a nice snug fit.

And yeah, I agree something round that's cut and fit would be ideal.

However, after a few years with great results, I know I have no reason to pursue other options. It works great.


Point being, a lot of people don't have access to manufacturing their own custom bits and pieces, and I wouldn't want anyone to be discouraged from administering a very good and inexpensive fix to this common problem.

 

I have no idea of what is wrong with the motor. It stopped working this past week. Both the dash switch and the key switch quit at the same time. I will be getting in the back to try to work the motor with a battery. There may be a different problem. It seems from the searches I have done on the forums, it might be the motor, or the switch that verifies that the tailgate is closed, or possibly some relays. I do not think it is fused based on the searches. I am a little confused about where to "jump" the motor. It seems like it has two wires that carries current to the motor and a separate ground wire grounding the motor to the body. If there is a sequence of steps to take to check the system, that would greatly benefit me. I found the supermotors page for Steve83 that I was going to follow.

 

Have you tried slamming the tailgate? (Or is it currently up?)
Sometimes, I had to close my tailgate really hard to get that switch to click.

The last time I was in there, I completely removed that switch. I'd rather it always work and just be cautious of extending the window when the tailgate is down (which is what it's intended to prevent) which can cause it to break if you close the tailgate with it up.

The motor works by having two different currents going to it. One current makes it spin one direction, the other makes it spin the other.

Easiest way to check it is with a voltmeter. Ground the ground connector and then stab one of the wires going into the motor. Flip the switch one way and then the other. Each wire should get 12v depending on which way you turn the key/switch. If not, you don't have power to the motor.


Also, if you can get your tailgate down, you can manually close the latches on both sides to simulate the tailgate being up. If they're both fully closed, you should be able to operate the window with the tailgate down.


Aside from that, I've never operated the motor with a battery, but I don't think it would be too hard to figure out.

 

It is currently up. I have pushed on the tailgate with my shoulder to make sure the switch is closed, but no luck. Does anyone have a fuse diagram?

 

A few years ago, I verified my problem was the motor itself. It had been running slower and slower.

With the tailgate access panel off, I pried off the harness connector that is push-pinned around onto the backside of the center section. That gave me some slack to separate the motor connector from the wiring harness end.

Then I stuffed the motor connector out through the driver's side opening, and pushed two wires into the female motor connector. That allowed me to clamp on a battery charger's clamps onto the wires. Then I just tapped the AC plug of the charger into an extension cord's plug (just a tap, because I didn't know the polarity for up or down). This way, I could test the motor directly, without switches, runs of wire, etc. in the path. My old motor had lost it's oomph. And sometimes it would not want to start. Probably a worn-down commutator.

Just a note, I have found that window motors that have trouble moving, often move great, unloaded, if you test them laying on the floor with nothing attached mechanically to the motor. If you then grab the gear with a pair of slip-joint pliers, such that the teeth of the pliers interlock with the teeth of the gear, you can physically load the motor, and they crap out.
When in good shape, those motors with their worm-gear reduction can put out a lot of torque!