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Wheel Stud Question

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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 12:53 PM
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Wheel Stud Question

Howdy guys and gals

I am running factory hubs (Front drum) and rear axles (HD 9" w/9 3/8" Ring Gear) on a 1970 F100 4x2.

What I am wanting to do is swap out the stock studs for longer newer studs to hold the newer rims and lugs that I am running. The stock studs are standard and the newer type are metric threaded.
I have the rims on the truck now but I would like an extra 1/2 inch length on them. That way the nut has more to hold onto.
I am also missing 2 of the nuts for the rims. They are the ones with the torque washer attached. I found out that they don't make a standard thread version so someone must have rethreaded or forced the ones I have onto the studs since they are standard.

There are 2 sizes that I know of for the nuts. I have the smaller 19MM versions and not the larger 21MM's. I need to stay with the smaller size so the center caps will still fit.

So, do they make the metric studs in a length about 1/2 inch longer than stock that will fit the factory hubs and axles from my 70 F100?

Here is a pic of the rim and the lugs on the truck as it is now.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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Hmm. The shank of the studs Might be the problem Greg. I could go back to our shelf and see if we have some that would work. Ford lists the rear studs (as an example) only as 1/2"-20 X 1 5/8" long. A9AZ1107B. No shank length. But I did just find serration diameter .618"/.628".
I'll have to bring my Mic in to work tomorrow. I can pretty much guess how long the shank would be for those rears. But not for the front. I'd have to get the measurements off the front studs.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2015 | 07:15 PM
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OK, let me know what you find out. I hope I can get something to work. I don't mind if the front shank doesn't hold the drum to the hub. I don't think it would cause any issues. It would actually make checking the front a lot easier if the drums were loose from the hub.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 04:12 AM
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another source might be six Roblees. I know we ordered axles, drums and parts from them. Dexter axles carries those nuts with the washers attached. They are suppose to keep customers from over tighting the lug nuts and breaking out the center of the wheel. The torque is lower on those combo nut/washer units too!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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So far I came up negative on the rear studs Greg. Haven't tackled the fronts yet. The only stud we have in stock here with the correct diameter shank is off a E250 van. But it's got the bigger 9/16" threads. I tried 98 and 02 F150 rears. Two different part numbers but both have smaller shanks.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 03:06 PM
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Jeff, thanks for the update and info.

GaryKip, I will look into them to see if they make ones that will fit the factory stud threads if I can't find longer updated studs. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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Front studs are listed as C6TZ1107B. I didn't look into see if that number had been replaced because we want something different anyways. But on the C6TZ1107B I found this on-line.


<table class="bdydesc" border="0" cellspacing="5"><tbody><tr><td>1/2-20 Serrated Wheel Stud; .622 In. Knurl; 1-13/16 In. Length</td></tr></tbody></table><table class="bdytext" border="0" cellspacing="5"><tbody><tr><td>When it comes to your wheels, don't take chances. Dorman's Wheel Studs are produced to strict engineering quality standards. Our engineers design these parts with tight tolerance on specific part characteristics to ensure proper fit and function, this design provides assurance your wheels will be tight every time they are removed and installed. Lug Stud Style Guide:

</td></tr></tbody></table><table class="bdytext" border="0" cellspacing="5"></table><table class="moreinfotable" style="width: 500px;"><tbody><tr><td>Knurl Diameter (In)</td><td>0.622</td></tr><tr><td>Quick-Start Nose</td><td>No</td></tr><tr><td>Shoulder Length (In)</td><td>0.75</td></tr><tr><td>Stud Material</td><td>Steel</td></tr><tr><td>Style</td><td>Serrated Stud</td></tr><tr><td>Thread Handling</td><td>Right Hand Thread</td></tr><tr><td>Thread Size</td><td>1/2"-20</td></tr><tr><td>Under Head Length</td><td>1.813"</td></tr></tbody></table><table class="bdytext" border="0" cellspacing="5"><tbody><tr><td>Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 3580693, 6101481, 98214, 982141, B9AZ1107A, C6TZ1107B, C9AZ1107A, D3TZ1107A, D3TZ1107B</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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Well, I ran across a couple of studs with shanks that might work but they are 14MM thread. And since I noticed your lug nuts are offset outboard on the wheel holes it looks to me like you need 12MM studs. Everything I got here in 12MM the shanks are approx. .58X.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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Indeed. I believe that not only would the wheels not fit, but neither would the center caps.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 01:20 AM
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Greg, the problem I see is that the wheels you have are hub-centric wheels and the wheel pattern is metric. Your F-100 uses a lug-centered 5.5" pattern so I cannot see how it would work. The studs are off-center for the wheel. It is not good. You could get the nut-seating area widened by machining to allow for a flat, not coned lugnut to seat down on the rim surface. There are companies that make longer studs so try Summit Racing or another company.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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It works because of the wider pattern of the studs. They center the wheel instead of the hub centering them. I could also get centering rings for them if I had any issues with them not centering, but I have not had this issue. You just have to be careful installing the wheels onto the studs so you don't mess up the studs or wheels.
 
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