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Express Bed Crossmember Replacement

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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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Express Bed Crossmember Replacement

I finally got the bed off my donor F2. The wood is turning to dust but I can get all the cross braces off for accurate measurements.


A new wood cross brace kit is over $300 plus shipping. Not too awful bad but my concern is the dry climate and heat live in. Wood is not going to last.


I'm considering using 2 1/2" square steel tubing. I would cap the ends, and weld in tubes for the bolts to pass through. This would keep moisture out and keep the bolts from crushing in the tubing. I would have to notch the ones over the frame hump.


I'm thinking this would make for a more rigid bed installation also. I'm sure others must have done this but my search found nothing. Anybody have any feedback on this idea?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3
I finally got the bed off my donor F2. The wood is turning to dust but I can get all the cross braces off for accurate measurements.


A new wood cross brace kit is over $300 plus shipping. Not too awful bad but my concern is the dry climate and heat live in. Wood is not going to last.


I'm considering using 2 1/2" square steel tubing. I would cap the ends, and weld in tubes for the bolts to pass through. This would keep moisture out and keep the bolts from crushing in the tubing. I would have to notch the ones over the frame hump.


I'm thinking this would make for a more rigid bed installation also. I'm sure others must have done this but my search found nothing. Anybody have any feedback on this idea?
Mid Fifty sells steel crossmembers for the long beds.
http://m.midfifty.com/cat/2014_2_134.pdf
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:35 AM
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Thanks for that link. Doesn't say specific years for the cross members but looks to be 53 up for the wood and some other parts.


I can buy a lot of tubing for the price of some of this stuff. Still looking at all my options. Thanks again!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3
Thanks for that link. Doesn't say specific years for the cross members but looks to be 53 up for the wood and some other parts.


I can buy a lot of tubing for the price of some of this stuff. Still looking at all my options. Thanks again!
They fit 51 and up
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply and info. Looking forward to moving ahead on my build.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 06:08 PM
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We have had lots of discussion on here about flooring. If you want the stock look there are lots of kits but they are expensive. And the wood will need to be carefully coated but it will still deteriorate after a few years depending upon use and climate. As my F2 was never going to be stock I elected to use Trex and cover it with aluminum diamond plate for about half the price. Easy to work, long lasting and low maintenance.

Here is one of many good threads where we discussed the many alternatives with plenty of pictures. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15477789

 
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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Thanks for that link. I do want a stock looking truck but I will be using it as a truck. Not a show piece. It wont be parked inside either.


I am going to use 2 1/2" square steel tubing as the cross members. I may be able to clean up and reuse the steel bed strips. I just have to decide on the wood.


I like the look of all those kits but no way I'm spending that kind of money for bed wood. The sun WILL destroy it here.


I'll have to see what is available in my area.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3
Thanks for that link. I do want a stock looking truck but I will be using it as a truck. Not a show piece. It wont be parked inside either.


I am going to use 2 1/2" square steel tubing as the cross members. I may be able to clean up and reuse the steel bed strips. I just have to decide on the wood.


I like the look of all those kits but no way I'm spending that kind of money for bed wood. The sun WILL destroy it here.


I'll have to see what is available in my area.
Sounds like a plan . If you cover it with polished diamond plate you could use the back as a stove. . Even here in Michigan it gets really HOT on a sunny day.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 09:30 PM
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Don't EVEN get me going about hot metal. I'll still use some kind of wood. Just ain't spending a fortune on it.


The wood I pulled out today was 1 1/4" thick. Was maybe a 2x8 or something years ago? 1 1/2" shrunk down over the years? The cross braces looked original but the planking was all over the place on width. The bed strips just layed over the tops of the planks. I have pictures but can't post them.


I'm thinking the 2 1/2" square tube cross braces will make for a pretty solid bed foundation. I may just use some cheap 2"x lumber to get me road worthy.


Phase one of my build plan is get it on the road and drive it. Then figure out what I want to change or not.


Phase two will be budget for the tear down and make it Purdy. Still will be a real truck when done. Unless I find a smoking deal on some exotic wood, cheap it will be.


I appreciate all the input and links.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:37 AM
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My thoughts on the bed wood, if your going to use it, would be to use pressure treated deck material and have it sprayed with Line-x. It would be tough enough for most anything you could throw at it.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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Line-X is something I didn't think about. I appreciate all the ideas.


I love the look of a show quality wood bed. Just can't justify the cost in my case. The sun here will ruin it. My 3 car garage is my shop. No room to park. I guess I could get a bed mat or something to cover it most of the time. I'll figure it out.


I do appreciate all the suggestions.
 
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