1975 ford engine Question
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1975 ford engine Question
OK so i have a 1975 with a 390 it is faqctory original however i would like to make it more modern. Does anyone know how i can go about doing that? I wann convert it to fuel injected and up date the distributor things of that nature. Please let me know
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE
While it certainly can be done, there is a pretty steep cost associated with doing so, at least in terms of "payback". I believe there are single point EFI manifolds available and things like that. Maybe $2500 -$3000? I don't see the point particularly.
While it certainly can be done, there is a pretty steep cost associated with doing so, at least in terms of "payback". I believe there are single point EFI manifolds available and things like that. Maybe $2500 -$3000? I don't see the point particularly.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
On sale day, 360's magically become 390's!
4th digit of the VIN is the engine code. 1973/76 F100/350: H = 390 2V / M = 390 4V (1974/76) / Y = 360 2V
390's not available with 4WD.
4th digit of the VIN is the engine code. 1973/76 F100/350: H = 390 2V / M = 390 4V (1974/76) / Y = 360 2V
390's not available with 4WD.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well, you can't keep it original, and make it more modern?
With that said a carburetor rebuild, good tune-up and maybe a fresh distributor, electronic ignition, etc will probably be about as good as it gets anyway. Don't forget to spend money on "whoa" as well as "go". Brakes, tires and suspension are important.
First step generally speaking though, is perform a compression check on each cylinder with the throttle held wide open. The procedure is on pg. 2 of my Motors Manual (and pg.1 is the table of contents.)
The reason or thinking behind a compression check first thing, if the engine particularly the pistons and rings are not mechanically sound there is little point investigating further or spending more money as such. Engine itself needs replaced or, a complete rebuild. If it passes this test, then the engine is generally OK candidate for tuning up and should respond well to your attention and last a long time.
But don't waste your time or money till you do this first. A vacuum gauge will work as well for this purpose to some degree, and has a lot of other uses as well. I recommend them highly.
With that said a carburetor rebuild, good tune-up and maybe a fresh distributor, electronic ignition, etc will probably be about as good as it gets anyway. Don't forget to spend money on "whoa" as well as "go". Brakes, tires and suspension are important.
First step generally speaking though, is perform a compression check on each cylinder with the throttle held wide open. The procedure is on pg. 2 of my Motors Manual (and pg.1 is the table of contents.)
The reason or thinking behind a compression check first thing, if the engine particularly the pistons and rings are not mechanically sound there is little point investigating further or spending more money as such. Engine itself needs replaced or, a complete rebuild. If it passes this test, then the engine is generally OK candidate for tuning up and should respond well to your attention and last a long time.
But don't waste your time or money till you do this first. A vacuum gauge will work as well for this purpose to some degree, and has a lot of other uses as well. I recommend them highly.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Remove radiator cap.
Back up truck and discard.
Drive low mileage 94-96 F150 under radiator cap.
Install radiator cap...... voila.
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