I have a 2003 6.0l, and I'm having some issues that I can't seem to figure out. When I first bought truck, seemed to run fine. Since then truck has broke down on me once. I took it on a six hour drive, and couldn't turn vehicle off, because if so, truck wouldn't start back up until cool. After getting to my destination, fans seemed very loud every time I pressed pedal, and seemed very sluggish. Drove it a couple days and boost was low and fans continued to sound like they werre engaging even when I first started truck for the day. Had truck towed to shop, because it cut off on me when driving.

At shop:
Truck had air filter, water in fuel sensor, o-ring for draing plug, new ICP sensor and harness, and HFCM cleaned up as it was filled with gunk.

After shop:
Fans quit being so loud, but have not had near the boost I had before issues started. Truck struggles to go from stop, and around 15 psi boost gauge starts shaking erratically. Also, I have been losing coolant in a short period of time, and can't see any leak coming from anywhere, and also my radiator has been making a sloshing/gurgling noise and it will stop, then come back all within bout ten seconds. And I guess while I'm writing, I should mention the bucking after it downshifts in about third or fourth gear giving it gas makes the truck buck until the RPMs are above 2000 or it upshifts or downshifts, and at an idle seems to miss until warm. Can someone please help me figure this crap out, the truck is starting to irritate me to no end.

I would really appreciate any responses, and thank you in advance.

 

What codes are set? Need to check base fuel pressure under load.

 

Truck isn't throwing any codes. And just a simple fuel pressure test to be done? Another side note, truck idles rough, but when AC is turned on (mainly keep off and roll windows down) truck runs even worse. I mean it runs like ****, so I usually keep it off.

 

Sounds like you have a Multitude of things going on here, First of all what are you using for a Gauge ? , the Dash Gauges are useless and should only watch Fuel , well and maybe a wrench light. the light don't have to be on to set a Code. Have you tried cleaning up the MAP nipple into the Manifold? also EBP and Tube make sure all CAC Boots are not leaking . next you said your loosing Coolant, park the truck nose down hill then pull the EGR Valve, were looking for coolant sitting down into the Port, now while the Valve is out if all coked up clean it , Try not getting carb cleaner into the Electrical hole's under the Gasket, I usually wrap a sock or grease rag around it. Oh and ware your safety that stuff Burns like . try doing these one at a time so you know what was the Issue or we will go to Plan B P.S when you disconnect these sensors and Valves you will set a Code, so fordman is right need to start by seeing if one is already there

 

Agree on the multitude of issues for sure! I would also include that your head gaskets are probably toast.

Pull the oil filter and see if any internal plastic components are deformed from heat.

You need to get an electronic gauge setup and monitor temps - primarily to determine the health of the cooling system and the oil cooler.

 

I only have one aftermarket gauge, and it's for the boost. Everything else is on the dash. Thanks everyone for the replies, I don't work until later tonight, so I will try and get as much of this stuff looked at today as possible.

 

might want to check for plugged cats, that may cause a low boost and run sluggish, will also cause extreme heat, boiling coolant, and possibly even head gasket and Egr failure.
check for coolant around the cap to see if it building pressure and blowing it out.
inspect antifreeze for oil mixed in.
look at tail pipe while running, look for hazing.
remove oil filler cap, look for excessive blow by,
all these are possible head gasket failure.
hope that's not it.

 

Pulled EGR valve out and cleaned it, it wasn't to bad, but then again it was my first EGR valve that I've pulled and cleaned. Truck ran better, refilled coolant, have been monitoring and so far so good. Haven't seen it disappear yet. Turbo boost seems to have come back to an extent, however turbo makes weird noise, sounds like it's going in and out. Degas cap (immediately after turn off) sounds like it is hissing? Could the cap be bad, causing coolant to disappear slowly? Also, another side note, after disconnecting EGR valve, no code was thrown, (and yes light from check engine light is still in there.) What is the next step?? Still sometimes cuts in and out and like I said, turbo is going in and out it sounds like.

 

And also!!!! Still experiencing bucking when truck drops into overdrive at cruising speeds.

 

You should not notice a turbo going in and out. The turbo ring can be sticking but isn't really that noticeable. You can pull the solenoid and manually test it to see if the ring is sticking. I would just pull the turbo and clean it . Watch a few youtube videos on turbo cleaning, its easy. Yes, the degas caps do go bad and they are not expensive. The coolant should only be added to the lowest cold mark on the degas bottle.
We need more system readings to help you diagnose any sensor or ficm problems.

 

Cory, there are a lot of good folks here that can help you pin point your issue. In order for that to happen you need OBDII gauges. If you don't it's all guess work and throwing parts at it. We can all help you spend money on parts if you like!

A few options- Scan Gauge II, Forscan, Torque App, and Dashboss.

 

I fixed a truck in the parking lot at work the other day with similar symptoms. Someone had been working on it and had the vacuum hoses to the heater control valve and map sensor mixed up. Took like a minute to see it but swapped it around and it ran good. I was a wizard! (For a few minutes-lol) anyway, worth a look.

Hissing degas cap, I'd buy a new one, less than $10. If the new one hisses you have a failed EGR cooler or headgaskets as bismic mentioned earlier.

 

Checked codes today, had a stored one. P0821? Cylinder 7 contribution/balance. That would explain the rough idle and loss of power I've been experiencing. But what now?

 

The PCM is pretty good at pointing out bad injectors, so you probably need one.
an unbalanced contribution test would be best.
injectors are not terribly hard to replace.
you want to buy a Ford reman.

But still, in your situation i think you need to spend a couple hours reading through the tech folder so you can make sure your truck is up to snuff.
regular and meticulous maintenance is key with the 6.0
like said above, OBDII gauges are a MUST!

 

You need to check fuel pressure. Buy a gauge as harbor freight. Injector 7 is most sensitive to low fuel pressure. These engine will run on next to no fuel pressure. There is a updated regulator kit called the blue spring kit. Fuel pressure should never fall below 45 psi while driving and any load condition. A missing hole will effect boost. Fix injector 7 and verify fuel pressure. Non oem fuel filters can damage injectors also.