I have a '49 ford f-1 239 with the original 4 speed.

Can I haul it with a tow dolly in neutral?

Thanks! Kevin

 

Shouldn't hurt anything but I would take the driveshaft out just in case. How far are you towing?

 

Give or take 50 miles.

 

I would take the drive shaft out as well

 

Check to see if it is too heavy for a tow dolly. If you are renting one I don't think you will get an ok to do it. Just my two cents which may be totally wrong.

 

Can you tell me the steps?

I can't seem to get the u-bolts all the way out to swing the driveshaft out of the way.

 

There should be a slip-joint in the driveshaft. Once the u-bolt nuts are off, push the driveshaft forward. Hold onto the u-joint cups so they don't get knocked off.

 

You should be able to tow it without pulling the prop shaft as long as your fluid level and quality is OK. Make sure that you check it! There is plenty of lube splash inside with the rear half turning.

 

The problem is that in neutral, the cluster gear isn't spinning to throw lube up on the rear bearing. None of the mainshaft gears are turning. Whether 50 miles (at what speed?) is too much or not, hard to say. I'd say it's pushing the envelope for a trans that hasn't had oil distributed for years.

 

I second the comment about the tow dolly rental company being reluctant to rent it to you. When I tried to tow my 49 from Biloxi Miss to philly back in the 80s they told me the truck wouldn't fit. I had measured already and knew it would, so I called another rental place and told them I was towing a chevette instead. worked like a champ.

 

I was going to go get my current f-100 with our explorer v-6 but u-haul said no deal as the have had a rash of people complaining about the transmission burning up. Go figure we have a cooler on the thing. So we used a trailer no problem.

 

LOL, when I needed to tow my truck (stripped to the frame except for cab) to the paint shop, UHaul wouldn't let me use a dolly because it was "too heavy" for the tow vehicle (Chev 1500 that weighed 5400#). So I came back later and said I needed to tow a Corolla.

See my comment above. The problem is that with the engine not running, but the tailshaft turning, there is no lubrication going to the rear bearings and tailshaft bushings. Automatics are particularly vulnerable. 4x4's with a t.c. that has a Neutral position are "generally" OK, but oddly enough with manual transmissions, have to be left in gear.

 

Not all Automatics. On older automatics if they have a front and rear pump they are OK. The new RFE Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep automatics are OK but the Ram 3500 with manual trans is not. All the Ford F Series automatics are OK according to several sites like this one - http://www.royrobinsonrv.com/images/...yGuide2013.pdf. The key google search phrase is "tow 4 wheels down".

On 4x4s you must be able to put the transfer case in neutral, the transmission in Park or in gear with manual trans so there is no parasitic friction turning non-lubed parts and last but not least the steering column must be unlocked or you will peel the rubber off the edges of the front tires. This latter instruction means that you need to leave the keys in the car. So be careful leaving the car unattended. Remove them when you stop but then you need to remember to put them back in and unlock the column when you start moving again . . . or you can lock the car and bring your second set of keys.

All in all it is very confusing. The 1950 Ford Truck Owners manual says nothing nor does the shop manual that I can find. Ross is right about the cluster gear being stationary but I think if you are using the proper 140wt gear oil that at least short tows should be OK. After all they have been doing that for many years. It may be different in Arizona in the summer heat? I flat towed a '49 Jeepster (all were 2WD using Borg Warner T96 three speed) from Atlanta to Michigan with no adverse effects. I would bet many others on here have done flat tows without pulling prop shafts also. But if you do that you have to be prepared to accept the risk.