stacked rear locks
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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stacked rear locks
hey guys. my ex was bought with stacked rear blocks. it has new lift springs but im guessing the kit the po bought was designed to be stacked. i know this is a bad idea and a n "all spring" lift would be better but i have what i have and its new parts. question i have is can i buy a larger single block somewhere? or weld the 2 blocks together? im assuming they are both steel ill have to take a closer look.
thanks
thanks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
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Pending measurements, if you end up with 4" you can swap for a tapered F250/350 block to retain the same height in a single block.
Welding then might be possible, however I wouldn't recommend it. These things are THICK and solid, getting proper heat penetration for a solid weld would be a bit difficult, plus you're only laying a bead around the perimeter instead of solidly welding them thoroughly. With the amount of leverage and torque that'll be applied to them, I'd be hesitant to go the welding route. It'd be better and safer than how they are now, but a single taller block is a far safer alternative.
Welding then might be possible, however I wouldn't recommend it. These things are THICK and solid, getting proper heat penetration for a solid weld would be a bit difficult, plus you're only laying a bead around the perimeter instead of solidly welding them thoroughly. With the amount of leverage and torque that'll be applied to them, I'd be hesitant to go the welding route. It'd be better and safer than how they are now, but a single taller block is a far safer alternative.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,715
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From: Central NH
I've always liked the ones from Precision Metal Fab. The U bolts go through them, so there is little chance of ever spitting one out.
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 17
I've always liked the ones from Precision Metal Fab. The U bolts go through them, so there is little chance of ever spitting one out.
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
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Senior User
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i'll take a look when i get home. i believe i have the paperwork for the springs that were put on it f350 4" rough country kit off the top of my head. i'm running a 37" tire with ease.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 191
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I've always liked the ones from Precision Metal Fab. The U bolts go through them, so there is little chance of ever spitting one out.
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
Ford Fabricated Lift Blocks
those look sweet! definitely an option for me. let me measure when i get home..
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
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From: Media PA
OK, looks like a stock EX 4X4 block (2.5"-ish) and an additional 1.5-ish aluminum block. You should be able to replace them with a single 4" block or maybe even an F-350 tapered block (3.75-ish). Whichever way you go I would try to keep something with a built-in bumpstop arm like your current stock block has.
EDIT: Measure the front side of the blocks too, to see if they have a taper to them (slightly taller in the back than the front) and then match that taper (as long as you don't have any driveline vibrations now) with your new blocks.
EDIT: Measure the front side of the blocks too, to see if they have a taper to them (slightly taller in the back than the front) and then match that taper (as long as you don't have any driveline vibrations now) with your new blocks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
OK, looks like a stock EX 4X4 block (2.5"-ish) and an additional 1.5-ish aluminum block. You should be able to replace them with a single 4" block or maybe even an F-350 tapered block (3.75-ish). Whichever way you go I would try to keep something with a built-in bumpstop arm like your current stock block has.
EDIT: Measure the front side of the blocks too, to see if they have a taper to them (slightly taller in the back than the front) and then match that taper (as long as you don't have any driveline vibrations now) with your new blocks.
EDIT: Measure the front side of the blocks too, to see if they have a taper to them (slightly taller in the back than the front) and then match that taper (as long as you don't have any driveline vibrations now) with your new blocks.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
If it's a spring, it can deflect. And we don't know what spring it is and what the rate is on it, so I was playing it safe.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
It's relatively inexpensive to just buy 4" block and less to worry about in my opinion.
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