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This began a few months ago. At first came and went, made the front end shimmy. I realized the caliper was sticking, so I replaced it with new pads both sides.
Here we are a month later and it's been siezing again and has chewed the pad to nothing. FLAT OUT SIEZING and won't let go of the rotor.
Brake lines can fail internally causing residual pressure at the caliper. You can probably check this with the bleeder valve, see how much pressure you have on one vs. the other side.
it can also be the puck (piston) is stuck in the bore and will not retract when the oil pressure drops.. Sometimes you need to remove the rubber and clean the piston wall so it will enter the bore.
Also, check the caliper pins. They should be able to slide back and forth freely. I had to replace rotor, wheel bearing, and caliper on a Toyota Camry all because the caliper pins were crudded up and stuck and produced a lot of heat. Pins are cheap to replace and easy to clean.
Very good. I'll check it out again. This truck has 193,300 on it and looks and runs like a spry 60k.
I have inspected the caliper after replacing it and the pins etc are all lubricated. I will check the piston.
Also going to replace the pads just to buy time for replacement of the other caliper and rotors. I will make an appt to have the fluid flushed and changed as well.....I can do it but it's a hassle Lol I prefer getting dirty on my old cars!
it can also be the puck (piston) is stuck in the bore and will not retract when the oil pressure drops.. Sometimes you need to remove the rubber and clean the piston wall so it will enter the bore.
Can this be done without removing the caliper from the truck?
Brake lines can fail internally causing residual pressure at the caliper. You can probably check this with the bleeder valve, see how much pressure you have on one vs. the other side.
Replace the rubber brake line that goes from the frame to the caliper. There is a metal bracket in the middle of the line and it's famous for rusting and squeezing the line almost shut!