Thank you for all your help I really appreciate it. I returned the EBAY PCM and got my money back. The only thing I can think of would be that the PCM was Blank don't know what the symptoms for that are. Or if they are the same as you stated of a fried PCM. I say it was fried due to some water evidence on the outside. One thing I want to note is that I swapped in my extra IDM that I got from ebay and was told it was off a 2002 model. With the newer IDM I don't notice any tach movement while cranking over seems that the tach comes alive when the engine fires up. I know I used to watch the tach bounce with my older IDM. But maybe I'm just tripping out
Did you guys drive the truck around with the DPC-422 PCM with E99 injectors or will it run too rough without tuning? I was thinking of running without tuning for a while but not sure how rough it will be? I think the best option for me is to do the autozone PCM n send it to DP for a flash. I think I would be happy with a 60E tune.

 

The DPC-422 PMT1 is fine with the original stock split shot injectors. The only reason to send it to DP is if it is blank or has a corrupt flash as long as your injectors are stock split shots. I would not want a higher HP tune flashed to the PCM in place of the stock flash for many reasons regardless of who writes the tunes.

Others may differ.

 

did you check number 19 fuse under the dash?that relates to wts light and tach

 

Nothing wrong with the pcm being flashed. Lots of guys use to do it all the time. But I'd go with the 60T tune instead. I use to drive with the 60E all the time but now really like the 60T better. Shifts shift at better points in the rpm's and economy seems the same. That's my opinion.

 

Thanks for all your help I was confused thinking I had single shot injectors when In fact I have splits shots. I had it backwards my mistake.

 

jgilrfr- thanks the fuses were good it was just a defective PCM from Ebay. Put the XLE4 back in and truck fired right up.
Bonanza35- Thanks for sharing your experience between 60E n 60T. Going to try the stock calibration for a while before I pull the trigger on any tune just because I want the truck to be running 100% before I introduce anything else in the mix.

Latest update: Been driving the truck for another 500+ miles with no issues other than I had noticed that when the engine was hot and I would park it to go in a store or let it sit for a while it would take longer cranking to get started. Progressively taking longer. Yesterday on my way to work after driving 30min the truck started to have a rough idle and what seemed as a slight miss driving 50mph cruising along. I punched the pedal and got the RPMs up and the symptoms went away. On the way home it did it a few more times scanned for codes and only came up with P1249 for the wastegate. The last owner had the small red line disconnected from the wastegate don't know if he was having issues with it. Going to drive the truck with the wastegate disconnected being careful not to hot rod the truck to see if the symptoms come back. Other thing I noticed was that the WGSolenoid valve was clicking and making a loud humming noise with the engine off key on hadnt noticed that before.
I think I need injector Orings going to pull Vcovers off and do them since I should have done them when I did glow plugs and valve cover harnesses. Hopefully that takes care of the extended cranking when engine hot.
Also need to do hutch mod the last owner had a service receipt of the truck running out of fuel at 1/4 tank he had it towed into a shop that charged him 90$ to remove fuel filter lid and fill with fuel to re-start engine lol So it tells me no body has been in the fuel tank and it has a broken plastic pickup.
Question about hutch mod. I want to tig weld a SS umbrella with SS mesh screen like a oil pump pick up in an engine only thing I was worried about was not being able to replicate the small duck bill valves on the side the OEM ones have. But it seems that those get by-passed anyway when you do the hutch because most the instructions I see show the 3/8 SS tube running through the pick up to the bottom below duck bill valve. I have also read a few guys just extending the tube all the way down with no pick up foot replaced. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks.

 

tube at bottom would plug rather easy due to less surface area,if any trash gets in tank.

 

Thanks Crop
I still have time to think about it the truck has 3/4 tank I need to get the fuel level down before I drop it.

 

Update- got a dpc-422 nvk4 pcm swapped in a few weeks ago been driving it to work everyday and I enjoy driving with the nvk4 seems to shift smoother. Got the pcm on e-bay for $125 swapped in with no problems. Also did the hutch n harpoon last week and truck is running awesome now I just need to do the injector o-rings. Welded up a Jerry rig SS strainer on my pick up tube because my original pick up foot was toast.

 

 

Congrats! Could you send the eBay link. That is a great price for that PCM.

 

Jhl3- thank you for all your help. I got the pcm used from a guy on e-bay I think they have a junk yard. I also purchased my 02 IDM from same place for 150 I think both worked good no problem. The eBay store name is lynn2003cars I had to risk it for the biscuit since there was no warranty on either IDM or pcm but it worked out.