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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

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  #1  
Old 08-17-2001, 07:52 PM
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

 
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Old 08-21-2001, 11:41 AM
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

I have a 1992 Ford F-150 2wd manual with an inline 300 6-cyl. Everything is stock on the truck from factory. I am having trouble starting the truck when I push the clutch down. I have to shove the clutch through the floor to get the engine to turn over. I do not want to have to pay $700 to replace the whole clutch. Is there anyway to adjust the switch? If so, where is it located and what do I need to do to adjust it?
 
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Old 08-21-2001, 12:00 PM
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

I am not sure if the 92 is the same, but on my 88 the switch is a black box located above the gas pedal and it rides on the shaft to the clutch master cylinder.

You can pull the connector off and then the switch comes off. I cleaned mine out and it helped a little. What really helped was changing the bushings in the cross-shaft and on the master shaft.

That made it work much much better.

Check those out.

Randy
 
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Old 08-21-2001, 07:14 PM
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

What happens when you don't have the clutch through the floor? If it doesn't do anything when you turn the key then it's the switch. Easy fix here - either replace/adjust the switch ..... or remove the switch and figure out which wires get connected when you activate the switch and "hot wire" it. (What kind of moron needs to be reminded that the clutch isn't in anyway - Hot wiring it would also let you start in neutral and make it possible to install a remote start.)

If it makes a clicking sound or sounds like the starter is trying to work then your clutch is not dis-enganging it is a little worse. Second symptom might require new clutch, slave, master, or just bleeding the slave. Tough to tell. How's the clutch work once started?
 
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Old 08-21-2001, 09:26 PM
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS WHEN STARTING

A common problem on 88s and maybe later trucks is the sheetmetal that the master clutch cylinder is attached to separates from the firewall due to broken spot welds. Look at the master cylinder while someone depresses the pedal. When the separation happens the safety switch is not sufficiently compressed to make contact.
Good Luck
 
  #6  
Old 07-25-2006, 09:00 AM
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The Neutral Safety Switch has gone bad on your truck. There are six wires going to the switch, attach a jumper wire between the two red wires. Doing this bypasses the switch allowing you to start with out depressing the clutch. I just did this to my 1992 Ford because I was having the same problem and it is cheaper than buying a $ 64 switch.
 
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Old 07-25-2006, 12:32 PM
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I'm with MulletWagon...do a search for firewall flex and you'll get some good threads describing similar symptoms.
 
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Old 07-26-2006, 06:48 AM
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...Welcome idahoelksniper to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

See you on the boards. ….
 
  #9  
Old 07-28-2006, 11:52 AM
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I just did this also last night and it works great. I was having to practically stand on my clutch to get it started. The guy who sold me the truck wants it back to use as a ranch truck. He can leave it "bypassed" or buy a new switch if he prefers. Easy fix to annoying problem.
 
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