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I just did a koer test, probably didn't do it right, but here is what i got.
116-ect out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts
172- HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)
332- egr opening not detected
536- brake on/off circuit failure/ switch not actuated during koer test
632- overdrive cancell switch not changing state (e4od)
ok... my only two KOEO codes were 332-egr opening not detected and 452- vss/psom something or another...
what I'm wondering is are some of these koer codes because I didn't warm up the engine/ push the brake pedal during the test? like the 116,172,536...? and lastly, the 632 code... how bad is this one. I'm already going to replace the vss and psom and the tps. will replacing these sensors fix this problem or is that a whole new can of stuff I just got into?? I know the egr is bad and i'll get around to that eventually, was more worried about the trans at the moment
During the KOER test, you have to stab the throttle, touch the brake, turn the steering wheel, and press the o/d cancel switch. I wouldn't worry at all about the related codes if you did not do any of these things. If the engine was not at normal operating temperature, you can disregard the ECT code as well. That leaves the ERG code and the O2 sensor code to figure out.
lol... i thought I did it wrong, I know i've seen directions on what to do and when, but can't remember where. the truck was not warm, I did stab the throttle but not sure if it was the right time (did it when the single seperator flash came up at the beginning) the o2 sensor is probably bad, wouldn't surprise me... and I get the egr code during the koeo test so its probably bad too, I also have the vss/psom code come up during the koeo test but i'm working on that one, thanks alot. I'm glad someone could answer these for me
my egr code was thrown bc my vacuum reservoir(the black tin can under the hood) had a hole rusted into it and my evr wasn't getting any vacuum because of it. Take off your egr valve and clean any carbon off of it and anything connected to it. Then with the truck running take the vacuum line off of the evr with the truck running and make sure the black line has vacuum. If it does put the line back on and have someone rev to about 3500 rpms and check for vacuum on the green line going to the egr valve. This is how i tested mine and found the problem to be the vacuum reservoir. YMMV though I've heard of about 5 different problems causing 332 to be thrown.
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