Upgrading 292
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Upgrading 292
Hey guys,
Got a 54 F100 with what I think is a stock 292, casting number is B9AE-?
Has got the stock Ford carb with the spring loaded piece at the side, what's this and how do you adjust it?
What's the best way to go to get some more power out of it?
Would I need a four barrel or are there any 2 barrel that give nice power for a truck?
Changing the exhaust headers is not that easy on a '54 f100 so any other good performance upgrades?
Got a 54 F100 with what I think is a stock 292, casting number is B9AE-?
Has got the stock Ford carb with the spring loaded piece at the side, what's this and how do you adjust it?
What's the best way to go to get some more power out of it?
Would I need a four barrel or are there any 2 barrel that give nice power for a truck?
Changing the exhaust headers is not that easy on a '54 f100 so any other good performance upgrades?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,275
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The orig stock engine would be a 239, and if the spring loaded thing you're talking about is round and black, its the automatic choke. With the engine cold, loosen the 3 screws holding the cap on, its marked lighter, or richer, adjust it till the choke plate goes shut, but only takes a little finger pressure to open it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
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Installing headers should be about as easy as it gets in a '54 F100. If it's not easy, then there is something else going on - maybe it's actually an earlier truck with a Y installed?
Headers are about the best bolt-on upgrade you can do. A 4 barrel should help with performance and economy. The distributor is most likely worn out. Replace it with a rebuilt unit. Getting everything properly tuned is also very beneficial. By that, I don't mean making sure everything is by-the-book. I mean actually taking the time to get everything tuned just right. By-the-book is merely a safe operating specification which is hardly ideal.
Almost anything more than that is going to require tearing into the engine, for things like a cam swap, increasing compression, etc.
Headers are about the best bolt-on upgrade you can do. A 4 barrel should help with performance and economy. The distributor is most likely worn out. Replace it with a rebuilt unit. Getting everything properly tuned is also very beneficial. By that, I don't mean making sure everything is by-the-book. I mean actually taking the time to get everything tuned just right. By-the-book is merely a safe operating specification which is hardly ideal.
Almost anything more than that is going to require tearing into the engine, for things like a cam swap, increasing compression, etc.
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Apart from ram horns, I don't see an easy way to go past the steering box. But I may have missed an opening around it.
What 4 barrel manifold and carb would be good for this one?
I'm not afraid of opening up the engine but don't want to say spend 2000 dollar just to have some more power. It will be a cruising truck, not a race truck
What 4 barrel manifold and carb would be good for this one?
I'm not afraid of opening up the engine but don't want to say spend 2000 dollar just to have some more power. It will be a cruising truck, not a race truck
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
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If the truck is stock, then headers made for the trucks will get around the steering box with no problem.
If the heads are correct for the block, then the ecz-9425-B manifold will be great. If you have the dough, you can get a Mummert or Blue Thunder aluminum manifold.
I don't know what your plans are, but 2000 dollars is really not enough to simply rebuild the engine, let alone modify it to "racing" specs.
You'll easily have over 1000 between intake, carb, exhaust, and ignition, but it should respond nicely to all of those. Dual exhaust is a must. Rebuilt distributor is a must. The 2 barrel should work ok. Rams horns, the distributor, and fine tuning what you have will be the most cost effective way to squeeze out a little more.
If the heads are correct for the block, then the ecz-9425-B manifold will be great. If you have the dough, you can get a Mummert or Blue Thunder aluminum manifold.
I don't know what your plans are, but 2000 dollars is really not enough to simply rebuild the engine, let alone modify it to "racing" specs.
You'll easily have over 1000 between intake, carb, exhaust, and ignition, but it should respond nicely to all of those. Dual exhaust is a must. Rebuilt distributor is a must. The 2 barrel should work ok. Rams horns, the distributor, and fine tuning what you have will be the most cost effective way to squeeze out a little more.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
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If the truck is stock, then headers made for the trucks will get around the steering box with no problem.
If the heads are correct for the block, then the ecz-9425-B manifold will be great. If you have the dough, you can get a Mummert or Blue Thunder aluminum manifold.
I don't know what your plans are, but 2000 dollars is really not enough to simply rebuild the engine, let alone modify it to "racing" specs.
You'll easily have over 1000 between intake, carb, exhaust, and ignition, but it should respond nicely to all of those. Dual exhaust is a must. Rebuilt distributor is a must. The 2 barrel should work ok. Rams horns, the distributor, and fine tuning what you have will be the most cost effective way to squeeze out a little more.
If the heads are correct for the block, then the ecz-9425-B manifold will be great. If you have the dough, you can get a Mummert or Blue Thunder aluminum manifold.
I don't know what your plans are, but 2000 dollars is really not enough to simply rebuild the engine, let alone modify it to "racing" specs.
You'll easily have over 1000 between intake, carb, exhaust, and ignition, but it should respond nicely to all of those. Dual exhaust is a must. Rebuilt distributor is a must. The 2 barrel should work ok. Rams horns, the distributor, and fine tuning what you have will be the most cost effective way to squeeze out a little more.
Should only cost me around 100 bucks for all of that.
Will look for that manifold, thanks for the info, what carb would be a good one, manual choked?
What suppliers have good quality headers for the F100?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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For the carb, pick your favorite brand, under 600cfm, for a stock to mild motor. The type of choke depends on your own preference.
Red's and Sanderson make good headers. Patriot also make a header that is cheaper but they seem to have fitment issues on some trucks - they hit the cross member that the bell housing mounts to.
Red's and Sanderson make good headers. Patriot also make a header that is cheaper but they seem to have fitment issues on some trucks - they hit the cross member that the bell housing mounts to.
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~Steve
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This was true on my '62. In my case, Summit took them back, even after advising me to try bending them (which I did not attempt). If time is not an issue, then they may be worth a try. For me, Red's fit perfectly, but the lead time was long--they had to weld up a set.
~Steve
~Steve
My carb experience is mainly on weber sidedraft carbs so I don't know much on US carbs.
Which ones are better / easier to tune?
I saw some carbs have special valves to match the amount of gas to the amount of airflow drawn by the engine, are they really ready to go, out of the box?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From my experience with Edelbrock and Holley, Holley is better and easier to tune and simply more tuneable.
There is no such thing as a carburetor that is ready out of the box. Yes, I know, the manufacturers tell you that but you will need to tune it for the best results. That said, if you go by their recommendation, you should have a carb that is close out of the box.
There is no such thing as a carburetor that is ready out of the box. Yes, I know, the manufacturers tell you that but you will need to tune it for the best results. That said, if you go by their recommendation, you should have a carb that is close out of the box.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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My best advice is to contact Holley, tell them what you have and go by their suggestion.
The 570 would probably be a good choice. It's a more modern design and has features that may or may not be that beneficial to you, like a quick change secondary spring housing, secondary metering block, center hung float bowls, dual inlet.
RE the classic, The 600 will bprobably be ok, particularly if you are planning on upgrades. The 390 is closer to what was actually used for '57 and the 465 is a nice upgrade from that but comes equiped with a hot air choke and is nearly as expensive as the street avenger.
If you do go with Holley, you can save some money by buying a refurbished unit from Holley on eBay. You might save $100 or more on a carb that is practically new. The warranty is period is shorter but it's not likely to have problems and if you get it installed right away, you will find any problems before that period is up.
The 570 would probably be a good choice. It's a more modern design and has features that may or may not be that beneficial to you, like a quick change secondary spring housing, secondary metering block, center hung float bowls, dual inlet.
RE the classic, The 600 will bprobably be ok, particularly if you are planning on upgrades. The 390 is closer to what was actually used for '57 and the 465 is a nice upgrade from that but comes equiped with a hot air choke and is nearly as expensive as the street avenger.
If you do go with Holley, you can save some money by buying a refurbished unit from Holley on eBay. You might save $100 or more on a carb that is practically new. The warranty is period is shorter but it's not likely to have problems and if you get it installed right away, you will find any problems before that period is up.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
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If your current carb functions properly, I would put the money into the exhaust and dizzy.
This is a low compression engine, a 4v will not make a significant power improvement, and there will be no improvement if the dizzy is wore out.
Is this a spark-o-matic setup? That's the first thing you need to determine. At 60+ years old, who knows what has been changed.
This is a low compression engine, a 4v will not make a significant power improvement, and there will be no improvement if the dizzy is wore out.
Is this a spark-o-matic setup? That's the first thing you need to determine. At 60+ years old, who knows what has been changed.