Advice needed & wanted-
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Advice needed & wanted-
I have a disassembled 1967 Ford F100 manual 3 speed on column with a 352 v8 stock. This winter I am planning on working on the motor. The motor ran fine and then sat for 6 years. The motor turns by hand and there are only 60K miles on it. I planned on attempting to do all motor parts swap myself with just cleaning it up and doing what I can do in the garage. I am not going to be racing/beating this truck but more of a (sentimental) driver and hunting truck so efficiency and a little power is good. So here is what I was planning-
Buying a master rebuild kit for the engine. a kit for rings pistons cam etc. Now here is where i bow down to YOUR expertise- I would like to get a new intake, carb, headers, and go with electronic rather then points & condenser distributer. I am having a lot of trouble figuring out what works best, what works well with other parts for ease of setting and making it work properly and honestly I have read so much my eyes are bleeding from all the internet links that just fail!
I was thinking of buying a motor top end kit just so everything is matched etc. I just would like some advice from Guru's looking to help out a novice. Sorry for the long post but I kinda want to honor my fathers truck while not really being a TRUE mechanic....
Buying a master rebuild kit for the engine. a kit for rings pistons cam etc. Now here is where i bow down to YOUR expertise- I would like to get a new intake, carb, headers, and go with electronic rather then points & condenser distributer. I am having a lot of trouble figuring out what works best, what works well with other parts for ease of setting and making it work properly and honestly I have read so much my eyes are bleeding from all the internet links that just fail!
I was thinking of buying a motor top end kit just so everything is matched etc. I just would like some advice from Guru's looking to help out a novice. Sorry for the long post but I kinda want to honor my fathers truck while not really being a TRUE mechanic....
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
Welcome to the site Labrat errr dog!
Right or Wrong, here is my experience and what I have done several times in the past.
Especially with only 60K on the engine. I replace all gaskets including the head gasket because I hand lap my valves and straight edge the exhaust ears. If the ears are cupped, I take my heads to a machine shop and have them surfaced. I've been know to use emory cloth inside the itake ports of the head and the intake, just to smooth it down.
Replace ALL freeze plugs with brass, high volume oil pump, timing chain, Install a windage trey while your there. Good cheap horse power.
Sense I'm spending your money, I'd put a .268 cam in it. It a middle of the road cam. Lil more than stock put won't change lanes at idle. RPM edlebrock intake, 2" spacer to Eddy 600 cfm carb.
Replace the rear main seal while you have the engine out.
That's me. That's what I do. I'm not and engine architect, but it gets me down the road...in a hurry.
ME? I wouldn't mess with the rings or cam bearings. You need to know your business there.
Right or Wrong, here is my experience and what I have done several times in the past.
Especially with only 60K on the engine. I replace all gaskets including the head gasket because I hand lap my valves and straight edge the exhaust ears. If the ears are cupped, I take my heads to a machine shop and have them surfaced. I've been know to use emory cloth inside the itake ports of the head and the intake, just to smooth it down.
Replace ALL freeze plugs with brass, high volume oil pump, timing chain, Install a windage trey while your there. Good cheap horse power.
Sense I'm spending your money, I'd put a .268 cam in it. It a middle of the road cam. Lil more than stock put won't change lanes at idle. RPM edlebrock intake, 2" spacer to Eddy 600 cfm carb.
Replace the rear main seal while you have the engine out.
That's me. That's what I do. I'm not and engine architect, but it gets me down the road...in a hurry.
ME? I wouldn't mess with the rings or cam bearings. You need to know your business there.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
EXCELLENT!!! Thats exactly what I need! Thank you very very much..
Do you think I should replace valves, pistons and rings(are these the rings you wouldnt mess with)?
What is a windage trey?
Also do you think i should go with electric fuel pump or keep it mechanical?
Another question thats been bugging me-- Is it possible to change the rear differential from single wheel to limited slip without swapping rear end out?
Do you think I should replace valves, pistons and rings(are these the rings you wouldnt mess with)?
What is a windage trey?
Also do you think i should go with electric fuel pump or keep it mechanical?
Another question thats been bugging me-- Is it possible to change the rear differential from single wheel to limited slip without swapping rear end out?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
Unless you have the shop and equipment for that type of work, don't mess with 'em. Just do a major FRESHEN UP on that engine and you'll have years of fun driving it.
A windage tray, goes between the block and the oil pan. It will serve 2 purposes. 1) keep the oil in the pan to feed the oil pump so the heads don't starve for oil (at high RMP's). 2) it keeps the connecting rods at the crank from slapping in the oil, thus less resistance.
IN MY EXPERIENCE, I have had no real need for an electric fuel pump. I have ran one on a toggle switch I used as a secondary kill switch. No fuel, no steal. There are others that have problems on hot summer days that have said their truck won't run with out a mechanical fuel pump as well.
Limited slip-Yes. there are four bolts per side behind the rear axle. Remove those, axle slides out and remove the bolts that hold in the pumpkin. Talk to 351Cleavlandc4. He installed a track-loc a few months ago. I will have to take mine to some one to set up as I don't have the knowledge or capability to do it myself and be right.
A windage tray, goes between the block and the oil pan. It will serve 2 purposes. 1) keep the oil in the pan to feed the oil pump so the heads don't starve for oil (at high RMP's). 2) it keeps the connecting rods at the crank from slapping in the oil, thus less resistance.
IN MY EXPERIENCE, I have had no real need for an electric fuel pump. I have ran one on a toggle switch I used as a secondary kill switch. No fuel, no steal. There are others that have problems on hot summer days that have said their truck won't run with out a mechanical fuel pump as well.
Limited slip-Yes. there are four bolts per side behind the rear axle. Remove those, axle slides out and remove the bolts that hold in the pumpkin. Talk to 351Cleavlandc4. He installed a track-loc a few months ago. I will have to take mine to some one to set up as I don't have the knowledge or capability to do it myself and be right.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
For the most part I agree with Teach. I am a little worried about the Age of the rings not the Mileage. I'd pull the heads also to get them freshened up and check the condition of the cylinder walls, any ring land, and measure the cylinders to see if you could get away with new "standard" rings.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
I'm in the middle of Teach and Jefffafa, I would do a compression test first. Then You'll know if you HAVE to change some stuff. But I like the idea of an RV cam, Pertronix electronic ignition kit,and do the high vol. oil pump, windage tray, and keep 6 qt.s of oil in it(remark your dipstick).
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,858
Likes: 254
From: missouri
all sound advice so far.. i might do a electric pump as a back up..but i like a mechanical for everyday driving..
the rest depends on what you want to SPEND!!!..if you have deeeeep pockets then for sure go with a new cam, pistons, heads, intake, carb..
but if on a budget like mine the catalog parts are not a option.. so just make sure the brakes and steering are top notch. then go for performance.. but on a low mileage truck, a compression test will tell you alot.. then a engine gasket set and good inspection and cleaning.. for the ignition i usually dig up a dura spark system from a later (76ish) model.. a stock carb rebuild and maybe a set of headers.. changing differential gearing is always a easy way to make the truck suit YOUR needs better.. you dont have to get real fancy the original type parts have served many very well . SO in the end that is what it all comes down to is how FAT!!! your piggy bank is..
the rest depends on what you want to SPEND!!!..if you have deeeeep pockets then for sure go with a new cam, pistons, heads, intake, carb..
but if on a budget like mine the catalog parts are not a option.. so just make sure the brakes and steering are top notch. then go for performance.. but on a low mileage truck, a compression test will tell you alot.. then a engine gasket set and good inspection and cleaning.. for the ignition i usually dig up a dura spark system from a later (76ish) model.. a stock carb rebuild and maybe a set of headers.. changing differential gearing is always a easy way to make the truck suit YOUR needs better.. you dont have to get real fancy the original type parts have served many very well . SO in the end that is what it all comes down to is how FAT!!! your piggy bank is..
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
Like whiskeyrunner said, how deep are your pockets? However, you can piece meal it out.
10-4 on the compression check before you take it apart.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
True story, a compression test would be a good Idea. But I would still yank the heads. Above I said to freshen them up. What I meant and should have said is to get them freshened up and hardened valve seats installed. 1967 352's were built before unleaded gas and therefore don't have hardened seats. We don' t want to "burn a valve" (seat) later down the road.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Advice needed & wanted-
As for your limited slip question, I would go with a drop in style lunchbox locker..they are cheap, reliable and do not require any special tools or setup of the gears.
I have a Yukon brand, billet machined, aggressive type trac-loc unit. It's nice, very smooth. (Can't hardly tell its there) but it really puts the power to both wheels. I have somewhat of a hard time getting the 31" tires to break loose on pavement.
But, if you are not changing gear ratios,keeping everything else the same, not putting down big power, and not beating on it overall, and using it off road for a hunting truck, then I think the locker will suit your needs better. (And save you a couple hundred bucks!)
One as such...
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171874708129
I have a Yukon brand, billet machined, aggressive type trac-loc unit. It's nice, very smooth. (Can't hardly tell its there) but it really puts the power to both wheels. I have somewhat of a hard time getting the 31" tires to break loose on pavement.
But, if you are not changing gear ratios,keeping everything else the same, not putting down big power, and not beating on it overall, and using it off road for a hunting truck, then I think the locker will suit your needs better. (And save you a couple hundred bucks!)
One as such...
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171874708129
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
351ClevlandC4, you say NO special tools are required for set up? That's what has scared me away from doing it myself. All the dial gauges and pinion depth
.
Do you have a link for what you installed or was that what you posted?
.Do you have a link for what you installed or was that what you posted?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Advice needed & wanted-
The link I posted is a spartan drop in locker. The reason you don't need special tools is because it does not require disassembly of the ring and pinion. The locker slips into the open carrier and replaces the spider gears.
I installed a full carrier trac-loc, that does require special tools and setup of the gears. This is what I installed.
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/371436159042
I installed a full carrier trac-loc, that does require special tools and setup of the gears. This is what I installed.
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/371436159042
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Advice needed & wanted-
Originally Posted by Labdog
Thanks everyone! This is such a help!!!!
not real sure what a Lunch box locker is!
Dang I am so impressed so far!!!!!!!!
Keep any advice coming! Its impressive!!
not real sure what a Lunch box locker is!
Dang I am so impressed so far!!!!!!!!
Keep any advice coming! Its impressive!!