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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

6.0 no start

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Old Sep 27, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #16  
jswartz84's Avatar
jswartz84
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From: Roseburg, OR
It wouldn't be a bad idea to pop the upper fuel filter cap off, turn the key on and see if it fills up quickly.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2015 | 11:22 PM
  #17  
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Gerren Vining
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I am also having the same problem. I cut my truck off last night and went in the house. Came back out put the key in the switch turned it over, all the dash lights came on and all of the familiar sounds came from the engine compartment. When I turned the key all the way over nothing...Not even a grunt. I got on this website and started reading. I got into the fuse box under the hood and started messing with fuses. After a little while of pulling out fuses and inspecting them I tried to crank the truck again and it cranked right up. I shut it off and tried it again and it fired right up. I shut the door went back in the house and didn't think much about it again. I got in it this morning and it fired right up. I drove two hours home and parked at the house let it set so the turbo would cool down and shut it off. Tried to crank it back up and nothing. I am a new 6.0 owner. 2006 f250 Amarillo with 8 inch lift.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #18  
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batteries were load tested and fully recharged yesterday and tested great

Checked cam and crank sensors for chaffed wiring- good there

Upper fuel filter bowl fills quickly

Oil filter bowl fills about like it should

Still cannot get rpm to 100 to even try and start still 50-70ish on crank

Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #19  
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WatsonR
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From: Virginia Beach VA
you need the starter to hit 150rpm minimum to start. If you need a new starter, buy the 6.4 model for the 2008 year f250/350. It fits as a direct swap and hits higher RPM for quicker starts.

Try turning the A/C control **** to off. My A/C condenser went out dragging down the starter. See if that helps. You could remove the belt to eliminate anything attached to the motor, like tensioner's, power steering, alternator, A/C condenser....
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 11:03 AM
  #20  
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WatsonR
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Originally Posted by Gerren Vining
I am also having the same problem. I cut my truck off last night and went in the house. Came back out put the key in the switch turned it over, all the dash lights came on and all of the familiar sounds came from the engine compartment. When I turned the key all the way over nothing...Not even a grunt. I got on this website and started reading. I got into the fuse box under the hood and started messing with fuses. After a little while of pulling out fuses and inspecting them I tried to crank the truck again and it cranked right up. I shut it off and tried it again and it fired right up. I shut the door went back in the house and didn't think much about it again. I got in it this morning and it fired right up. I drove two hours home and parked at the house let it set so the turbo would cool down and shut it off. Tried to crank it back up and nothing. I am a new 6.0 owner. 2006 f250 Amarillo with 8 inch lift.
Start a new thread, it will get more attention... your issue is different that this one, you have a hot/no start issue, not a starter issue.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #21  
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Ac compressor finally locked up completely yesterday and I could identify that it was the problem. Before I thought it was hard to turn but wasn't sure. Now it's locked up and obviously the problem. Does anyone have a link to the ac compressor replacement procedure, I can't seem to find it. I assume the compressor needs to come out through the top.
Remove fan shroud and possible even the fan? As far as contamination goes, when I pull the orfice tube, clean means I'm good and dirty oil means that it is contaminated correct?
If contaminated does the condenser also need replacing or can I flush tubes and just replace compressor, accumulator, orfice tubes and o rings?
Evac system and flush before or after new compressor is installed?

Thanks, Anthony
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 01:25 PM
  #22  
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WatsonR
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Originally Posted by anassar11
Ac compressor finally locked up completely yesterday and I could identify that it was the problem. Before I thought it was hard to turn but wasn't sure. Now it's locked up and obviously the problem. Does anyone have a link to the ac compressor replacement procedure, I can't seem to find it. I assume the compressor needs to come out through the top.
Remove fan shroud and possible even the fan? As far as contamination goes, when I pull the orfice tube, clean means I'm good and dirty oil means that it is contaminated correct?
If contaminated does the condenser also need replacing or can I flush tubes and just replace compressor, accumulator, orfice tubes and o rings?
Evac system and flush before or after new compressor is installed?

Thanks, Anthony
Compressor locked could mean the clutch is bad. Evac the system, pull the tube and look for debris. If none, you can do just a clutch and orifice tube and go. If debris is there, compressor is toast. Condensor, compressor and new tube.
Flush lines, vacuum the system and recharge it.
Advance Auto carries all the stuff you need. Buy on line, do in store pickup and use promo code TRT30 to save $$$. When the cart gets to $150, use the code and check out. I did this exact repair and used the code three times and saved $50 each time. Keep the cart to as close to $150 as you can to save the max, going over will only get you $50.

If its locked, it could be the clutch, needs a special tool to remove it. Remove the inner fender guard and the tire, mine came out the side pretty easy.... less than 2 hours for the entire job. I did compressor, Condensor and orifice tube... to keep the A/C compressor warranty you have to do a condensor and tube. Cost was $400 parts + $149 A/C service + 2.3lbs freon.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 04:48 PM
  #23  
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Ok I'm finally getting to the truck after vacation.

How in the hell do you get to the bolts on this compressor?!
I pulled the tire and splash shield and I can see two of three but I have no idea how to get to the two lower bolts

Top one is easy but the other two I've been fighting with for over an hour now. It's two bolts how hard can this really be?!!
If I read it right one is a 13 mm is it the front or rear one. Can barely see both and can't even get a ratchet wrench on either
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:34 AM
  #24  
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Gerren Vining
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Start a new thread, it will get more attention... your issue is different that this one, you have a hot/no start issue, not a starter issue.
Actually it was the starter. It still does it from time to time and I can get out tap the starter a few times and it cranks.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #25  
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Originally Posted by Gerren Vining
Actually it was the starter. It still does it from time to time and I can get out tap the starter a few times and it cranks.
Glad to hear. Mostly when the truck doesn't start after its up to temps, its from lack of hpo. Your sounds like a starter solinoid I you have to bang it. Put a 6.4 starter on it before it leaves you stranded.... and it will. The key to starter issues is, one click when you turn the key or no click at all and dash lights up. Dead batteries just a bunch of clicks and no turn over of the motor. Truck turns over and doesn't start, low ICP, low RPM of the starter or A/C clutch froze up and /or sync issues.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 08:02 PM
  #26  
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FICMrepair.com
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Put a 6.4 starter on it before it leaves you stranded.... and it will.
x2. The top bolt is a pain to get to, but nothing an extension and some patience can't fix.
 
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