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When I bought my truck ('85 straight 6) it had 2 used spare ignition modules under the seat:
The one under the hood works fine. Its a D8VE-12A199-A1C Blue grommet
Ford Svc P/N D9VZ-12A199-A ... Motorcraft P/N DY-184C
One spare is a D6AE-12A199-A1A / D6AE-12A199-A2A Blue grommet
Ford Svc P/N D6AZ-12A199-A ...Motorcraft P/N DY-184
The other spare is a NAPA - ECHLIN TP40 Blue grommet HEAVY DUTY
...All 3 are Made in USA.
In order to test the spares (to see if they are actually in working order)
Is it just a matter of plug and play?
If, down the road, I needed to replace all 3, is there a module out there
that is recommended as a good solid replacement?
...thanks in advance.
The spare modules you already have (2 Motorcrafts, one NAPA) are recommended as good solid replacements! Sounds like you are good to go, having 3 quality replacements will guarantee that the one under your hood will last forever . I'm not sure how to test the unit, others who know may answer that.
I read somewhere there is a couple of power resistors inside the module that get hot normally during use. Over time the solder joints go bad and get a intermittent connection on the power resistor, losing this connection when the resistors get hot. Of course you can't do much to it yourself with all that goop they poured on top of the circuitry.
Potting compound. Anybody ever dissected one to get a look see at the innards? With a lot of electronics, it's oftentimes a 03c barely-adequate part that fails and roasts the whole thing. Electrolytic capacitors are a good example.
Potting compound. Anybody ever dissected one to get a look see at the innards? With a lot of electronics, it's oftentimes a 03c barely-adequate part that fails and roasts the whole thing. Electrolytic capacitors are a good example.
The one in my truck has been leaking out over the fender well just sitting as I have not used the truck yet.
It has been working and will keep using it till it craps out they I will use the spare I have sitting out side on my spare fender.
Dave ----
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module.
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to an autoparts store to be tested. Will test OK, unless the littler charmer has burned out.
Modules are identified by a colored plastic square (some people call it a grommet) that's located above where the wires feed out.
The blue module is the most dependable, the black and green modules used 1974/75, the redCA only module used 1976/78 were gawd awful turds.
When equipped with these 3 turds, Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NeverSpark!
Unfortunately the first few years of duraspark, all of the modules that were available including the blue grommet version failed with disturbing frequency.After 2 or 3 years the reliability of blue grommet modules got a lot better and later yellow grommet modules didn't seem to suffer from high failure rate either,so it would appear that Ford identified some problem in the manufacturing process and fixed it,hopefully it applied also to the later replacement modules of all strain colors,otherwise people with other strain colors are stuck having to convert to a different box which isn't always as simple as plugging it in.
Unfortunately the first few years of duraspark, all of the modules that were available including the blue grommet version failed with disturbing frequency.After 2 or 3 years the reliability of blue grommet modules got a lot better and later yellow grommet modules didn't seem to suffer from high failure rate either,so it would appear that Ford identified some problem in the manufacturing process and fixed it,hopefully it applied also to the later replacement modules of all strain colors,otherwise people with other strain colors are stuck having to convert to a different box which isn't always as simple as plugging it in.
I know this is an old thread, but while on the topic of DurasparkII boxes, I thought I'd mention that I bought one of these Motorcraft boxes on Amazon and installed it over the winter while doing a bunch of other work. My truck became very hard to start. I was assuming it was my 36 year old starter, but for kicks swapped in my old original 1984 DSII box, and my truck went back to starting as quick and crisp as any modern EFI engine. I didn't actually test it, but I assume the new Motorcraft box is not retarding during starting. I'm running a lot of initial advance, and my truck did not like that new box. Anyway...I'm sure it would be fine on a bone stock application, but for me it was no good. Maybe a counterfeit box? Who knows.
I know this is an old thread, but while on the topic of DurasparkII boxes, I thought I'd mention that I bought one of these Motorcraft boxes on Amazon and installed it over the winter while doing a bunch of other work. My truck became very hard to start. I was assuming it was my 36 year old starter, but for kicks swapped in my old original 1984 DSII box, and my truck went back to starting as quick and crisp as any modern EFI engine. I didn't actually test it, but I assume the new Motorcraft box is not retarding during starting. I'm running a lot of initial advance, and my truck did not like that new box. Anyway...I'm sure it would be fine on a bone stock application, but for me it was no good. Maybe a counterfeit box? Who knows.
The blue DS II boxes do not retard timing during start, they shift Dwell during start not timing. The only modules that had crank retard where the DS II white box. DS I and SSI
There have been some counterfeit Ford parts on the market as of recent. But that does appear to be the standard Wells unit (OEM for Ford).
The blue DS II boxes do not retard timing during start, they shift Dwell during start not timing. The only modules that had crank retard where the DS II white box. DS I and SSI
There have been some counterfeit Ford parts on the market as of recent. But that does appear to be the standard Wells unit (OEM for Ford).
I thought the blue boxes retarded 4 deg during start and the white boxes 14 deg at start, but that I only what I've read. I have no experience with them otherwise. All I know is that my truck was really hard to start with this box installed, and when I re-installed the old original 1984 box, the truck started like new again and has ever since. The only reason I wanted a new DSII box was that my original is starting to separate in the back...the potting is pulling away from the aluminum due to corrosion, and I figured it's only a matter of time before it pukes it's guts out on my fender liner.
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. I'm not sure how to test the unit, others who know may answer that.
