I don't think we're talking about the same thing, as it relates to a drain plug.

As I mentioned earlier, all '57 and most '58 and '59 model 9-inch rears had a factory drain plug in the very bottom side of the rear end housing sump.

This is what's left of a '59 Fairlane 9-inch rear end housing (used to be in my buddy's '65 Mustang with a stout 289 and a Top-Loader 4-spd. --3 broken left side axles at the starting line. The 3rd time the axle broke, it tore the housing up too).

Notice the drain plug in the very bottom of the sump. View looking at the bottom side of the '59 Fairlane 9-inch housing. With the housing installed in the vehicle, this plug would be pointing straight down towards the ground.




1960 Thunderbird 9-inch housing. No drain plug in bottom of the housing sump. Factory fill/sight plug is on the back of the housing.



If the rear end has a factory fill/sight plug on the back of the housing, then the original 3rd member would not have come with a fill/sight plug on the front, left side of the 3rd member case, just forward of the 3rd member-to-housing flange.

This is where the fill/sight plug will be located on the 3rd member, if the rear end does not have a fill/sight plug on the back of the housing.




However, all Bumpsides and later trucks with a 9-inch will have a fill/sight plug on the 3rd member, --that is, IF someone hasn't switched the 3rd member out for one that doesn't have the plug there. Bumpsides and later don't have a fill/sight plug on the back of the housing either --not from the factory anyway.

The gear oil won't drain out of the fill/sight plugs on the back of the housing or from the 3rd member. If copious amounts of fluid does gush out of them, when you take these plug out, it means the rear end has been excessively overfilled and it will only drain down until the oil reaches the bottom of the hole, in which case would make the fluid to be at its normal fill level.

These fill/sight plugs on the 3rd member (or on the back of a housing) are used to "fill" the housing with gear oil until you just start to see the oil begin to run out the bottom of the hole --its "sight" level.

The only way you'll be able to thoroughly evacuate the gear oil from the housing is to have a drain plug in the bottom of the housing sump or, remove the 3rd member from the housing to get all the gear oil (and sludge/debris) out of it.

A 9-inch rear end will require (5) pints of gear oil to fill it. That's all of two bottles and half of a 3rd bottle. If you have a Traction-Lok, you'll need 4 oz of friction modifier. Pour the friction modifier in FIRST, followed by the gear oil. Fill to the bottom of the fill hole. If you have an open (single track) differential, you don't need the friction modifier.

 

You can allways use a suction gun/pump to remove the oil left over from the sight plug and below.

 

OK, 1st I'm keeping my jeans zipped. My recall which can be shaky, sez all rears came with a drain, some in the back, some in the front but not both. Mixing could give you no drain or 2 drains.

John

 

Likely never get all the sludge out of the bottom. Better to just pull it and clean it properly.


Been there John. Had a new housing from Moser made for the race car(no filler plug) and the Strange case does not have a fill hole. Ugh. Had to tip the car and dump in from the axle tube. That was a slow going situation. I've since put a filler plug in the housing.

 

VERY NICE ultraranger !! Exactly what I am planning on doing , I might weld on my axle flip spring perches while i am at it so when i lower it (hopefully soon) I won't have to repaint .

 

Powertrax looks nice but $450.00 ! , that's about my budget for the whole rear end rebuild . Hopefully I find a locker at PNP

 

Do you have a jig for the housing? If you weld those perches on it will most likely bend the tubes and you need to know how much it needs straightened.

 

Using a TIG welder , Its not going to move

 

Ahhh so. Nice. Still only have an old Millermatic MIG at home. Been wanting a TIG forever. Have access at work, but they are BIG machines with big torches and not handy for intricate work.

 

You can get a new Traction-Lok differential for $318.00 dollars (28 or 31-spline).

http://m.ebay.com/itm/9-Inch-Ford-28-Spline-Posi-Unit-Trac-Lok-Loc-Traction-Lock-9-Inch-NEW-/221838965240?nav=SEARCH

 

thanks again , I think mini spool is out now

 

if PNP don't work out
eyeing this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RING-AND-PINION-BEARING-INSTALL-KIT-NEW-POSI-FORD-9-28-SPLINE-3-50-RATIO-/261919908227?vxp=mtr&hash=item3cfba4a183

 

Traction-Lok (limited slip) and lockers are different.

 

yeah , so which one is the Clunky one ? i know I don't want that , sounds like something breaking everytime you take a turn

 

The clunky one is Powertrax's "Lock-Rite" which is most often used by offroaders. The Powertrax is a cross between a limited slip and a locker, and operates more smoothly.


A TL is a limited slip. It works on clutches so it is not in full time operation like a true locker. In fact, it would be correct to say a true locker when engaged acts like a spool because it will not disengage while in a turn.