53 bed wood replacement
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53 bed wood replacement
Hello,
I am trying to put a bed together (53 f100) that has been apart for some time.
I have new wood, strips, bolts, rubber pads, etc.
Need help figuring out where everything goes. Is there a site with step by step instructions and maybe photos?
Thanks.
53 4 me
I am trying to put a bed together (53 f100) that has been apart for some time.
I have new wood, strips, bolts, rubber pads, etc.
Need help figuring out where everything goes. Is there a site with step by step instructions and maybe photos?
Thanks.
53 4 me
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
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From: NM
I'm getting ready for the same thing on my '52 (no big difference from '53). My bed was completely rotten so it came off in a rather unconventional manner, I didn't disassemble it.
It appears to me the way to do it is to bolt the front crossmember in, then bolt in the wood slats using the 2nd and 3rd crossmembers, including all the bed strips. Then set the bedsides/front on top of all that and add the bolts around the edges and to the frame at the rear. Add the strip at the rear. Put on taillight, etc.
Right?!
-- Ross
It appears to me the way to do it is to bolt the front crossmember in, then bolt in the wood slats using the 2nd and 3rd crossmembers, including all the bed strips. Then set the bedsides/front on top of all that and add the bolts around the edges and to the frame at the rear. Add the strip at the rear. Put on taillight, etc.
Right?!
-- Ross
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Michigan
In the LMC Truck Catalog there are several nice drawings of the bed, wood, crossmembers and mounting hardware. Doing my 55 recently, I put the bare finish painted bed (sides & front assemebled) on saw horses, assembled the wood ,strips and front & rear cross pieces. Then tipped it up and put on the 2 center crossmembers. The 2 ctr X-members could be put on the frame first if you desire.Now set the box on the frame and drill thru for the bed to frame countersunk bolts. Worked for me.
Fred K.
Fred K.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Fred, I just finished putting the finish on my bed wood, and they are all set except for countersinking for the 4 large washers. The specs call for a 1-7/8" bore, 1/8" deep. I am real leery of using a spade bit to make the pocket, especially so shallow of a cut. How did you do yours?
-- Ross
-- Ross
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
Ross,
After drilling the bolt hole diameter thru, used a high speed electric grinder with a 1/4" shank rotary file and carefully made a countersunk depression around the hole. Drew a circle around the first hole using the large countersunk washer as a templet.Being and old Diemaker it was a try & fit process just like the good old days. Result was near perfect!
Good Luck.
Fred
After drilling the bolt hole diameter thru, used a high speed electric grinder with a 1/4" shank rotary file and carefully made a countersunk depression around the hole. Drew a circle around the first hole using the large countersunk washer as a templet.Being and old Diemaker it was a try & fit process just like the good old days. Result was near perfect!
Good Luck.
Fred
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 278
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From: Lewisville, NC
Countersinking washers
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Fred, I just finished putting the finish on my bed wood, and they are all set except for countersinking for the 4 large washers. The specs call for a 1-7/8" bore, 1/8" deep. I am real leery of using a spade bit to make the pocket, especially so shallow of a cut. How did you do yours?
-- Ross
-- Ross
-Scott
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Elder User
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by Narwhal
A Forstner wood bit would do this perfectly. Finding a 1 7/8" and controlling it with a hand held drill will be a problem. I advise a drill press, clamping the wood in place and a very slow feed. Oak is hard and you want a sharp bit to avoid tearing the grain.
-Scott
-Scott
Fred
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Joe Kucinski
Senior User
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From: Lewisville, NC
Not for MANLY types such as those who frequent this forum!
You're right, of course, the bed would need to be disassembled. But I can just see someone trying to use a Forstner bit hand held and having it get away from them, ruining a lot of expensive bed wood and strips.
-Scott
You're right, of course, the bed would need to be disassembled. But I can just see someone trying to use a Forstner bit hand held and having it get away from them, ruining a lot of expensive bed wood and strips.
-Scott
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
Here is how I drilled the recess for the hold down bolts.
I pre-assembled bed, marked center of holes from the under the truck. Removed the two boards. Flip upside down and drill a centering hole where you marked it on the bottom. Flip board over and use a forstner bit in a drill press. Result was perfect. Last time I tried to use a forstner in a hadn drill. Result was not near as precise.
I pre-assembled bed, marked center of holes from the under the truck. Removed the two boards. Flip upside down and drill a centering hole where you marked it on the bottom. Flip board over and use a forstner bit in a drill press. Result was perfect. Last time I tried to use a forstner in a hadn drill. Result was not near as precise.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
Bed Assembly Instructions
Look at the Mar-k or Pro's Pick websites they both have bed assembly instructions there, you can download, or print out. Also saw a complete Forstner bit set for drilling the mounting holes at Cosco today for 30 some dollars.
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