1995 F150, 5.8 L, 351 Windsor
Backstory-
I have known I needed to replace my O2 sensor for quite some time, the light would flash on and off from time to time. But 4 days ago I replaced my spark plugs, and the light has been coming on after 15 seconds of driving, until I reach my destination and turn the truck off. I had the O2 sensor replaced yesterday, and it is still happening. I hooked up the wire to the EEC Test and these are the flashes it's giving me (Sorry, this is the first time I have ran this test so I'm having trouble identifying the codes).


Thanks in advance, and sorry if I should post this somewhere else in the forum. I will be happy to move it if so

 

The first three flashes are 1-1-1: System checks ok. Then, there is 3-3-2:which is
<table border="1" width="87%" align="center"><tbody><tr><td>332
</td><td>(R,M)
</td><td></td></tr></tbody></table>

 

Thanks for the reply-
I went on to do a test when the engine was warm and got 5 more codes

311: AIR system not working – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Air Injection

332: Same as above, EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code,

167: No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) – TPS

536: Brake On Off open or shorted to ground – BOO

632: E4OD – Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

Couple questions: What exactly is a goose test, because it seems I'm having a few problems running that?

And what would likely be causing the CEL to come on only after reaching a speed of 30mph +?

 

GOOSE CODE
A “GOOSE” code (also called a dynamic response test) is output during an engine running test. This is a single pulse to signal you to quickly move the throttle approximately 1/2 way down and release.

NOTE: Not all engines give a “GOOSE” code.

 

Does this mean I didn't run the rest correctly? Anyone have any idea why my light only comes on at speeds of 30+?

 

In my experience, speeds above 30 and the CEL flashing, is due to the EGR. It begins functioning during light cruise and continues up until the PCM sees WOT or Deceleration.

Investigate the EGR and the AIR injection system, its plumbing, and all associated vacuum lines. Also, most codes associated with the EGR and Air Injection system are due to brittle, broken, or missing vacuum lines or connected wrong.

 

So I was checking my vacuum lines, and i dont know if it was already snapped or if it was just extremely frail, but the green line going to the top of the EGR valve was split in 2. Will it be okay to drive until I get it fixed?

 

Well, it will only create a vacuum leak when the PCM commands the EGR Vacuum Solenoid to open and pull vacuum on the EGR. Other than increased fuel consumption, it should be ok.

If you have a golf tee, then remove the bottom black vacuum hose from the EGR Vacuum Solenoid and plug it or if you have a vacuum cap, then the top nipple above the black line and call it a day until you get the issue resolved.

 

Thanks timbersteel-
How hard would it be to replace the line myself?

 

I'm not sure of the size of the nipple and the line, but check with the auto parts store and they can sell you the size you need. And it would be best to check and/or replace all the old nylon lines. It's easy and cost effective and not to mention no longer dealing with vacuum leaks.

 

Awesome, will do. Im thinking when I changed my spark plugs, I broke the line and didnt realize it because there is a bigger, ridged tube all the other lines are fit in to. Where exactly does the end plug in to (from the EGR valve)? I can see that it goes back behind the engine; my only fear of doing in myself is having to remove things in order to replace the entire line (being as I'm not very repair-savvy)
Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it

 

I got all the vacuum lines patched up today, took it to the shop; needed an oil change too. Out the door for under $100, didn't mind paying a bit more than it'd cost to fix it myself cause I've never done it before. But the CEL didn't come on once! So thank you guys so much for helping me diagnose the problem

 

I've noticed three things:

1) My RPM kind of fluctuates a bit when idling (I also get some light shake). Anything to be concerned about? I'm thinking it's something with the throttle position sensor?

2) My temperature gauge seems to dive from the middle, down down to like 33% (closer to C). Should I maybe get that replaced?

3) Since this is the first winter with the truck, I've been using the heat. After the I'm done using it and switch the control to OFF, I can still feel air blasting down by my feet. Anyone come across this issue?

Sorry for all the questions, thanks again all

 

1. Could be dirty fuel injectors or faulty injector(s).
2. Check radiator cap, thermostat, & coolant temp. sensor
3. This is normal