so I found this, and I'm probably going to buy it.

It's a set of headers(that won't fit my truck) a Mallory (he thinks it all in one, going to double check today) and a 6=8 sided raft intake with weber 45's. Oh and there's a Clifford cam lifters and springs new in box


Who knows how good these are and what I should expect to pay for all of it?

 

45s are a little small for a 300, but will work on the street. Somewhat hard to tune right for a big 300 motor. The intake appears to be cracked.
The Mallory looks like a Double Life (two sets of points on a 3-lobed shaft). I use one on my Logghe nostalgia racer. Note that it does not have an O-ring below the hold-down flange. That requires a gasket between the dist and the engine block to prevent oil seepage out the block. Therefore, the only way the distributor case will be grounded is thru the hold down clamp, which may-or-may-not be a good ground. I found this out last weekend in fact when my Logghe drag car just shut off mid-run, stone cold dead, quit. It restarted at the end of the track (miraculously, I won that round as my comp broke out - we were on our way to a double breakout race). The next morning I added an external ground wire from the block to housing and all was good for final eliminations.

 

Oh, boy!! I'd love to have that gear on a 240 in a '66 Fairlane coupe for the street!!

 

Are you saying I should not get it and just run a dual 38 setup from Clifford.

 

Like FTF mentioned the 45's are a little small for a 300. They'll work for a street car. If you wanted triple carbs 3 Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150's would be a lot easier to tune. Not to mention much cheaper.

Oh yea and I'd stay away from the Clifford performance cams. The had issues with cam lobes being too soft.

 

Wait, after throwing in the towel on tuning the Quickfuel carburetor that's on your engine now you're contemplating switching to a multi-carb set-up? After you've already swapped an Offenhauser DP for a C-Series intake? Why not try an Edelbrock carb or a smaller vacuum-secondary Holley/derivative carburetor instead?

 

I Wanted the dual carb to begin with, but the cost. And now I have super lean 1/6 and super rich 3/4 cylinder.

That cam is old and has been ran, and comes with everything for it, springs and lifters.

I was asking about those because I was ease of swap.

I don't want to throw three grand into an intake, but I can live with 1300$, which is either the setup above, or the Clifford duals.


If the 45 are small for a street 300, I reckon they'll be way too small for my motor.

 

Or try a single Autolite 2100 2V. You can't get a whole lot simpler and they do run great.

If you want dual carbs call up Clifford and see if they will still sell just the dual carb intake. And then pick up a couple Autolite 2100's! It'll run great and is a whole lot cheaper then $1300. The intake with carb mounts would probably run $500-$600.

 

BTW, the 66-248-4 on that cam would seem to indicate it's a Comp 268H.

 

The intake is like 400 itself, then the gasket and the cost of the adapters, then the cost of not one, but three carbs.

That's more then 1300. For 1300 I get an intake Clifford says is tuned to my engine. I'm sure it'll need a few tweaks but hey it's better then rebuilding three used carbs, hoping they are all set up the same way, and getting them all in time with the throttle setup I create

 

A dual carb intake means two carbs not three. You can get two used Autolite 2100's for well under $100.00 And rebuild them for less then that. And it doesn't get much easier then rebuilding a 2100.

Two 2100's are a lot simpler and more reliable then the dual progressive webers clifford sells on their dual carb set up. And a hell of a lot cheaper.

If you don't like rebuilding carbs you might want to pass on a set of used side draft webers.

I think you might want to try Baron's suggestion first. Pick up an Edelbrock 500 cfm 4V throw it on and see how it runs.

 

So clue me in on this, because I never had any of those cool sidedraft Webers (nor the downdraft version), but I understood that they had great adjustability for any situation, including throat size. You rebuild your engine, all gaskets and seals are good, any vacuum hoses replaced with new, and so on and so forth. So, once you get all of the Webers' adjustable parameters dialed-in, and the three carbs balanced with manometers, and protected with good filtering, why should they go out of adjustment?

Only Weber I've used is a 32/36DGEV progressive 2bbl that was no harder to set up than anything else once I asked the Formula Ford guys who used it for decades. I have one 40/DCNF (one step "beneath" those carbs in the photos above) , which VW racers like, but which I've yet to use on anything . . . but the previous, anonymous owner had used it on a Big Six, adapted to an early Clifford single 4bbl manifold . . . .

 

I would use a 500 2barrel, if I didn't have a built motor.

I wanted duals to begin with, and the dcoe don't need rebuilt, but he recommends since they've sat, but obviously he had them tuned on a 300, so they should all be close

If I buy two random 2100, I have to rebuild them, caliper them, and micrometer them, to make sure they are good, along with creating a linkage, and setting up on a manifold, adapters and all the like.

I love webers. I had a 600 on an old el Camino, had a 38 on my samurai, a little bit but she really spun those little 33".

Also have a great friend with a 32/36 on his Chevy inline stepside, Apache era.


I understand ford or whatever, and I understand it might be an easy carb, I can rebuild and tune a carb, I'm not worried about that. I don't want to, I can't have my truck down for anymore time. It's been over a year since I have dd her. I need a truck, and my psd is getting old hauling and dd at 383k miles. She uses and looses about as much oil as she does diesel.

If you can find a dual setup with 2100's I'll buy them, but they have to have been tuned and ran on a 300 straight six.

I ONLY considered the dcoe, because sidedraft. I mean who doesn't want a sidedraft setup? I asked about them and I got information saying they are a little small on a stock setup, and I am well beyond stock. Between the 10:1, 0.050 over bore and the fact that I've hit 5500 rpm and she had plenty of throttle and pull to her says that I can easily keep going. Ftf said I should be able to hit 6500 in another post, so a 500cfm 2brl will not be enough, AND I'll still have two lean cylinders, and likely two rich cylinders.

If my 600 can fuel it perfectly through the rom range, then a 500 will not have the top end I want, and deserve. My idle circuit is ****ed, and it's not because of tuning, or lack of.


And I'll never out edelbrock on my truck, except maybe if I go to efi, and then it's just a front has sump, and hopefully someone else has made one by then.

 

Turn those webers into Throttle bodies...

Often wondered how hard it would be to stuff some injectors in those side draft carbs, and add a throttle position sensor somewhere. Retro look, butt advanced EFI

 

I'm sorry but those DCOE's do need rebuilding. If a carb/s has/have been bought used it/they should be rebuilt before running. And just because they were ran on a 300 doesn't mean it's a bolt on and be ready to run perfect on your engine. Every engine is going to need the carbs tuned for that engine. Do you really think the guy that ran those DCOE's had an identical engine to your 300?

The 2100's are about the easiest carbs to rebuild and set up for multiple carbs. It doesn't take a whole lot to match them as long as you use the same size ones.

To me it sounds like you just want to buy a carb set up slap it on and have it run perfect. That's not going to happen with any carb set up. I think you should really just go with a self learning efi set up. I just don't think you'd be happy with any carb set up.