Just recently had to put in a new Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder on my truck, now I'm having issues with it not starting when I push the clutch in, I have to either double clutch it or really push the pedal through the floor board and it might catch. What do I need to replace now? Never had a problem with this before.


This is a 1997 F250HD Diesel bought it new and I'm trying to take care of it correctly.

 

Is it not cranking at all or is it cranking but not starting?

There's a switch on the clutch master cylinder pushrod, and I'll bet your problem is with that.

Or, it could be an issue with the pedal box bushings.

 

It is not cranking at all. It has to pushed in just right for it to catch and then it fires right up.

 

Sounds like your neutral safety switch. Mine was doing the same thing... I'd push in the pedal and then 'wiggle' my foot left and right to get it started. What was going on is that the switch has a couple copper contact plates that get corroded and don't make a connection for the NSS. I eventually pulled it out and cleaned up those contact plates. It works great now.

 

On my vehicles that have had this problem, I have used one of these connectors to disable the switch.

 

The bushing is probably gone. This should fix it.

Ford Clutch Permanent Fix Repair Powerstroke Super Duty Bronco | eBay

 

 

Thank you for all your responses, it gives us a route to start looking into. We were initially thinking the safety switch.

 

If you are comfortable, I'd jumper the switch to disable it. You also have to jumper the Cruise control wire as well to keep it functional. Ihave had this since day one on my truck. Just remember to hit the brake if your cruise is on and you are about to shift, my wife is the only one who attempted to start it in gear while I was under the hood bumping glow plugs in the middle of the winter on a bad relay.

 

as the guys said, it is most likely the bushing worn out. i would fix it instead of bypassing the switch, a bad bushing will also cause problems down the road with the clutch engaging when the pushrod goes metal on metal and wears out and eventually breaks.

 

Agreed if it is the bushing. I would get rid of the bushing setup entirely if I were you. I did the heim joint mod the first day I had my truck. No slop to this day and its nice and tight. Mark the clutch arm to master before removing to reinstall properly. Or just get a new arm if there are a lot of miles of use on the pedal assembly, Usually that soft pot metal does not go on the same the second time around, and the arm is a whoppn 15 or 20$

 

I hate to hi jack the thread but in the past I have changed the cam lever (?) and bushing that went to master cyl. pushrod. Last week or so the pedal box gave up the ghost so we made a thread less hex nut and tack welded on the box, fuel pedal end of crossover shaft; new bushings from Ford and new switch but she won't depress enough to start. There simply is no play and if I reset the cam lever to pushrod I would be presetting pressure on system and can't depress it by hand anyway.

Starting with a remote starting switch the truck shifts in and out of gear like it did when it was a younker. This is my '96 in sig. And purchased new. At 244,XXX, No mods ever done on pedal box or clutch linkage. Thoughts? I was going to start a new thread but this was germane to the OP and just possible they could have similar symptoms.