So I'm a new X owner, last week to be specific. 2003 6.0 PSD 4x4 Eddie Bauer. Truck is in great shape cosmetically & mechanically as far as I know. I'm a 1st time diesel & 4x4 owner. I had Ford go through the truck before I bought it, they did a "used car" multi-point inspection. With some of your feed back from engine pics and theirs the dealer where I purchased the vehicle did a coolant flush to put the correct coolant in, oil change with correct cap and filter, welded a bracket on the steering on, rotated the tires and a few other odd things.

My concern is the EGR, Oil Cooler & Head gasket issues I've read on this forums. My wife and I are getting ready to take a trip to Arizona for Thanksgiving, around 2k miles round trip in about 12 days of travel. I don't want to get stranded to say the least. I've read about the "bullet proofing" of these vehicles.

I've talked with a local diesel shop, Diesel Pro's LLC in Hurst TX. He recommended going ahead and studding the vehicle, with EGR delete, etc etc. He says it's just a matter of time before the engine cooler fails if it hasn't already and been repaired. Is it worth the $$ They don't use the Bullet Proof Diesel equipment but do use the ARP studs.

I have some cash to throw at it but need to make decision on cosmetic or mechanical right now. My dealer says don't do the stud until you "need it" if at all. Well don't want to "have" in the middle of the night in a unfamiliar area. Definitely getting remote start and alarm to start regardless of mechanical.

Your insight is very helpful and wanted. Sorry for the long post!

 

Honestly, it is all up to you and how you are going to use the Ex. If you are going to be pulling heavy loads, or are looking to chip it and run it hot, then YES bulletproof the 6.0

As for using Bulletproof brand stuff, that can be a matter of debate. There are several sources to be able to get what is needed to "bulletproof" you Ex.

Lastly, when it comes to cosmetic or mechanical, always go with the mech side. You can almost always drive an ugly but well running rig, but the same can't be said for the other way around.

Good luck, and congrats on the new Ex!

 

Mechanical before cosmetic...it won't matter how "good" it looks sitting dead on the side of the road.

 

I say you need to get gauges, and monitor your EOT / ECT differential. I recently purchased the Scangauge II through Advanced Auto using the 30% off code and have it stuffed in the little cubby plugged into the OBD port, well worth it.

 

If your doing oil cooler, egr etc. you should do the studs it won't add a crazy amount of dollars to your job.

 

Knowing the way I drive, and knowing stuff happens to stock rigs and tuned rigs alike, I wouldn't even buy a 6.0 unless I knew I had the scratch to bullet proof it, or unless the rig had been properly bullet proofed already.

Just my .02 cents.

Stewart

PS - Moved over to the 6.0L PSD forum.

 

lots of guys here running stock bolts and towing heavy. I think its required to stud the truck IF the heads come off, but unless your going racing with heavy tuning... run them until they need replaced. Doing an oil cooler and all that... get studs.

Get a scan gauge2 as mentioned, use the Advance Auto coupon code TRT30 to save some $$. Monitor the temps, main power voltages and the FICM and drive your new truck.

 

Thx guys for your feedback. I ordered my scanguage 2 last night. Watched a few videos on programming it. Will take a look around the forum and see the main points I should program and look out for. Again thx!

 

If it were me (and I've been in this situation before) I'd spend the money on the mechanical side and have them stud the truck.

When I bought my '05 Excursion, it had a clogged oil cooler and leaking EGR cooler. Under hard acceleration, it would puke coolant, but still made it 700 miles home.

As soon as I got it home, I called PSE and initially had them quote an oil cooler and EGR job. After thinking about it and at the recommendation of Dorian (PSE owner), I just had the truck studded since I just wanted to drive it and never worry about it again. I have ZERO regrets going this...

Work performed:

-New injector O-rings
-EGR delete
-Coolant flush with VC-9
-Pressure wash Intake manifold
-New oil cooler
-Clean turbo
-Studs
-New Ford headgaskets
-New rockerbox gaskets
-New glow plug connector O-rings
-Updated Dummy plugs and standpipes
-New fan belt
-New degas bottle
-4 inch exhaust (go with a 3.5 inch downpipe to 4 inches)

After having all this work done, The Monster has NEVER left me on the side of the road or even come close. It's also performs flawlessly no matter what I'm doing with it.

It's been 72K since October 2013 and again, I have absolutely no regrets spending the money I did to freshen up my 6.0 and make sure I never had to worry about it again.

 

I leaning towards the Bulletproof, feeling that it will give me a good solid foundation to do whatever I choose in the future and a great piece of mind.

 

Some great advice here. These folks have taught me a lot since purchasing my 6.0L about 6 or 7 weeks ago. Once you get your scan gauge post up the engine oil temps & coolant temps so we can see the situation with your oil cooler. Also monitor FICM VOLTAGE & battery voltage. These items will help guide you in the correct course of action.

 

I agree. On mine, I waited till oil cooler needed replacing. $1200 here in Houston area. For $3500 I had it 'proofed which is also the cooler, studs ect ect,

 

STOP!
Before you start tossing $$ at things that may not even be a problem get the SGII in.

If the temps are good then there is no reason to do an oil cooler.

Also you have an 03 engine with the older and better tube style EGR cooler. aka : The round one.
Same style the BPD based there design on. Your cooler Vs mine stock I would
take yours over it. That is why I put a BPD cooler in plus I was already into the
intake and had to move the thing anyway and I had the part to install.

But do a few near home short 2+ Hr trips just to get to know the new ride. That way you
can also check the ∆ temps. get it to full temp and then at about 60~65MPH hold the speed
on level roadway and see what the ∆ is. BTW that is driving unloaded. Your looking for ∆< 15º F.
That is not a drop dead number but a warning that it's time to take care of it. The one other
thing to look at is the temp recovery time. It should come back down after lets say you crest a hill
and start to level off or go down.


Have a nice trip. I have done the Seattle to LA run a few times and it's a nice drive.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

[QUOTE=Yahiko;15698282]STOP!
Before you start tossing $$ at things that may not even be a problem get the SGII in.

If the temps are good then there is no reason to do an oil cooler.

Also you have an 03 engine with the older and better tube style EGR cooler. aka : The round one.
Same style the BPD based there design on. Your cooler Vs mine stock I would
take yours over it. That is why I put a BPD cooler in plus I was already into the
intake and had to move the thing anyway and I had the part to install.

But do a few near home short 2+ Hr trips just to get to know the new ride. That way you
can also check the ∆ temps. get it to full temp and then at about 60~65MPH hold the speed
on level roadway and see what the ∆ is. BTW that is driving unloaded. Your looking for ∆< 15º F.
That is not a drop dead number but a warning that it's time to take care of it. The one other
thing to look at is the temp recovery time. It should come back down after lets say you crest a hill
and start to level off or go down.


Have a nice trip. I have done the Seattle to LA run a few times and it's a nice drive.

What he said.
There are a lot of 6.0's out here with stock headbolts well in excess of 200K.

 

Should be more concerned about the weak HPOP than head gaskets and studs.

I would recommend an EGR delete though.

Josh