If your talking about CW or CCW with the Fan/Water Pump. It depends on which way your belt is configured. http://www.waterpumpu.com/%2fPortals...seRotation.pdf

 

FAN CLUTCH:

The fan clutch is a coupling device that is located between the water pump shaft and the fan. The fan clutch is designed to improve the vehicle’s cooling system efficiency while reducing the load on the engine and loss of energy caused by the fan itself.

The Fan Clutch allows the fan to operate at lower speeds and effectively detach at higher speeds when the vehicle is moving and air movement due to velocity aids to cool the engine.

There are two types of Fan Clutches, thermal and nonthermal fan clutches, also called centrifugal clutches. Both types operate on the fluid-drive principle. Non-Thermal often is also controlled by the ECM.

7.3L Have the Thermal Centrifical Clutch.

The Fan Clutch on 7.3L Engines engages gradually and is fully engaged at approximately 200*F. Remembering this is the temperature of the CLUTCH and not necessarily the Temperature of the Engine Coolant.

Often presented with a "roaring" sound noticed by a mild decrease in performance from a stop.

Symptoms of a Worn / Defective Fan Clutch that should be replaced:

Q: How do you know when your Fan Clutch is wearing out or has failed to do its job?

A: There are a few key symptoms.

Excessive Free-Wheeling when spun manually (when engine is stopped) - With the engine stopped, manually spin the fan. If the Fan spins excessively, over 3 revolutions, as though there is no resistance it should be replaced.

If your air conditioner does not perform well at idle or low vehicle speeds then the clutch may have failed and air is not passing over the A/C condenser efficiently enough to cool the refrigerant.

If the fan speed does not increase when engine is running hot or if the fan speed does not increase until engine is excessively hot.

Looseness of the Fan - Excessive lateral movement of the fan blades. If the fan blade moves more than 1/4" front to back measured at the end of the blade. Some lateral movement is a normal condition due to the type of bearing used in fan clutches. Approximately 1/4" (6.5 mm) maximum lateral movement measured at the fan tip is allowable.

Vibration - Sometimes vibration can be detected due to a failed clutch. The vibration can increase with engine speed. Many times this can lead to water pump failure.

When the engine is stopped, turning the fan blade manually turns rough, grinding or does not turn at all.

Leaking silicone Fluid - Excessive fluid leakage will cause the clutch to fail to engage.

Noise - If you hear excessive fan noise or a roar at all engine speeds. Noise can be detected when the clutch should be engaged, during initial cold startup or when the engine is hot.

Under high speeds or higher RPMs over 2500, a locked up fan can create a roaring noise. These are notably different dependent upon the vehicle and type of Fan.

Life: The majority of clutch fans will last the life of the vehicle and be recycled back into use by salvage yards and rebuilders.

 

Honestly I'm not sure what I meant. I was looking around at fan clutch and I noticed some said clock or counter. I figured you the truck on and it was switch way the fan spun.


Makes no sense that some trucks would spin in an opposite direction, hey you never know.

 

I'm talking about this. Look at the description.
Duralast/Fan Clutch 22611 at AutoZone.com


I say fan rotation counter clockwise? Some sites say clockwise which way does the fan turn.

 

Why not spend a tad more and get OEM? COOLING FAN for 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty

 

$180 on Rock Auto

 

Pulled the clutch off just now pretty sure it is full of dirt. It moves, how ever very poorly. Seal on the shaft side is just hanging there.


Since I didn't get a lot of feed back on what to put back on. They all seem the same, putting the severe duty on there from Napa runs 200$ plus a 20% off bucket sale. Looking at 160$+uncle sams portion.


Hope this is the problem I'm about 99% sure.

 

That should work, but when in doubt, OEM out....

 

Report back and let us know.

 

Other than listening to the noise of the fan is there another way to test the clutch to see if it is working properly?

 

All I have is get it toasty, take a heavy load up a grade, and listen. I think the clutch kicks on when you first start in the morning, but I can't remember. I'm in "Ignore the noises" training.

 

I'm in the same camp as Rich on clutch fans.

Although some say if the fan always spins it is good, others say same thing is bad.

At the end of the day, the advice I got this summer is about the best I've found: "You will know it when you hear it"

Mine was getting warm. Not hot, but a little too warm. Rich picked up on that from a logged WOT graph.

I had several at a pick n pull available and I couldn't tell what was good or what was bad. No one else seemed to know, either. I went to NAPA, grabbed a clutch, put my fan on it, and have been happy with it since

This was probably around 155k or so. No problems since, even with our 7k+ trailer and gear (probably gross about 17k-18k).

Let us know how you make out.

 

Hey guys it got cold in Colorado. Right after I got my fan clutch changed, so far I haven't had any over heating issues. I still can't hear it kick on. My 7.3 is really loud though. We still got a lot of snow in the high country where the stepper grades are so we'll see how she does in a month.

 

IMHO, the fans are as much about PREVENTING an overheat as it is about cooling. It catches the heating up before it gets too far and seems to handle it well.

Good luck to you

 

My fan kicks on in the morning but not always. It's only periodic when it comes on.