Clutch start issue
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Brooksville, FL
Clutch start issue
Just recently had to put in a new Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder on my truck, now I'm having issues with it not starting when I push the clutch in, I have to either double clutch it or really push the pedal through the floor board and it might catch. What do I need to replace now? Never had a problem with this before.
This is a 1997 F250HD Diesel bought it new and I'm trying to take care of it correctly.
This is a 1997 F250HD Diesel bought it new and I'm trying to take care of it correctly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
Just recently had to put in a new Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder on my truck, now I'm having issues with it not starting when I push the clutch in, I have to either double clutch it or really push the pedal through the floor board and it might catch. What do I need to replace now? Never had a problem with this before.
This is a 1997 F250HD Diesel bought it new and I'm trying to take care of it correctly.
This is a 1997 F250HD Diesel bought it new and I'm trying to take care of it correctly.
There's a switch on the clutch master cylinder pushrod, and I'll bet your problem is with that.
Or, it could be an issue with the pedal box bushings.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,792
Likes: 72
From: Richland, WA
Sounds like your neutral safety switch. Mine was doing the same thing... I'd push in the pedal and then 'wiggle' my foot left and right to get it started. What was going on is that the switch has a couple copper contact plates that get corroded and don't make a connection for the NSS. I eventually pulled it out and cleaned up those contact plates. It works great now.
Postmaster
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 0
From: Monroe City in
The bushing is probably gone. This should fix it.
Ford Clutch Permanent Fix Repair Powerstroke Super Duty Bronco | eBay
Ford Clutch Permanent Fix Repair Powerstroke Super Duty Bronco | eBay
Postmaster
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 0
From: Monroe City in
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Brooksville, FL
Thank you for all your responses, it gives us a route to start looking into. We were initially thinking the safety switch.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
If you are comfortable, I'd jumper the switch to disable it. You also have to jumper the Cruise control wire as well to keep it functional. Ihave had this since day one on my truck. Just remember to hit the brake if your cruise is on and you are about to shift, my wife is the only one who attempted to start it in gear while I was under the hood bumping glow plugs in the middle of the winter on a bad relay.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,481
Likes: 5,542
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
as the guys said, it is most likely the bushing worn out. i would fix it instead of bypassing the switch, a bad bushing will also cause problems down the road with the clutch engaging when the pushrod goes metal on metal and wears out and eventually breaks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
Agreed if it is the bushing. I would get rid of the bushing setup entirely if I were you. I did the heim joint mod the first day I had my truck. No slop to this day and its nice and tight. Mark the clutch arm to master before removing to reinstall properly. Or just get a new arm if there are a lot of miles of use on the pedal assembly, Usually that soft pot metal does not go on the same the second time around, and the arm is a whoppn 15 or 20$
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 869
Likes: 5
From: Near Shenandoah Valley
I hate to hi jack the thread but in the past I have changed the cam lever (?) and bushing that went to master cyl. pushrod. Last week or so the pedal box gave up the ghost so we made a thread less hex nut and tack welded on the box, fuel pedal end of crossover shaft; new bushings from Ford and new switch but she won't depress enough to start. There simply is no play and if I reset the cam lever to pushrod I would be presetting pressure on system and can't depress it by hand anyway.
Starting with a remote starting switch the truck shifts in and out of gear like it did when it was a younker. This is my '96 in sig. And purchased new. At 244,XXX, No mods ever done on pedal box or clutch linkage. Thoughts? I was going to start a new thread but this was germane to the OP and just possible they could have similar symptoms.
Starting with a remote starting switch the truck shifts in and out of gear like it did when it was a younker. This is my '96 in sig. And purchased new. At 244,XXX, No mods ever done on pedal box or clutch linkage. Thoughts? I was going to start a new thread but this was germane to the OP and just possible they could have similar symptoms.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gbeach
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
10
Mar 20, 2018 11:59 AM
Bruiser 1
Electrical Systems/Wiring
5
Jan 27, 2008 02:24 PM
cbwarrior
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Jul 28, 2006 11:52 AM