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That is something I always wondered, what would happen if you put a different computer in? Would it run? What would it do? Would it blow up? Haha, crazy things to think about. I think I will play it safe and not buy that unit and order a refurbished one from Rock Auto. They seem to be the best and deliver to Canada. I think a good working computer could mean a lot to the life of the truck, hell it only has 50,000km! I hope she will last me a long time.
So I ordered the correct computer to be shipped to me. But I am still curious what would happen if I used another number of computer and what it would do to the truck. Anyone know?
Your RPM to shift ratio would be different.
You have a 3.08 ratio rear end and that truck has a 4.10 ratio rear end.
In other words it has different shift points in its tables as it is out a heaver duty truck than you have. There may be other slight differences as I do not know of all differences in the tables in the PCM.
The 0-76A-R10 code is not in my look up so I can not say much more about that truck.
What if I used this computer? What would happen? It's all I could find close in the junkyard. Looks like a similar truck only it's a supercab and mines a regular.
F0TF-BPA fits:
Ford F150 Pickup '90 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD, ID F0TF-BPA
Ford F150 Pickup '91 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD, Fed, ID F0TF-BPA
Ford F250 Pickup '90 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD, ID F0TF-BPA
Ford F250 Pickup '91 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD, std emis (Fed), ID F0TF-BPA
Ford F350 Pickup '90-91 Elec Cont Unit (ECU); 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD, ID F0TF-BPA
Pretty much any Fuel Injected 5.8L equipped truck w/E4OD 1993 and earlier.
Another option would be to take the old PCM to a radio repair shop and have them replace the bad caps and bridge the traces that have been ate through.
Small wires can also be ran from component to component that each trace services to make the bridges. Then spray the board with stripper.
If you are handy with a soldering iron you might be able to do this yourself. Others have done this and had better luck doing this than replacing the PCM from an auto part store.
Another option would be to take the old PCM to a radio repair shop and have them replace the bad caps and bridge the traces that have been ate through.
Small wires can also be ran from component to component that each trace services to make the bridges. Then spray the board with stripper.
If you are handy with a soldering iron you might be able to do this yourself. Others have done this and had better luck doing this than replacing the PCM from an auto part store.
Totally Agree!!
I would use the JY PCM for now and have my current one sent to a electronics repair shop. Even if your charged $100 for a quality repair, you know this PCM is yours and came with the truck. And you don't have to gamble on a refurbished unit from BFE.
I did this exactly on my MAF air conversion and now have 2 extra spares for $70, fully repaired by a locally owned electronics shop.
I would use the JY PCM for now and have my current one sent to a electronics repair shop. Even if your charged $100 for a quality repair, you know this PCM is yours and came with the truck. And you don't have to gamble on a refurbished unit from BFE.
I did this exactly on my MAF air conversion and now have 2 extra spares for $70, fully repaired by a locally owned electronics shop.
Good point. I am going to take my current computer to a local electronics shop today. If they fix it then I can send the one I ordered back to Rock Auto. It should be easy to return if I don't open it yes?
IIRC, you just have to pay for return shipping or something along those lines. It shouldn't be brutal....
But, you need to see what the electronic shop says about your first. You have a month I believe to return the refurbished unit.
These guys said the capacitors have all leaked and exceeded their life, and they need to clean up some areas where they leaked and corrosion. Will cost $75 and no guarantee to work. Plus he doesn't have 1 capacitor and needs to order it can take 3-5 days. Or I can wait for the rebuilt Cardone unit which I paid about $200 shipped and can return the core for $50 back or so.
The Cardone unit may or may not work and if it does not work you may have other errors that your old unit did not have. You would need to do the full KOEO and KOER self-test and if they both came back with 111 or 11 then take it for a drive of about 10 miles and then check to see if you have any codes in CM.
I would have opened up the unit from the salvage yard and if that caps looked OK. If they were OK I would have went with that one and then see if the electronics repair shop repaired unit would work.
The Cardone unit may or may not work and if it does not work you may have other errors that your old unit did not have. You would need to do the full KOEO and KOER self-test and if they both came back with 111 or 11 then take it for a drive of about 10 miles and then check to see if you have any codes in CM.
I would have opened up the unit from the salvage yard and if that caps looked OK. If they were OK I would have went with that one and then see if the electronics repair shop repaired unit would work.
Cardone says they have a machine to test the computers. Hope that's true. I'm going to go with the Cardone unit I think. The one from the salvage yard didn't look so great and was original. At least with the Cardone one they should replace all capacitors already. Age is the problem here I think.
Of course I will do a koeo test first then let you guys know if it works.
Don't feel so bad about the "No Guarantee" it'll work. They told me the same since they couldn't test mine, but they did say it wasn't thru the second layer of the board.
Sorry to hear they were iffy on the repair. There offer to fix but no guarantee seems odd, but they are probably more contracted to BIG electronic equipment such as Sony, Vizio, Samsung.
Sorry to hear they were iffy on the repair. There offer to fix but no guarantee seems odd, but they are probably more contracted to BIG electronic equipment such as Sony, Vizio, Samsung.
They do not guarantee their work because this item is outside of their expertise and comfort zone. With no way to thoroughly test the item I would not guarantee anything either. Simple risk and economics IMHO.
They do not guarantee their work because this item is outside of their expertise and comfort zone. With no way to thoroughly test the item I would not guarantee anything either. Simple risk and economics IMHO.
Yes I can understand their point of view. But with a unit from Cardone which they say is tested and all the vulnerable pieces fixed and updated that seems like a better choice. But I gotta wonder if they really do a good job, because I've heard many people have problems with rebuilt units.
Guess I'll find out. The unit should arrive tomorrow. I will update you all once I install the new computer. Meanwhile I just replaced the original muffler and tailpipes today. Drove it to the exhaust shop by manually shifting it. I will be so happy if this tranny will get out of limp mode.
Ok great news! The computer from Cardone worked excellent! No more Code 92 and transmission shifts fine.
Now on to the next problem. I thought I fixed the exhaust system when I just installed a new muffler and tailpipes. But still had an exhaust leak from the front somewhere and we found it on the EGR tube. Now that looks like it will be fun to change. I noticed that when you block the leak by hand the idle gets better. So I definitely need to fix the exhaust leak.
Otherwise everything seems to drive fine. Nice to have third gear back!