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How do you get to the side gears without removing the carrier?
Backlash is set using the side bearings. Moving the carrier one way or the other moves the teeth closer/apart, thus setting the backlash. The "slop" in basic terms. There are spanner nuts on each end that allow you to move the carrier. How tight the bearings is the preload on the side bearings. When working on a used gearset, you measure it and then return it to that setting when putting it back together.
See the spanner nuts with the lock tabs that keep it from turning after you set it:
With some basic knowledge it isn't really that difficult.
Ah, so much like tightening the drive belt on the Harley?
I'll try to answer some of the OP original questions. A Pertronix electronic ignition module is an easy installation and very reliable. Make sure your distributor is in good condition. If not buy a rebuilt one in an auto parts store. A dual plane aluminum intake manifold and a 600 cfm carb is the ticket. You'll save 50 lbs on the manifold. An RV cam and, of course, new lifters and valve springs are a good power adder along with headers. If you can afford it Edelbrock makes a complete top end kit for an FE engine. Aluminum heads, manifold and cam and kit.
The link I posted is a spartan drop in locker. The reason you don't need special tools is because it does not require disassembly of the ring and pinion. The locker slips into the open carrier and replaces the spider gears.
If you had a Ford 8.8" rear end, this would be true. Its differential casting has a large opening in it for access to install something like a Spartan differential.
A Ford 9-inch differential is different. It is totally enclosed, when assembled. The Spartan unit cannot be inserted into a 9-inch differential without first removing the differential/ring gear, remove the ring gear from the open (single track) differential, break the single track differential case in half, remove select components, install Spartan differential, put differential case halves back together, reinstall ring gear onto differential, reinstall differential/ring gear back into 3rd member, reset ring gear-to-driving pinion tooth contact pattern.
No 'free lunch' with the 9-inch, in regards to installing the Spartan differential.
If you're going to go to the trouble of installing a differential in the rear end that will direct power to both rear wheels, you're probably much better off to install a complete limited-slip or Traction-Lok differential.
If you're not going to be constantly racing the truck but will primarily be using it on the street/highway, the '70-'86 Ford Traction-Lok differential is a very good unit. --stay away from the '69 Ford Traction-Lok or the 68-earlier Ford Equa-Lok, if you're going to use a factory differential that will direct power to both rear wheels.
Outside of the Ford Traction-Lok differential, there are numerous differentials available from the aftermarket.
I think you are thinking of a T/L case Train. They don't call a non-locking diff an "open" rear end for nothing.
That is an 8.8 carrier(or at least one for a typical Dana housing). Notice the small bolt that holds the center pin. I know a 8.8 LS has a big "S" spring to help push on the clutch packs.
Ultra posted good pictures showing what a typical 9" carrier looks like and the lack of opening big enough to get any parts out of it while still assembled.
If my diff ever has problems, I going to come visit you guys, This sounds way to hard, and some special tools must be needed. I'll make a cardboard sign that says" Will do electrical wiring for Diff. help" and stand on your street corner. LOL
HMMM, not me! I'll stand on their front porch and ring the door bell.
That's whats holding me back is the specialty tools. I'd have to build a few for my friends to make it worth spending the money. And learning how to use them as well.
HMMM, not me! I'll stand on their front porch and ring the door bell.
That's whats holding me back is the specialty tools. I'd have to build a few for my friends to make it worth spending the money. And learning how to use them as well.
You would, at minimum, need a dial-indicator/base to read case spread and to measure ring gear backlash, a ft-lb torque wrench and a beam-type in-lb torque wrench to read the preload on the driving pinion.
If you are working with a Ford Traction-Lok differential, it helps to have the Ford gauge tool to measure the clutch pack thickness (I have this tool) but, it can be done with a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges.
I will cut that list even further, because if you are not changing gears or bearings, you don't need much more than a 1/2" lb-ft torque wrench, a 6" dial caliper, and a spanner wrench of some sort. (I made my own)
The backlash can be set within specs with the dial calipers, and the only parts needing to be re torqued would be the ring gear (65lb-ft) and bearing caps. (80 lb-ft.)
You'll also need red loctite, at least a 10 mL bottle.
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