['03 F250 power stroke 7.3L, brand new second hand]

Was looking at threads re adding an oil additive (my first oil change due soon) and remain undecided about adding anything. Someone pointed out that if an additive was effective, Ford or another company would be using it. Probably after making an offer they owner couldnt refuse.

But someone pointed out "And 7.3L injectors don't have stiction issues. Completely different injector design."

Since injectors are $$$ to replace, what does a newbie need to know about their function to avoid screwing them up?

 

HEUI - How High-Pressure Oil Injection Systems Work - Diesel Power Magazine

 

Never been a fan of adding an oil additive. Some oils will aerate with an additive which is not good when the injectors use pressure to fire. Regular oil changes (I change mine every 5000) and a good quality oil you shouldn't have any problems. Some use rotella T6 for easier starting in the winter currently I'm using Castrol 15w40 for the first time and will get an oil analysis and see how it performs. I've also had good luck with chevron delo 400.

 

Aside from how they work, clean oil is essential for these injectors. My truck has run on Delo 400 15W-40 since new with 3K OCI. Some call this overkill and probably it is, however my oil is still a gold color (on the dipstick at least) when changed and my engine runs like a champ. Black oil = soot in suspension, and soot is abrasive. I just call it cheap insurance, but I only put about 3-4K miles on my truck per year.
It is actually fairly quiet without any fuel system mods. Don't need to turn up the radio at all LOL.

 

While there are differences between the 7.3L injectors and the 6.0L injectors they are still similar. The above article details the differences.

It has been almost 13 years since the last new 7.3L was crated and almost 9 for the 6.0L. Having owed both, I feel Ford/IH basically has left the two engines in the past, especially the 6.0L. A lot of the early adopters of the 6.0 felt they could beat on it, ride it hard and put it up wet like they had done with the 7.3. This included neglecting changing and keeping a good quality oil in the engine regularly. This has been the main cause of stiction in that engine...it is on the oil side of the equation due to carbon/soot and close tolerances.

Some of the additives that are available today had not been developed while Ford was dealing with the stiction issues. Some were developed as a result of those issues. From what I have read, Ford has settled all claims concerning the 6.0, so, what is the incentive for them to fix it now by buying/creating a product.

I think that one or two of the newer additives "do" address lubrication on the oil side of the equation better now than ever before. Some on here will state that the injector in the 7.3 has never had problems on the oil/lubrication side of the equation...that the problems are mostly on the fuel/lubrication side.

Even though at the time I thought that a friend was buying the latest snake oil, I have now personally seen Archoil work on the 6.0L.

So, if you are concerned about lubricating the injectors, I would concentrate on the fuel side of the equation first and then, if you want, the oil side.

Here are some links to recent fuel lubricity discussions:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-formula.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...additives.html

Shell Rotella T6 will be your best friend this coming winter..the injectors love the stuff..I am in the White Mtns. often during the winter and have no cold start issues on the oil side.

I know people who purchased the '03 6.0's and had no problems, while at the same time others purchased one and swore they would never own another Ford. My two were a mixed bag and there was no such thing as Archoil when I had them. I am back to a 7.3 now.

 

JHL -- thanks for the link

Looking at the price of some oil, it's almost cheaper to change more frequently.

Using the Archoil in the fuel - left in the truck by the previous owner who said to use it.

And now to the next problem ... I got underneath to put some rust inhibitor on the rust, and I thought I did prep OK using a power washer after letting Simple Green soak in some spots - but jeeze, there must be 100lbs of sand/grit in all the nooks and crannies! I noticed a drop of oil oil collecting under the nut of what I think is the oil pan. No streaks on the sides leading to the nut so I think the gasket might be the culprit.

 

This is in no way to take from "jhl3's" excellent post. Just some information and experience from courses and classes along the way. I may well have some of the dates incorrect. Correct me if you feel the need to.

Tom



Actually the 7.3 was available to outside U.S. Customers through 2007. EPA Killed it in the U.S. in 2005. Navistar stopped Domestic production for Ford in mid year MY2003.

The EPA has forced Ford to leave these engines. Since the sixties manufactures have seen regulatory implementation mandates.

In the U.S. The 4 Cylinder Commercial Truck Engines are a 6.0 with two cylinders missing - Seriously. They're identical excluding the exterior items such as two cylinders missing, an Air Box and such. And, they have the same problems as well. The application determines when the engine must meet a requirement.

There are Major Differences..... Not in theory but in manufacturing product specifications.

The Fuel Side has no similarities what so ever (other than the design operation theory). They are extremely advanced. And, they are extremely sensitive on the fuel side.

They [6.0] are no where's near as forgiving at the 7.3 Injector.

Operating with Low fuel pressure, water, or excessive air in the 7.3 injector allows the owner to have it repaired....... On the 6.0 injector, many have had to take out second mortgages for repairs. On the 6.4/6.7's.......... just consider Insurance Fraud. I have seen tickets with five zeros and a truck with half miles.

Actually, these additives have been around for Decades for the Diesel Industry. The Unit Injector was produced in the 30's and continually improved upon till today. The Additives for Stiction came to the market in the early 90's. But, weren't available to the Light Duty Truck Market until the early 2,000's. Even though, Ford / Navistar had produced Diesel Engines since 1982 for their Light Truck Market. But, then again, the HEUI came along late in the game for Ford and Navistar.

Fact: (I love this statement by the Author) "A Cult Following of Sorts has managed to provide Ford the top of the Light Truck Market for almost 50 years....... To keep it, they need to improve it..."

Ford and Navistar Redesigned their Light Duty Diesel and Development Program beginning with the 1999.5MY Trucks and it continues today. Ford is working on a five year plan. Just as they do with exterior face lifts. If they're not redesigning they'll never meet the regulatory guidance.

Power-Plants will eventually be a five year market, to include Diesels. It's what Ford considers the ONLY way to fend off the competition and, it's working thus far. Both of the other "Domestic Competitors" have introduced and improved Engine in the last few years.

The HEUI came along in the early 1990's exclusively by Caterpillar. Some sort of HEUI has been used since in IH, Navistar, and some Cummins Engines.

When CAT introduced the original HEUI design for their over the road engines in 1993 they were seeking ways to get the pressures their common rails weren't delivering. Common Rail made a big comeback into the industry in the late 1990's as they had figured the pressure system out and the requirements to meet clean air emissions and a way to control almost every action of the system to a nano-second.

The biggest advancements in the Chemical Lubricants Make Up of these properties began in the 1950's. "Micro" enhanced oil and lubricants hit the consumer market just after 1955. The Big difference today versus earlier is the discovery of how to make the molecules bind to one another.

In the early 80's, nano particles for lubrication and an advanced Synthetic Oil (Fully Laboratory Created) was introduced into the Racing Circuits by Manufacturers in the 70's. This all came about due to the Fuel Shortages of the 70's and then again in the 80's. Congress mandated companies deliver products which would conserve energy. Now, developers were using advanced laboratory techniques to discover how to get everything to work in harmony.

Everyone looked to the lubrication to do the work. Anyone who owned a Domestic Engine between the late 70's through the 80's basically had time-bombs. The manufactures learned if you change the lubrication properties you must also change the mechanical properties. And, Un Leaded Fuels did more to hamper the owners. Manufactures did not discover the Valve Trains need for lubrication until later.

03MY - 05MY was a DISASTER for both Ford and Navistar. The 05MY began the production of the 6.0 with several changes in the HPOP, Fuel, EGR, and Cooling System. The Head Studs were never addressed. I think that was due to the introduction of the 6.4 ??????

The difference between Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic, and Conventional Oils is the molecular size of the end product. The next, it's ability to displace heat.

But, a Synthetic, by and of itself will be of no help without additives by the manufacturer. And, they're required to maintain backwards compatibility (I forget how long??????).

I see people say they never use the chemicals and call them snake oil. And, some of them may be. But, whatever Oil you're using, it has additives regardless right out of the container.

None are intended for the widest range of any one market. What we have now is people developing things exclusively for the Light Duty Truck Diesel Engine. A piece of the Pie as it were. Good old American greed.

"See a market..... monopolize that market with product availability"

I have personally tested the top three and put my testing data on FTE for review.

Based on a specific problem the consumer is experiencing dictates the result. The Top Two are GREAT. But, if you're not having an issue. Or, you not seeking to keep one at bay. None of these will help you.

If you're not having a problem, how can one notice improvement?

The adage: This is not "Rocket Science" no longer holds true. This is "Rocket Science" and we're able to reep the benefits..... at a cost.

I use one of the top two's additives exclusively. I have not got the 2 mpg in fuel improvement. But, I did get a .75 mile improvement each tank and a 1.625 over all for 3,000 miles. Which saves me about $162 @ 3,000 miles. Subtract the cost of the additive and it's just this side $67 savings overall.

 

Personally i feel an additive to the fuel tank is important for maintaining injector life. I noticed my injectors quiet down a tad with a half quart if 2 stroke oil each tank. Optilube xpd is the best fuel additive imo.

 

We are not chemists, and the injectors really count on the oil behaving... so I am dissuaded from messing with the oil.

The fuel, however... that's another matter. These trucks were made before ULSD was introduced. The country changed the diet of our trucks for the sake of emissions, and "Stinky" doth protest. Additives for lubricity and higher Cetane levels would make our go juice behave more like the fuel of old.

 

So the best additive to fuel is .... [place argument here]! I think it may be like gun cleaners ... if you use the same one exclusively, it misses the whatever it misses over and over again, and then when you try a different one that gets what the first missed it looks awesome; but it too misses something (nothing is perfect....). So with my firearms, I rotate cleaning products and perhaps I should do the same with my other loud toy.

Perhaps treat a few tanks w Archoil, then a few tanks with another (where's that darn chart), and etc.

And now I just learned (perhaps) that my coolant (unknown green stuff that it came with) may need an additive!

 

I am not a fan of Power Service products like Diesel Kleen. I have not noticed much difference with them and the chart pretty much confirms this unless their formula has changed and they have not offered proof that it has to my knowledge.

Two stroke oil will be fine or Opti-lube will work in either of the three types listed with Schaeffers being in the middle of those. I use 2-stroke oil when I can't find anything better than PS DK.

The above two links offer a decent, recent perspective if no one else chimes in...the chart is there too.

As long as your engine is an 03', you are OK with Extended Life Coolant (ELC) which already has all the additives you need. If you don't have it, I would change to it...life is more simple....

 

Cool. More questions later.