bought my dream truck about a month ago but i noticed that the deltas are high in the 20s. i also noticed the coolant is green would it help to flush and add the ford coolant. or should i get the oil cooler done and erg delete and turbo cleaned at the same time. wife is a little unhappy that i have to dump cash into it but i know its all lack of maint.

 

You will definitely have to get rid of the green coolant and replace with either gold or CAT rated ELC coolant. Many use the latter.

Definitely going to need an oil cooler job with those deltas, I'm in the same boat. It is easy to do an EGR delete while doing an oil cooler.

 

Moved over to the 6.0L PSD forum.

Stewart

 

I'm sure my wife would be unhappy too, might help to tell her if you put this off you will be dumping a lot more cash into it down the road if not taken care of soon.
If you have the ability to turn a wrench it's a job you can do yourself and save a nice chunk off cash. Don't let the words Powerstroke or diesel scare you, it's pretty straight forward repair your looking at. The intake and cooler being out will make the turbo removal easier,
One nice thing about doing a cooler is you can do the flush and not worry about the cooler plugging up since it's coming out anyway.

 

Before changing the oil cooler, clean the coolant system with some VC-9 first. Run it for a few hundred miles after cleaning, then flush with tap water for about 8 times, then do the oil cooler. EGR delete if right there. Clean the turbo too while you're there. Put a blue spring kit if it doesn't already have one.

Back flush the heater core while you have it apart.

The VC-9 will loosen things up and those things will lodge in the old oil cooler. Changing oil coolers will get that crud completely out of your system

 

Fixed that for you. Good advise.

 

Nope. I meant tap water, but I should have completed the thought. Why waste all that distilled just to pick up trash and take it to the oil cooler. You'll want to dump that nasty stuff you run after the vc9. The tap is to make sure all the green or gold stuff is gone.

The 8 flushed with distilled come after the oil cooler when you fill with elc with an extremely clean coolant system.

 

Completely agree.

 

I'm going to let you know what I did, and many are going to be a bit "combative" here, but just hear me out.

I was in the same exact situation as you in March. I bought a externally perfect 2005 F350 CCLB DRW 4x4 with just under 100k on it. I drove it for about two weeks and things started to become obvious that indicated problems. First off, climbing deltas, sticking turbo vanes, coolant that shortly after I purchased the truck decided to turn to orange sludge and finally a in-traffic stall that resulted in me finding a bad STC fitting, a damaged IPR solenoid and oil leaks galore coming from nearly everything on top of the engine. I also had an intermittent fuel gauge, bad EGR valve, slightly leaking EGR cooler,inoperative fan clutch, rust in the bed rails (that was covered up by tape and gray paint), stuck rear brake slide pins and overheated cracked front caliper pistons. Honestly, the only thing that was good were the head gaskets. None of this was able to be detected during the test drive, without the truck being disassembled and all I could do is bite the bullet on it.

I had it towed to the Ford dealer I purchased it from, and to my astonishment, I found they never even checked the vehicle in, and never really looked at it (as admitted by the sales person I bought it from).
They didn't do anything for me but call with a $5000 estimate. I told them to get bent, that they sold me garbage and I'll come get it.

I then went to work finding parts. I read all of the complaints about dorman oil coolers and how bad they are, I took this into account and found an alternative. A-1 Cardone remanufactures these oil coolers, by hot tanking and pressure flushing the stock coolers. I was skeptical at first but I bought one for $140. This saved me hundreds. I installed it with a FORD OEM gasket, not the one that came with it as it was made of an incorrect type of rubber. I installed it, along with a new STC fitting ($50), rebuilt the turbo (rotomaster kit $70), fan clutch ($275 Autozone, same as OEM unit for less money and better warranty), New IPR ($140 new on ebay), fuel level sensor, ($10 salvage yard), cleaned the EGR valve, deleted the EGR ($50 ebay), replaced the front calipers with lifetime warranty units from Autozone, New slide pins ($10 advance auto)and brackets in the rear($50 autozone), flushed the coolant with VC9 and installed fleet charge coolant, installed a coolant filter, replaced thermostat and then I had to deal with the rust in the bed rails. I bout $80 worth of channel steel and cut the old rails out and welded these in. I then pained the entire bottom of the bed with eastwood rust encapsulator and painted the frame in KBS RustCoat.

Although this is extreme, I get 4 degree deltas with the reman-ed cooler and the truck hasn't had a single problem since.

 

20 degree temp difference at what speed and load?

Josh

 

about 75 - 80 i dont pull anything. but i notice the deltas go up slowly.

 

I get an 8 to 9 delta at 80 mph, and my oil cooler and oil cooler bypasd valve has less than 2,000 miles on them. It's about 6 at 65 mph.

The engine load at 80 mph stays around 60%. Although I
I have no hard evidence, I'm convinced after watching my temps closely, that the oil cooler bypass valve starts opening at an engine load of 75 to 80% with the old style hpop. Perhaps this is why international upgraded it in 2005.

Thor, I kinda like the ingenuity ..... And guts to try a remain oil cooler. Sorry to hear you were the recipient of someone else's gross dishonesty. In my book, this is almost equal to a thief.

 

You've gotten some amazing advice on this thus far. There is a truly great coolant flush write-up that one of my customers allowed us to publish. Check out 5. Backflush the oil cooler - lose the Ford Gold coolant..

We'd be happy to hook you up with all the parts you need for this job as well - just for way less cash than you'll spend elsewhere. You'll find much of what you need on the ficmrepair.com site, but if anything is missing from what you have in mind, drop us a line!