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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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Preparing for winter...

With winter approaching, I want to get my truck ready for the extreme amounts of road salt they spread around here in New England. I have already had wheel well liners and rear mudflaps installed(already had them up front), now I have one question. Which is the better method for keeping the frame and rest of the suspension as rust free as possible? Fluid film undercoating or washing the frame very frequently during the salty months. Perhaps both? What do you guys think?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 01:32 AM
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You can do both but I suggest that you put enough Fluid Film and not to blast the frame when rinsing so that fluid film will last a while.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 05:20 AM
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I swear if I ever move back to Maine as a full time resident, I'll put my nice vehicle up for the winter and drive a beater with a heater.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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A beater with a heater is the best way to keep rust off your frame. Back when I lived in an area that salted the roads (not in WYO) I was working on fancy foreign cars and they would spray the underside with automatic transmission fluid several times each winter.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies. I don't have a winter beater right now or a lot of ATF so I think I'm gonna go with fluid film. Are there any places in particular that are very important to spray or any places that you want to avoid spraying? Thanks again
 

Last edited by Liam_Harrow; Oct 7, 2015 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Punctuation
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tseekins
I swear if I ever move back to Maine as a full time resident, I'll put my nice vehicle up for the winter and drive a beater with a heater.
Pretty much why I kept my 2001 F150. it has rust, and Im not going to fix the rust. ( its not worth fixing), the 2013 will sit when there is salt on the roads
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Liam_Harrow
Thanks for the quick replies. I don't have a winter beater right now or a lot of ATF so I think I'm gonna go with fluid film. Are there any places in particular that are very important to spray or any places that you want to avoid spraying? Thanks again
spray everything. Entire underside of the body, frame, inside the doors, above the wheel wells(soak the foam really good), and remove the plugs(or tape)on the backside of the rocker panels and spray the inside really good. Fluid film is said to be safe for painted parts and rubber/plastic parts. I would just try to keep it off the exhaust and the brakes.

Best thing to do is spray the Fluid film then drive down a gravel road to get a layer of dust on top, then leave the underside alone for the remainder of the winter. You could hit the underside with light pressure once or twice but don't hit it too hard or you'll wash the FF off.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman19762003
Fluid film is said to be safe for painted parts and rubber/plastic parts.
Incorrect. Not rubber.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 04:05 AM
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As a long time resident of northern New England, all I have ever done is periodically wash my trucks. I've not had rust issues from this practice. And I live on a dirt road so everything gets more abuse than for those who enjoy pavement.


But before you get all focused on coating the frame and chassis components, become familiar with the numerous places where Ford had left pockets for road junk to collect. Many of these are in the stamped sheet metal on the under body and these will be the points that are more likely to rust. I doubt any coating or whatever, will prevent issues that might arise in these areas from winter driving
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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I used Fluid Film, but not wash regularly under so to leave it there. Once applied the salt would be on the outside anyways. Regular driving will wash salt off fluid film in the spring.
Getting ready to recoat for this winter, but it held up pretty good and really don't look like it needs it.


9500 miles with 4 good months of salt covered roads here.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 07:59 AM
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I would start by high pressure cleaning the underside of the truck, followed by Fluid Film.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bakon
Once applied the salt would be on the outside anyways. Regular driving will wash salt off fluid film in the spring.
That is a terrible theory. It does not "rust proof" your truck. Get the salt off your truck by spring. Corrosion accelerates with warmer temperatures.

To the OP, Fluid Film is essentially lanolin and it is very effective. Lanolin is used to protect electrical studs and ring terminals in underground mining because little else works as well. It definitely slows the corrosion process but makes a greasy mess of the underside of the truck. I apply it each fall with a paint sprayer (high pressure, low volume). It will be gone on the most exposed surfaces, such as the axle, and still be thick on more protected surfaces. I recommend you spray the grease off as much you can between coats because the old coating will be loaded with dirt, salt, and road grime. I just use it as an external suface coating. I don't spray it inside panels or open up body plugs because It most certainly will clog smaller drain holes. I cover up the wheels, tires, and brakes with drop cloth and remove the spare tire when applying. I don't spray the engine or radiator, and try to avoid electrical connection (seals may swell and leak). I don't mind overspray on exhaust but avoid hot spots like the cats and turbos. It's not supposed to catch fire but I'm not pushing my luck. It will smell for 2 weeks as the exhaust burns off the oil.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 05:34 AM
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These replies were very helpful. Thank you. My plan is to high pressure wash everything underneath then spray with a paint sprayer. I read on their website it can cause rubber to swell so I will avoid rubber and avoid spraying it inside doors. I would rather just wash those areas out frequently. Thanks again
 
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by QwkTrip
That is a terrible theory. It does not "rust proof" your truck. Get the salt off your truck by spring. Corrosion accelerates with warmer temperatures.

To the OP, Fluid Film is essentially lanolin and it is very effective. Lanolin is used to protect electrical studs and ring terminals in underground mining because little else works as well. It definitely slows the corrosion process but makes a greasy mess of the underside of the truck. I apply it each fall with a paint sprayer (high pressure, low volume). It will be gone on the most exposed surfaces, such as the axle, and still be thick on more protected surfaces. I recommend you spray the grease off as much you can between coats because the old coating will be loaded with dirt, salt, and road grime. I just use it as an external suface coating. I don't spray it inside panels or open up body plugs because It most certainly will clog smaller drain holes. I cover up the wheels, tires, and brakes with drop cloth and remove the spare tire when applying. I don't spray the engine or radiator, and try to avoid electrical connection (seals may swell and leak). I don't mind overspray on exhaust but avoid hot spots like the cats and turbos. It's not supposed to catch fire but I'm not pushing my luck. It will smell for 2 weeks as the exhaust burns off the oil.

Maybe you misunderstand. I use it same way as you. Exact way. I just don't hi pressure spray it off all winter long as I believe it could start removing the product with repeat spraying. I might use a garden hose to wash the truck and hit some spots seen standing but in general I leave it be and the salt would be on the outside with fluid film between it and the body.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bakon
Maybe you misunderstand. I use it same way as you. Exact way.
I don't let nature take care of Fluid Film removal the way you described. I cut thru it after the last spring melt.

Originally Posted by Liam_Harrow
I read on their website it can cause rubber to swell so I will avoid rubber and avoid spraying it inside doors.
That's a safe way to go. I make the assumption that hoses under the truck are tolerant because it is used for brakes or transmission, but I don't really know for sure.... The real issue is I just don't want to mask all that stuff.
 
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