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C6 issues

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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 06:33 AM
  #1  
Redneckfordf2502002's Avatar
Redneckfordf2502002
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C6 issues

Alright so I have a 88 F150 4x4 302 C6 truck that has been having a really bad hesitation going into gear. At first I thought it was the inside seal however from what I am reading it should get worse when it is cold outside however it doesn't.


In the morning I can start the truck up no issue and throw it in gear with no hesitation at all except for what is normal from a 88 truck. However when I leave work in the afternoon I back up then put it in drive and I will be sitting their free reving until it finally grabs it doesn't matter if I rev the truck up to 3K rpms it won't move. Also if before I move I put the truck in reverse feel it grab then shift to drive feel it grab then go back to reverse without moving it has no issues at all grabbing gear again except for what is normal from a 88 truck. Once I get going also their is no issues at all except once in a while it will shift hard from 1-2 but not always.


This truck had transmission work done back in 95 (freshly rebuilt with a shift kit plus a higher stall convertor) otherwise nothing got touched transmission wise. The vacuum line to the modulator valve is brand new when I redid the engine and vacuum lines.


I did put one of those miracle oils in but it doesn't seem like it is working.
The fluid is a little burnt and has a little bit of metal even after the new trans filter I put in. The fluid has maybe 800 miles on it. Yes the fluid is at the correct level and it has been since I started driving the truck 800 miles ago.


Is it still the seal? Am I for sure going to need to rebuild the transmission?
Am I stupid to keep driving the truck (I don't want to ruin the engine I just rebuilt). Could my torque convertor be bad? I am almost sure the PO was reving the truck way up in neutral then droping her into drive so that she would burn out what could this do internally?
Thanks guys
Trav
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 07:19 AM
  #2  
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Won't hurt the engine. With metal in the fluid there is something coming apart and continuing to drive it is possible causing more damage. You don't want to damage the valve body.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
This truck had transmission work done back in 95 (freshly rebuilt with a shift kit plus a higher stall convertor) otherwise nothing got touched transmission wise.
Nothing got touched transmission wise? But it had a rebuild? How would one rebuild a transmission without touching everything transmission wise?

Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
I did put one of those miracle oils in but it doesn't seem like it is working.
Oh, it's working all right. It's dissolving what little remains of your internal seals.
Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
The fluid is a little burnt and has a little bit of metal even after the new trans filter I put in.
Those are pretty strong signs that there is more than a bad seal. The bad seal may have caused the burnt fluid and metal, but either way this trans is done.

Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
Is it still the seal? Am I for sure going to need to rebuild the transmission?
Yes and yes.
Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
Am I stupid to keep driving the truck (I don't want to ruin the engine I just rebuilt).
It won't hurt the engine. Pretty much everything in the trans is toast.

Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
Could my torque convertor be bad?
No, the torque converter is not the problem. When you rebuild the trans you need to replace it because it's contaminated with debris from the trans failure. But if you drop the trans, replace the converter and put it back together, nothing will change. It will still have the same issues.

Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
I am almost sure the PO was reving the truck way up in neutral then droping her into drive so that she would burn out what could this do internally?
And the other shoe drops. Now I know why this trans failed. This will destroy clutches and seals.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #4  
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Here is a link to another forum may help in search of problem. ---EDIT-- "never mind looks like Mark has every thing covered.

Ford Transmission Forum (Search)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ford C4 and C6 Transmission Trouble Shooting Guide

Transmission Doesn’t Engage in Drive or Reverse

No control pressure.
Low fluid level.
Torque converter and/or front pump cavitated (no fluid or air in fluid).
Torque converter improperly installed, doesn’t turn pump (listen for noise).
Manual shift linkage between car and transmission improperly adjusted.
Manual shift valve inside transmission pan not connected or stuck.
Pressure relief valve (or valves) unseated or missing.
Forward clutch pressure leak or improperly assembled (air check clutches by removing the valve body).
Blocked filter.


No 1-2 Upshift

Governor valves malfunction.
Governor improper installation on the output shaft (is the drive ball in place?)
Shift valve jammed.
Intermediate servo malfunction.
Broken or improperly assembled roller clutch.


Early or Late 1-2 or 2-3 Upshift

Vacuum modulator or rod malfunction.
Valve body malfunction.
Governor malfunction.
Loose tubes on governor distributor.


No Upshift at Wide-Open Throttle


Vacuum modulator or rod malfunction
Governor or fluid passage malfunction.


No Reverse

Low fluid level.
Manual shift valve out of adjustment.
Manual shift linkage improper installation and/or adjustment.
Vacuum modulator malfunction or failure.
Valve body assembly error.
Blocked filter.


Slippage in All Gears and Start Out

Low fluid level.
High fluid level (foaming).
Blocked filter.
Faulty vacuum modulator.
Insufficient pump pressure (sticking relief valve, gear/cavity damage).
Faulty torque converter.
Insufficient clutch engagement (pressure, clutch clearances).
Insufficient band engagement (improper adjustment, pressure).


Vehicle Slips or Ratchets in Park

Improper shifter adjustment.
Parking pawl damaged or improperly installed.
Delayed Upshift or No Upshift When Cold

Hard or damaged clutch piston seals.
Insufficient pump pressure (sticking relief valve).


No 1-2 Upshift

Governor issue, stuck valve.
1-2 shift valve issue.
Intermediate band servo not applying.
One-way clutch defective or improperly assembled.


Slips at 2-3 Upshift

Improper direct clutch clearances.
Damaged direct clutch piston seal.
Leaking iron-sealing rings.


No Engine Braking in Second Gear

Valve body issue.
Damaged intermediate band or improper adjustment.
Intermediate band servo piston seals.


No Engine Braking in First Gear

Valve body issue.


Written by George Reid and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #5  
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Nothing got touched transmission wise? But it had a rebuild? How would one rebuild a transmission without touching everything transmission wise?


Oh, it's working all right. It's dissolving what little remains of your internal seals.

Those are pretty strong signs that there is more than a bad seal. The bad seal may have caused the burnt fluid and metal, but either way this trans is done.


Yes and yes.

It won't hurt the engine. Pretty much everything in the trans is toast.


No, the torque converter is not the problem. When you rebuild the trans you need to replace it because it's contaminated with debris from the trans failure. But if you drop the trans, replace the converter and put it back together, nothing will change. It will still have the same issues.


And the other shoe drops. Now I know why this trans failed. This will destroy clutches and seals.
I meant after the rebuild.
I figured that's what that fluid would do but I had to take some type of chance.
that is what I figured but not I am convinced 100%.


So I am talking a whole new trans and torque convertor it looks like. Oh well guess I got no choice. I hate idiots whom do that ruin a very nice truck to show off.


Thanks for the responses
Trav
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 11:35 AM
  #6  
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Ok so I am going to be ordering the transmission rebuild kit with all new clutches and bands and seals payday and then order a new shift kit and torque convertor over the next few paydays.




Question though would it be a good idea to put a transmission cooler in this truck? The truck is only pushing 31s and does almost no towing (maybe once in a while a small load but I got newer higher rated trucks for towing) it is just a DD doing 50-65 a good amount of the time.


This will be my first transmission rebuild but the engine went fine and the transmission shop and a bunch of mechanic buddies said the C6 is a good one to learn on since they are so simple so I am pretty sure I can handle it.
Trav
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:03 PM
  #7  
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Take out the cooler that's already in the truck and scrap it. It's full of junk from the old trans. Install a new one.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #8  
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I wait to order parts until after teardown and inspection.

There is almost always something else you'll need. If it's been neutral dropped a bunch I wouldn't doubt if there is hard part damage.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by DeathRangerofDeath
I wait to order parts until after teardown and inspection.

There is almost always something else you'll need. If it's been neutral dropped a bunch I wouldn't doubt if there is hard part damage.
Neutral drops..............the single best way to kill a transmission in the shortest amount of time possible next to pouring liquid glass in the poor thing.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 01:41 AM
  #10  
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Originally Posted by DeathRangerofDeath
I wait to order parts until after teardown and inspection.

There is almost always something else you'll need. If it's been neutral dropped a bunch I wouldn't doubt if there is hard part damage.
what kind of hard parts??
I can not source a transmission pump for this thing anywhere.


I know I should wait but these parts that I will be ordering need to be replaced anyways so don't see what it could hurt.
Trav
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 01:52 AM
  #11  
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Pumps: Transmission Part by Bulk Part

As for hard parts you never know what you're going to find. The last Trans I rebuilt, a c4, found the input shaft twisted, and a severely cracked drum.

I just try to order everything one time, I hate paying shipping charges.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 02:56 PM
  #12  
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Just to be sure a C6 from a 79 F150 4x4 302 will work in my 88 F150 C6 4x4 with BW1356 tcase.
I got a lead on one in my price that works. If I can put this one in while I rebuild the one in my 88 and really upgrade it so that it withstands my harsh driving enviorment that would be the best thing that has happened to me since getting her running about 4-6 months ago.
Trav
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 06:56 AM
  #13  
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Well that transmission was a bust not even 4x4 after the guy told me it was. Out $50 in gas and my dad's time to go their since I had to work I might have found one locally.
Trav
 
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